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Lanlubber In Remembrance

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Jim
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covey sr
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tjZ06

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I smell a lot of work and money to get those monsters to fit. Patagonia is a good tire and priced great. I'm surprised at the LT rating though ? I'm anxious to see it with the tires installed.
Yeah, those are ~35"s (315/75-16) which is a pretty known commodity for WJs. I'm on a 4.5" lift now, but will be moving to 6-6.5". I'm going to an aftermarket rear bumper, but the fenders/body and front bumper will be more trimming... sort of like this:
fenderrender.jpg

Try to picture that, but the body will be 1.5-2" higher too. Also, the angle of the pics makes it look worse than it is. Since the tires are just sitting next to the Jeep, and I'm standing between them, the pic makes the front and rear bumper situation look WAY worse. Here's a different angle to get some perspective:
IMG_20200407_094105.jpg

But yes, some $ involved for sure. I'm swapping lifts, going to JK Rubicon axles (that will get geared/sleeved/trussed and setup w/ WJ brackets), t-case swap, etc. etc.

-TJ
 

Lanlubber In Remembrance

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,827
Mimbres, NM, USA
First Name
Jim
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covey sr
Member #

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Ham/GMRS Callsign
none - BREAKER BREAKER HAND HELD CB AND WALKIE TALKIE
Yeah, those are ~35"s (315/75-16) which is a pretty known commodity for WJs. I'm on a 4.5" lift now, but will be moving to 6-6.5". I'm going to an aftermarket rear bumper, but the fenders/body and front bumper will be more trimming... sort of like this:
View attachment 148124

Try to picture that, but the body will be 1.5-2" higher too. Also, the angle of the pics makes it look worse than it is. Since the tires are just sitting next to the Jeep, and I'm standing between them, the pic makes the front and rear bumper situation look WAY worse. Here's a different angle to get some perspective:
View attachment 148125

But yes, some $ involved for sure. I'm swapping lifts, going to JK Rubicon axles (that will get geared/sleeved/trussed and setup w/ WJ brackets), t-case swap, etc. etc.

-TJ
Will it still be a daily driver or is that out ? It's gonna be nice I think !
 

Lanlubber In Remembrance

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Member III

2,827
Mimbres, NM, USA
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Jim
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covey sr
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Getting parts together for a dual battery mod, battery tray, isolator, fuses, etc.
Be sure to let us know what you buy for your set up. Will you be wiring in conjunction with your car battery or will they be separate systems and unconnected ?
 

RoarinRow

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Be sure to let us know what you buy for your set up. Will you be wiring in conjunction with your car battery or will they be separate systems and unconnected ?
Hi Jim, nothing fancy just will be using a smart battery isolator. From everything I've seen the installation seems pretty straight forward. My Silverado has an empty space specifically for a second battery. I better fill it up lol.
 

Lanlubber In Remembrance

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Jim
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Hi Jim, nothing fancy just will be using a smart battery isolator. From everything I've seen the installation seems pretty straight forward. My Silverado has an empty space specifically for a second battery. I better fill it up lol.
Your one up on me , it takes a smart person to know about smart insulators. My Land Rover Discovery 2 has me baffled. I'm scared to touch the electrical system. every time I mess with it I seem to throw off the computers.

Example: I tried to move the rig two days ago. The electronic key would not allow me to turn the key on. I push the button to unlock the door (it was already open) to unlock the ignition but it didn't work. Even the red warning light didn't flash in the key. I went to town and bought a new battery for the key after reading my manual that said the should be replaced every two years. I put the battery in the key and again tried to start the car. This time it unlocked the ignition but would not engage the starter. Similar to a dead car battery.

This happened to me once before about 8 months ago and I thought I had a dead battery. I removed the battery and charged it over night. I put it in the next morning and it still didn't start the engine. I read the manual again and it said to install a battery I should connect the positive on the battery first then the negative. I knew I had not done it that way so I took off both cables and re-installed the the positive cable first and then the negative.

