Who has their anti-sway bars removed?

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Lindenwood

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One of the often-overlooked aspects of both ride confort and offroad capability is the anti-sway bar (ASB). People often generalize ASBs as only affecting offroad capability at maximum flex, and not affecting on-road comfort at all.

However, when only one side of the axle goes over a bump, the ASB will add a substantial amount of stiffness to the overall suspension's compliance. On my 2002 4Runner, the ASB actually more than doubled the effective spring rate in that corner. On my new 2019 F250 the front ASB (there is not one on the rear) adds about 35% more resistance to the effective spring rate on that corner.

So, even driving down the road, a pothole or even just a moderate bump on one side faces a suspension reaction force that is substantially greater than just the suspension's weight-bearing springs alone.

More specifically, say you have an everyday suspension setup where the spring's effective rate at the tire is 250lb/in--an extra 250lb of force to achieve every additional inch of compression. This same vehicle has an ASB on each axle that also has an effective 250lb/in spring rate at the tire. So, you go over a bump on one side, and compress the suspension 2". Without an ASB, that one side compresses, and the other side droops to compensate. With an ASB, on the other hand, the suspension is bound so that the bumped tire only rises 1" relative to the fra.e, and the same force that would have compressed it by the additional 1" actually lifts the opposite tire by 1". Of course, the tire doesnt actually lift off the ground--rather, the body moves to compensate. Not only does this actually result in the whole body moving more (because that transfer of force to the other tire occured through the frame / body), but the opposite tire has 250lb less downward force. If there is nornally 1250lbs of weight on the tire (in a 5000lb vehicle with perfect weight distribution), that is a momentary 20% reduction in traction for that axle if it doesnt have a fully-locked differential.

Ultimately, in the 4Runner, in my pursuit of a more compliant ride off road, I started by reducing the spring rates both front and rear by about 20% over my previous upgrades. I still wanted more so I decided to disconnect the front ASB just to test (the rear bar was already gone). Honestly, whatever improvement I saw with the new springs was doubled after removing the ASB. It flexed extremely well, and was so smooth even over very rough terrain that my baby would literally nap in his carseat while I was out wheeling aggressively enough to warrant an inclinometer. Moreover, it contributed to me making climbs that stumped several open/open Jeeps.

Having this experience in mind, I have had the ASB on my F250 disconnected since a couple days after I got it (after my first try on some very mild trails and forest roads). Of course, it still rides quite rough offroad compared to the 4Runner it replaced (until I get to my planned suspension and tire upgrades). But, before removing the ASB, the ride was about like what I'd expect in a Sherman Tank.

So, what about safety? Long story short, after a good bit of math, I determineed that my 3rd gen 4Runner was, at maximum, 3.7% more likely to roll over after disconnecting the ASBs.

On the F250, the front bar is a less substantial part of the suspension. For example, even without the bar, it has less body roll than my 4Runner did WITH the bar. Thus, the numbers make sense that this truck is only 1.44% more likely to rollover now, and will be 1.89% more likely to roll over after lifting it (with the lift height being partially offset by a wider track), if I keep the bar off. After seeing these numbers, I removed the bar today.

Obviously the formulae arent visible, but this is the spreadsheet I built to help me calculate it this time. I did it more for fun, as I did all my 4Runner's math on paper. But, this will make it easier to account for different variables (different wheel offsets, more or less lift, etc).
Screenshot_20190114-022503_OfficeSuite.jpg
 
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SomeGuyNamedPaul

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That’s super interesting. Thank you for the write up. I’ve been wondering about sway bar disconnects. I’ve heard that term knocked about but don’t know much about it. My Honda Pilot is not your normal overlanding rig so bolt-on parts kits are not normal as well. The suspension is very stiff so disconnecting sway bars seems like a great option.
 

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I took mine all the way off, but planning on making some longer ones that are quick disconnect for when I tow my trailer then got ride trails. 05 Sequoia, rear spring rate is currently 220lbs on OME 2860 springs with OME nitrochargers 60071L shocks
 

A-Aron

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I took mine all the way off, but planning on making some longer ones that are quick disconnect for when I tow my trailer then got ride trails. 05 Sequoia, rear spring rate is currently 220lbs on OME 2860 springs with OME nitrochargers 60071L shocks
Gained several inches of flex, minimal increase in body roll, and a smoother more comfortable ride!
 

