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Flipper

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So we are talking about this correct? Or did I just muck up the understanding even more?
Yes just connect the red “ham” wire right on top of the main red wire with the nut on it , then you will eliminate the extra in line fuse. The red Icom harness wire
 

Flipper

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While I know the answer to this is "Depends" is a 100a breaker fine for the use case in my last diagram. I actually will be only having HAM, maybe FRS, very maybe a 12v lead to my GoalZero on the cab fuse block, and maybe a compressor on the underhood block, maybe 6-8 offroad lights.
You can find the amp/ wire ga chart on Blue Seas Systems web site
 

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Yes just connect the red “ham” wire right on top of the main red wire with the nut on it , then you will eliminate the extra in line fuse. The red Icom harness wire
Oh! I see the input on the bluesea box, kept thinking we were going back and forth between run a wire to the breaker or run 2 to the breaker (one for HAM). lol Got it!
 
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slomatt

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While I know the answer to this is "Depends" is a 100a breaker fine for the use case in my last diagram. I actually will be only having HAM, maybe FRS, very maybe a 12v lead to my GoalZero on the cab fuse block, and maybe a compressor on the underhood block, maybe 6-8 offroad lights.
100A is a reasonably large amount of current, and you'd likely need to run 4awg wire (check the charts). In fact, I have this exact setup in my Tacoma (picture below). In my case the large breaker was because I have an ARB dual compressor that draws a lot of current.

If you can find the current draw for each of your loads and then add up all the ones you expect to have on at one time, and then add some overhead, you can determine roughly what size breaker you need. And based on the breaker size you can determine the necessary wire gauge.

 
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educky

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You are going to save me a lot of time as I want to do almost same. Could you post part numbers for the BlueSea stuff.
Also, should you have another breaker at the second aux fuse box just “in case”
100amp Breaker
6 Circuit Fuse Block with Cover and Negative
12 Curcuit Fuse Block with Cover and Negative
Northstar NSB-AGM 94R/L4

Thus Far. I'm not an expert as you can see my post, but you could have a 2nd breaker on the 2nd fuse block to seperate things more, but I think I will not... at least initially. I'm not even sure I'll have the 12 circuit under the hood, because the only things I can think of running off it, are lights and compressor, since winch will be directly to battery (If I get one) and then I could get away with a smaller block to save room. I'm not sure... my main concern is getting the HAM going 1st.
 

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Here's the altered plan.
What size circuit breaker are you going to use? I ask because the wires from the battery to the breaker and from the breaker to each fuse block should all be large enough AWG to carry the maximum current allowed by the breaker. In your diagram you show 6 AWG to each fuse block which means your breaker would have to be sized lower than the max current capacity of that wire size. In fact, there's no point in running a larger wire from the battery to the breaker since you are limited by your wire size from the breaker to the fuse blocks.

For example, based on the above chart and assuming short (0-6ft) runs 6AWG is recommended for up to 70A and 4AWG for up to 100A. If you use 6AWG to the fuse blocks you would need to use a breaker rated at 70A or less, which means you don't need to use 4AWG between the breaker and the battery since you can't draw more than what the breaker is rated for.
 
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Michael

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Yup - to right size this - with 100A breaker - you want to increase battery and ground wire to 4GA.

Disclaimer - I am NOT and electrical engineer :)
 
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educky

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Opps, yea 100a Breaker... so I should run 4AWG from the Batt to Breaker and 4 from the breaker to both of the fuse boxes?
 

slomatt

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Opps, yea 100a Breaker... so I should run 4AWG from the Batt to Breaker and 4 from the breaker to both of the fuse boxes?
Based on the chart 100A is at the high end of what 4AWG can support for short wire lengths, but should be fine. It sounds like you already have wire of that size, which is great, so I'd recommend going with either an 80A or 100A breaker depending on how much power you need. The picture in post #25 of this thread actually shows 4AWG wire and a 100A breaker.

Keep in mind that the breaker should be mounted as close to the positive terminal of the battery as possible to minimize the length of unprotected wire (between the battery and the breaker). In fact, you can get breakers that mount directly to the battery post as shown in post #9.
 
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M Rose

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Oh nevermind! I found a bunch of 4 AWG cable laying around.
This diagram is exactly how I wired mine up... ran a simple dedicated power wire from the Circuit Breaker to the In Cab Fuse Box, then attached my 2m rig to the Fuse Box Input with the supplies fused harness.

My Fuse box is a little more complex than your since it houses relays as well as fuses, but Sam general concept...
 
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educky

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Based on the chart 100A is at the high end of what 4AWG can support for short wire lengths, but should be fine. It sounds like you already have wire of that size, which is great, so I'd recommend going with either an 80A or 100A breaker depending on how much power you need. The picture in post #25 of this thread actually shows 4AWG wire and a 100A breaker.

Keep in mind that the breaker should be mounted as close to the positive terminal of the battery as possible to minimize the length of unprotected wire (between the battery and the breaker). In fact, you can get breakers that mount directly to the battery post as shown in post #9.
Got a short cable for that reason for the breaker, I just hope my 4AWG is long enough to reach where I want to mount the in - cab box.

Really not going to run that much from that box anyway, it was mainly to run cables for my HAM, but then I'm like why do i need to run more later if I add more in-cab? Just put a box in.. then morphed (as projects do) to... oh well you should be wiring directly to the battery... then the ground loop sensor... then yea well you see this thread its been... we will say "Evolving"
 

educky

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This diagram is exactly how I wired mine up... ran a simple dedicated power wire from the Circuit Breaker to the Incan Fuse Box, then attached my 2m rig to the Fuse Box Input with the supplies fused harness.

My Fuse box is a little more complex than your since it houses relays as well as fuses, but Sam general concept...
The fuse box under the hood, when I add it to this will likely be the same, I have relays for my old lightforce offroad lights, just not sure if I am going to use them, or buy newer LED style offroad lights. Thats... down the road, I really need to get my HAM installed though.
 
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