What features would you most like to see in an overlanding trailer?

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DMFA

Rank II
Member

Member I

357
Washington
First Name
David
Last Name
Allsup
Member #

31665

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KJ7ZGD
I’m a welder/metal fabricator and want to build myself a small overlanding trailer. I want to keep it simple, yet have some innovative features that most trailers don’t have, but people wish they did. My must haves include a platform for a RTT that is high enough to stand under, a pullout kitchen, fresh water and grey water tanks, gear storage that is water and dust proof. What are features that are must haves for you that just aren’t very common, but you wish you had? Possibly even things that serve double duty?

Cheers!
 

bgenlvtex

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,268
Texas and Alaska
First Name
Bruce
Last Name
Evans
Member #

19382

Independent suspension(preferably air ride) and fully articulated hitch are where I would start.
 

MOAK

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Launch Member

Off-Road Ranger I

2,865
Wherever we park it will be home !!
First Name
Donald
Last Name
Diehl
Member #

0745

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WRPN 506
I built ours to go anywhere our built 80 series can go. It has , more than enough storage, kitchen in the rear, dust proof, waterproof, an rtt 6’ up, 2x2 frame , with heavy duty leaf springs & shackles, 33” rubber matching the tow vehicle, pintle hook, 36 gallon water capacity with a tap for the kitchen and for a hot water shower. It has seen literally thousands of miles of dirt roads and hundreds of miles of technical trails. I’m trying to think of anything I would do differently, but cannot as it took about 8 years of trial & error to get everything dialed in. I’m a strong advocate of leaf springs. We broke one a few years ago. We were able to ratchet strap the axle and hard tailed that side to a campsite about 6 hours away. We located a spring shop 90 miles from camp and swapped them out the next day. Since these photos I’ve added a propane tank on the side and now have full coverage on the fenders. IMG_1727.jpegIMG_1591.jpeg
 

smritte

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,827
Ontario California
First Name
Scott
Last Name
SMR
Member #

8846

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KO6BI
I build mine using as much travel as possible. I could design and build anything and my last two are solid axle leaf. I did this because of ease of repair. In my opinion only one of the independents work properly. My leaf's are about 45" long, KYB gas shock about 8-10 inch of travel and air bags to level it out based on load.
I can run about 45 mph an a moderate dirt road and have (accidentally) caught air. Off set ruts and rocks, the trailer takes them smoothly. I run low tongue weight, center the axle under the box. The axle to tongue match's my vehicle length and width. The trailer follows my track perfectly. My M-100 trailer has seen hard core trails for a couple of decades. The teardrop, moderate trails.

If I was going to do anything trailing arm wise, they would be at least 20" long, coils with poly air bags inside them. Shocks would be as long as possible. On that note, I've been using KYB, early VW bug. My M-100 weighs about 1k loaded and my teardrop about 2k loaded. My long dirt road driving, the teardrop has been overheating the shocks. I need to come up with a larger diameter or possibly a reservoir.

Hitch wise, multiaxis or go home. In my opinion all of the ones on the market have a common flaw. They all spin 360 degrees. The ones I make will only go about 160 degrees. My M-100 on two occasions tried to flip on me. Both times were slow and both times were a fluke. If it did happen on both occasions, I would have been forced to drag the trailer quite a ways before righting it.
 
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