Wallah it worked and the engine started. I think that is what I need to do this time with the key having a new battery, it probably needs to have the cables removed and then re-installed correctly. I'm not that sure about it but I will try again today if I can walk that far to the rig and give it a try. Some days I can hobble a hundred feet of more and other days I cant.

That gets me back to the battery insulator switch. If I put it on I'll bet the computer will be confused again and think a thief is trying to bypass something and shut the whole system down again. I dont like electronics, especially the computer electronics. I am a dummy. :-(
 

the_rockies

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just finished building a custom sliding drawer system for my truck bed and now I'm waiting for my new wheels to arrive
 

Relic6.3

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just finished building a custom sliding drawer system for my truck bed and now I'm waiting for my new wheels to arrive
Pictures or it didn't happen. :laughing: No, really... have you posted pictures of your drawer system somewhere else? I'd like to see what you did for a future built on my truck.
 

RoarinRow

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Your one up on me , it takes a smart person to know about smart insulators. My Land Rover Discovery 2 has me baffled. I'm scared to touch the electrical system. every time I mess with it I seem to throw off the computers.

Example: I tried to move the rig two days ago. The electronic key would not allow me to turn the key on. I push the button to unlock the door (it was already open) to unlock the ignition but it didn't work. Even the red warning light didn't flash in the key. I went to town and bought a new battery for the key after reading my manual that said the should be replaced every two years. I put the battery in the key and again tried to start the car. This time it unlocked the ignition but would not engage the starter. Similar to a dead car battery.

This happened to me once before about 8 months ago and I thought I had a dead battery. I removed the battery and charged it over night. I put it in the next morning and it still didn't start the engine. I read the manual again and it said to install a battery I should connect the positive on the battery first then the negative. I knew I had not done it that way so I took off both cables and re-installed the the positive cable first and then the negative.

Wallah it worked and the engine started. I think that is what I need to do this time with the key having a new battery, it probably needs to have the cables removed and then re-installed correctly. I'm not that sure about it but I will try again today if I can walk that far to the rig and give it a try. Some days I can hobble a hundred feet of more and other days I cant.

That gets me back to the battery insulator switch. If I put it on I'll bet the computer will be confused again and think a thief is trying to bypass something and shut the whole system down again. I dont like electronics, especially the computer electronics. I am a dummy. :-(
Oh no. Yeah I am usually electrical challenged. Still am, but I watch a lot of YouTube videos to give me the confidence to move forward. Wish me luck!
 

Lanlubber In Remembrance

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Mimbres, NM, USA
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Jim
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covey sr
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Oh no. Yeah I am usually electrical challenged. Still am, but I watch a lot of YouTube videos to give me the confidence to move forward. Wish me luck!
You have it Rolando !

Just checked out my situation. The battery was down to 3.65 a, should be 12.8 a when full charged.
The computer on this thing eats a batter if I don't run the engine at least every two weeks, so maybe that will fix my problem with an overnight battery charge.
 
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RoarinRow

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You have it Rolando !

Just checked out my situation. The battery was down to 3.65 a, should be 12.8 a when full charged.
The computer on this thing eats a batter if I don't run the engine at least every two weeks, so maybe that will fix my problem with an overnight battery charge.
Sounds like need some sort of trickle charger?
 

Sparksalot

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Sounds like need some sort of trickle charger?
When VW started shipping the new Beetle years ago, they included a small solar panel to do just that. It was meant to be plugged into the cigarette lighter when the car was parked for extended periods.
 

Lanlubber In Remembrance

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2,827
Mimbres, NM, USA
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Jim
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covey sr
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When VW started shipping the new Beetle years ago, they included a small solar panel to do just that. It was meant to be plugged into the cigarette lighter when the car was parked for extended periods.
I have one of the small solar chargers I will start using. I think maybe it's time for a battery too. I have no idea how old it is. I will check tomorrow for a date stamp.

I put the battery on a trickle charger at around 3:00 pm and the reading now is up too 12.45 amp, up from the 3.65 amp earlier reading.. I disconnected the charger and will check in the morning to see if there was any amp drop. Thanks for the ideas guys.
 