Lindenwood

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That’s super interesting. Thank you for the write up. I’ve been wondering about sway bar disconnects. I’ve heard that term knocked about but don’t know much about it. My Honda Pilot is not your normal overlanding rig so bolt-on parts kits are not normal as well. The suspension is very stiff so disconnecting sway bars seems like a great option.
It wouldnt hurt to try! Be careful, though; on some vehicles, just removing the end links may not be enough to prevent physical interference with the bar's arms under large swaths of suspension movement.

Oh, FWIW, we bought this F250 with plans of full-timing in an Airstream. So, there is a decent chance I will re-mount it for towing. I have actually been pondering a way to cut the bar through the middle, and build a coupler that can be manually connected and disconnected. Most electronically-"disconnecting" sway bars work like this--the links stay connected, but the bar itself is temporarily split in the center for the same effect. Think of it like the slip-yoke of a driveshaft being pulled out, or the Automatic Disconnecting Driveshaft on the front of 4x4 Toyotas.

Finally, two things:

1) It's funny, the planned lift and weight-adding mods will cause a much more significant increase in roll probability than simply removing the ASB (a 14% increase,vs <2%). You'll note toward the top of the chart that my "Static Stability Factor" goes from 1.13 down to .97 (which is technically about what the worst SUVs of the 90s had). Static Stability Factor is found by simply dividing half the track width by the measured height of the Center of Gravity.

2) According to the NHTSA (who also produces that Static Stability Factor number), 95% of vehicle rollovers are caused by "tripping." That is, the vehicle slides sideways into a curb or soft ground, which forces the vehicle to roll over if it has enough momentum. Only 5% of rollovers occur without any tripping--in other words by the mere traction of the tires. I would hazard a guess that under-inflated tires (for the type of driving) are probably a factor in a significant portion of these relative few non-tripped rollover events.

I say this becauseI forgot to add one safety caveat: removing a front ASB does make a vehicle a little more prone to oversteer in aggressuve manuevers. Yes, racers do generally prefer an oversteering tendency over an understeering tendency, as it is easier to predict, detect, and correct. However, oversteering gets the vehicle sideways relative to its direction of motion which, on a taller vehicle, does make it more prone to rolling laterally.

Of note, NHTSA data also show that 4-wheel anti-lock brakes almost guarantee yaw remains below 10 degrees under emergency braking. So, if you find yourself really needing to swerve on the highway, getting on the brakes should actually help prevent oversteer :).
 
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The other Sean

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I run my Truck without sway bars, but.....

My truck has many suspension modifications and isn't just a spacer and AAL lift.

I've "Titan swapped" the front suspension so I'm running Nissan Titan Upper and lower control arms on my Frontier which are 3" wider per side. My upper control arms are SPC brand with are cast steel and have polyurethane bushings. I run 1st gen Toyota Tundra Bilstien 5100's, 4runner springs and a shock travel correcting top shock mount so I have increased front wheel travel from the OEM 5.625" to 9.75". The truck is only lifted about 2.5". I also run Rock sliders which I have noticed stiffen up the chassis ( I had them off last spring to strip and repaint and noticed the truck handled differently)

Due to the wider wheel track, Poly control arm bushings, correct alignment and stiff chassis, the truck corners great and the ride is smooth and compliant. The truck does lean a bit, but it's not spooky at all.

Would I run no sway bars on a stock or spacer lifted IFS truck? Probably not.

Do I want to maybe run a front sway bar when I'm fully loaded and headed on a multi state trip up and down the mountains? sure.
 

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I posted in another group elsewhere online.. but basically... no safety feature is more important than knowing how your rig performs and having enough practice in all driving situations to know how it will react. If you make modifications to your vehicle.. make sure you are 100% comfortable with how it performs in environments you drive before you're in a situation you have to "react" instead of "respond." This goes for ALL that may drive the vehicle at any given time. If you must allow someone else to drive, it is your responsibility to educate and inform them of the modifications and how they impact the drive-ability of the vehicle. My wife and I are designated drivers of our rig.. exclusively.. she gets plenty of wheel time so she can be comfortable and familiar with its capabilities and restrictions. That being said.. running without sway bars or extended links can significantly increase your vehicle's off road performance and comfort. The recommended and generally accepted method is to get dis connectable links for trail running, reconnect for normal driving. As disconnects are not available for all vehicles... this may not be an option for some. Stiffer springs and higher performance shocks/struts can help compensate for body roll and stability if done correctly. I second @The other Sean I would not disconnect my swaybars for on-road travel when using stock suspension components, especially when lifted.. manufacturers use the swaybars as part of the calculations for load handling when designing vehicles and can cause major safety concerns when disconnected using OEM suspension components. Happy Travels!
 

