I thought the same thing with mine, but they sit up way higher in person! looks good!
WK2 Grand Cherokee leveling kit install (Rocky Road Outfitters)
- Thread starter McCannUSA
- Start date
Couple of things to look at here - I would make sure everything is torqued to a factory spec, just re-look at all of your fasteners - specifically the control arms.
I also know that a lot of Jeep generations (not sure about the WK2, but even the WK had it) had issues with their steering racks after alignment. I could be way off topic here, but check this link: pretty good explanation for a guy who was having the same issues. https://www.theultimatejeep.com/showthread.php?2235-Steering-Rack-Yoke-Adjustment-(Solve-popping-noise) Let me know how it all goes. Hey, at least it looks sick!
Advocate III
The clunking sound ended up being the sway bar end link being a little loose. I snugged it up tight and no more sound! The ESC fault light turned off after my alignment. Turns out there's a sensor in the steering system that talks to the ESC module. If the module seeing that the tires are both spinning at the same speed (ie the car is moving straight), but the steering wheel is turned, then it throws a fault. Once aligned, I drove about a half mile and the light turned off. We couldn't get the caster in spec though and the adjustment is maxed out.
But now a new problem has arised! When turning sharply in reverse, there's a very loud popping sound. It's not very fast, I'd say one pop per tire rev. Almost like it's in 4lo and I'm turning hard on concrete. Any thoughts on that one?
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But now a new problem has arised! When turning sharply in reverse, there's a very loud popping sound. It's not very fast, I'd say one pop per tire rev. Almost like it's in 4lo and I'm turning hard on concrete. Any thoughts on that one?
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Advocate III
So I just took a look at the front under full lock. Looks like the clamp that holds the boot on the cv shaft touches the fork of the strut! Man it's just one thing after another with this lift lol
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It’ll be worth it - persevere! As for the popping, I can’t say for sure BUT I do know that it’s another relatively common thing for Jeep owners with lifts. Some people report that it’s an issue with the track bar, while others find loose bolts in the control arms or the mounting bolts to the frame. I would try putting it at full lock and checking all (ALL of ‘em, unfortunately). Occasionally, some shake a little loose from time to time.
As for the boot on the CV shaft, I wouldn’t imagine that’s a big deal as long as you keep an eye on it for wear. It’s not like it’s hitting a part that rotates a ton, so maybe throw a little grease on it just to cut any friction from the rub/contact? As for the clamp, I’m not sure. If you get a picture could you shoot it over? If not, I know you have other stuff to deal with. Calling a suspension shop that does Jeeps may help as well as putting it on JeepForum. Far smarter people than I on those things. Let me know! Good luck.
Advocate III
Oh boy do I have some updates! So the popping noise was the small clamp that holds the CV boot to the shaft tapping on the fork of the strut. When it got eventually knocked off of the boot, the boot slid forward and got trapped between the spinning axle and the stationary strut and ripped it good! I've now got a decent coating of underbody rust protection in the form of axle grease on the passenger side wheel well. I thought I'd take a chance and call the dealership to see if by chance this would be covered under warranty, and they said more than likely they could work with it. Fast forward a couple of days and I get a phone call from the dealer saying that my struts were swapped left to right! I'm guessing that when the strut bolts were being cut on, they got mixed up before being reinstalled and caused a mess of issues. So we swapped them back and the dealer installed a new axle under warranty with zero issues. I just got the car back yesterday night and man is the ride so much better now. The tires no longer rub because the hub is sitting in the right place, the suspension seems a little softer, and the whole front end sits up another 3/4" higher it seems.
Moral of the story: MAKE SURE THE PARTS DON'T HAVE A LEFT AND A RIGHT.
I don’t even know where to start with that hahaha. Do you have any idea how that happened? I’m glad it all worked out, I would’ve needed a much more intelligent friend than I to even consider that swap as an option.
Advocate III
I'm sure it happened during the cutting of the top strut studs since that was the only time they were near each other during the install. We used a lift so we were able to have both sides completely torn down at the same time. After looking at them side by side, it was pretty obvious that there was a left and a right, but it wasn't something I had considered with them on the vehicle lol
I was digging catching up on this thread and couldn't help myself. Below are a couple of pics of my WK2 with the RRO lift on 33X12.50R20s with 1.75" spacers. The lift has over 100K miles on it with the factory coilovers and still rides like it did the day I did the install.
Note - the rig is loaded down pretty good in the pics.
Note - the rig is loaded down pretty good in the pics.
Attachments
I know im dragging up an old post. Anyone using this kit running 275/60r20? I just ordered the kit and thats the size Id like to run....just cant find any real info if they will fit.
Im running the factory 20"s, im not opposed to spacers but Im not getting rid of my wheels, i like them! lol
Im running the factory 20"s, im not opposed to spacers but Im not getting rid of my wheels, i like them! lol
I went with Atturo MT2s - 33X12.50R20
Hard to say. The factory wheels have terrible back spacing, although that is a very skinny tire. I may be able to get it to work, but if you need spacers, 1.25" may be fine.