JDGreens

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Your one up on me , it takes a smart person to know about smart insulators. My Land Rover Discovery 2 has me baffled. I'm scared to touch the electrical system. every time I mess with it I seem to throw off the computers.

Example: I tried to move the rig two days ago. The electronic key would not allow me to turn the key on. I push the button to unlock the door (it was already open) to unlock the ignition but it didn't work. Even the red warning light didn't flash in the key. I went to town and bought a new battery for the key after reading my manual that said the should be replaced every two years. I put the battery in the key and again tried to start the car. This time it unlocked the ignition but would not engage the starter. Similar to a dead car battery.

This happened to me once before about 8 months ago and I thought I had a dead battery. I removed the battery and charged it over night. I put it in the next morning and it still didn't start the engine. I read the manual again and it said to install a battery I should connect the positive on the battery first then the negative. I knew I had not done it that way so I took off both cables and re-installed the the positive cable first and then the negative.

Wallah it worked and the engine started. I think that is what I need to do this time with the key having a new battery, it probably needs to have the cables removed and then re-installed correctly. I'm not that sure about it but I will try again today if I can walk that far to the rig and give it a try. Some days I can hobble a hundred feet of more and other days I cant.

That gets me back to the battery insulator switch. If I put it on I'll bet the computer will be confused again and think a thief is trying to bypass something and shut the whole system down again. I dont like electronics, especially the computer electronics. I am a dummy. :-(
I wanted to like this post, but didn't want you to think I was agreeing with your final comment, but I am with you when it comes to automotive electrical systems I'm out. But it's very interesting what you said about the new systems, we were on a trail a while back and a new Jeep Rubicon was stuck, unable to start his vehicle. When someone said to disconnect the battery and reconnect it and wolla it started right up.

Back on topic, I do a lot of my own fabricating and have been using cut off wheels to do most of my cuts. The next thing I'm planning on buying is a evolution cut off saw. I'm so tired of breathing all the fine metal dust.
 

Lanlubber In Remembrance

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Mimbres, NM, USA
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Jim
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I wanted to like this post, but didn't want you to think I was agreeing with your final comment, but I am with you when it comes to automotive electrical systems I'm out. But it's very interesting what you said about the new systems, we were on a trail a while back and a new Jeep Rubicon was stuck, unable to start his vehicle. When someone said to disconnect the battery and reconnect it and wolla it started right up.

Back on topic, I do a lot of my own fabricating and have been using cut off wheels to do most of my cuts. The next thing I'm planning on buying is a evolution cut off saw. I'm so tired of breathing all the fine metal dust.
I'm not familiar with an Evolution cut off saw but if they are easier than a cut off wheel and dustless you will be way ahead. I have always used my old Sears Dremal with a cut off wheel because I don't have a plasma cutter. Finally they have come out with a fairly inexpensive plasma cutter and if I did as much fabrication as I use too I might consider that since they are so much faster.

My Nilights for my roof rack side lighting came in yesterday. Again I'm not that good with electronics so I will find someone to help on that install. I'm not a light freak but out there in the forest at night setting up camp these lights will do a great job of lighting things up on both sides of the rig. I may buy two more ($25 a pair for the 2"x6" lite) for the rear to use for back up lighting as well as having three sides lit up. Will post pic when I onstall them.
 
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the_rockies

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Off-Road Ranger I

676
Monument, CO, USA
First Name
Evan
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Crocker
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Pictures or it didn't happen. :laughing: No, really... have you posted pictures of your drawer system somewhere else? I'd like to see what you did for a future built on my truck.
Happy to share! it was a bit of a hassle to build because my truck only has a 4ft bed (Explorer Sport Trac) and I changed the plan through every step of the process, but it was totally worth it in the end. If you've got any questions feel free to message me!
 

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[DO]Ron

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Last thing I bought, trailer mirrors (or whatever they are called in english) to look past the travel trailer when it finally gets build after Corona ends.

Next up is probably some small stuff we still need/want. Like an extra water Jerrycan and a power drill extention for the legs :P