The other Sean

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@A-Aron is correct.

I'd also like to add that my truck with the current suspension and no sway bars handles curves and turns better and more predictably than the truck did with sway bars and the spacer lift. I was never able to get my camber correct ( stuck with too much positive camber) so, the front always pushed WAY too easily. So, again, it's not just a sway bars or not question/answer.
 

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I removed my ASB on my Tacoma and haven't looked back. I did notice the body roll was a little more around of camber curves at higher speeds (55+), but the overall ride became so much nicer. I definitely would not go back to having them on. I don't drive overly spirited so I'm not too concerned about the body roll aspect.
 

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I’m interested in installing ASB quick disconnects. Do you all have any recommendations, or brand recommendations? I have an OME suspension system on my 2012 4Runner SR5, and heavy springs up front due the ARB bull bar.
 

Lindenwood

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Id be fine with anything that bolted on and was produced by a genuine company (i.e avoid random ebay stuff).
 
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HomeBrew82

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Sounds good. I was leaning that way. I’m not one to unnecessarily take a risk with random applications and waste time and effort. I haven’t looked into the details, but seems pretty straight forward. The only thing I’d be concerned about is not buying the right solution. I’ll get to researching...
 

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I talked with a mechanic today who told me QD sway bar links often rattle and make noise while connected. Has anyone experienced this?
 

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I removed the rear sway bar on my '98 4Runner. It flexes so much better now. No rear sway bar and a rear locker are such a great combination. I do plan on taking the front sway bar off when I install my new front shocks.
 

Lindenwood

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I talked with a mechanic today who told me QD sway bar links often rattle and make noise while connected. Has anyone experienced this?
The problem, unfortunately, is that the tighter the tolerances, the harder it is to disconnect and especially reconnect them. So, some play is necessary, which can result in extra rattles and clunks even if those rattles amd clunks are not actually indicating any pending issues.
 
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SomeGuyNamedPaul

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The problem, unfortunately, is that the tighter the tolerances, the harder it is to disconnect and especially reconnect them. So, some play is necessary, which can result in extra rattles and clunks even if those rattles amd clunks are not actually indicating any pending issues.
Sounds like a minor nuisance as long as it’s expected. As much as I hear about disconnects, no one has mentioned an insanely annoying noise. I guess the only way to know how it will effect me (or wife) for sure is to try it out.
 

Lindenwood

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Yeah. Honestly, they arent that terribly common, and most folks who use them are hardcore enough that their rigs are usually a little rattly to begin with P .
 
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Nickzero

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I've been riding around for the last 25k miles without my front sway bar on my jku. Been to wv back down to FL in one piece. I'd say do it if you are comfortable with a bit more sway up front. Feel it out first.
 
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ABTK01

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On a recent outing I had issues that would have been avoided or minimized without my rear ASB. I was anxious to disconnect my rear ASB. However, thanks to this community I didn't act in haste. Member A-Aron is VERY knowledgeable.
I've decided to slip along down the trails with my ASB intact until I upgrade my suspension....Time to start saving again for the next upgrade...so off to work I go.
I'm open to any and all suggestions that will keep my back tires on the ground.

2004 Toyota Sequoia SR5 4WD.
Mods:
Leveling kit (3” front, 1” back).
Firestone Air Bags inside the rear coils (for heavy trailering purposes)
Dif Drop kit.
Slotted brake rotors and ceramic pads.
Moog lower control arms
Spidertrax 1.25” Wheel spacers
Swapped original 16” Sequoia Rims for FJ Cruiser 17” Rims
BFG K02, 285 70 R17
Stubbs Welding Rock Sliders
 

Lindenwood

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In most vehicles, the front ASB is significantly stouter than the rear. This is because keeping the front suspension stiffer is safer when braking and cornering in order to minimize oversteer.

In my 4Runner, the front ASB was about 4x stiffer than the rear. In my 2019 F250, there is no rear ASB except when you get the "camper" package.

Without knowing its dimensions, I'd imagine removing the rear ASB wouldnt have a significant impact on handling. Though, removing the front ASB would actually likely allow the body to flex with the rear suspension a little better.
 
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