What Did You Do With Your Rig Today?

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Staticline40

Rank V
Launch Member

Member II

2,268
Fort Mill, SC, USA
First Name
Mark
Last Name
Tebo
Member #

12262

Service Branch
US Army Retired
Converted my Starlink to 12 volts.

If you have one of these things I highly recommend converting it to 12 volts, best part is I didn't cut the Dishy cable so I can still use the Starlink Router.

I used this video as a starting point: Starlink 12 volt Conversion

Parts list I used:
Pelican 1170 Case Pelican 1170 on Amazon

DC 12v to 5v USB C converter 12 volt to 5 volt converter Amazon

GL.iNet GL-MT3000 Router Portable Router Amazon

Dishy cable adapter Dishy Cable Adapter Amazon

Wire Connectors Wire Connectors Amazon

Anderson Powerpole Connector Covers Powerpole Covers Amazon

Powerpole Cable Powerpole Cable Amazon

Powerpole Connector Kit Powerpole Connector Kit Amazon

Powerpole Panel Mount Powerpole Panel Mount Amazon

Boondocker IO Dishy Dualie DC Power Supply Dualie Dishy Adapter

Note the lead time on this component can be long. You can substitute it with the two components below:

12 to 48 volt Converter 12 to 48 Volt Converter Amazon

PoE Injector PoE Injector

When I tested the Starlink contraption this weekend, without the Dishy attached it pulls 3 watts or .25 amps. With the Dishy attached and watching a Youtube video it was 41 watts or a little over 3 amps.

You can't see the router in the app, however as soon as I plugged the antenna into the adapter the antenna unstowed and updated. You do have complete control of the Router logging in as Admin etc.


.25 amps with no Dishy

Starlink Test01.jpg

About 3.4 to 3.6 amps with the Dishy and streaming a video

View attachment Starlink Test.MOV
 

PapaDave

Local Expert Northern ID and North East WA
Member

Protector II

8,868
Coeur d'Alene, ID, USA
First Name
Dave
Last Name
Addington
Member #

10123

Ham/GMRS Callsign
KN6BKH
I have an iKamper and had added interior lights and an interior switch a year ago, but it was by the door and by my feet when sleeping. I didn’t like that. So I added new switches, boxes to house them, and wired them in a switch loop so they act like 3 way switches.

So now one switch is by the door and one is by my head. I know I know I’m roughing it here.media.jpgmedia.jpgmedia.jpg
 
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TX95ZJ

Rank I

Enthusiast I

201
Dallas-Fort Worth Metropolitan Area, TX, USA
First Name
Brent
Last Name
RRR
I have an iKamper and had added interior lights and an interior switch a year ago, but it was by the door and by my feet when sleeping. I didn’t like that. So I added new switches, boxes to house them, and wired them in a switch loop so they act like 3 way switches.

So now one switch is by the door and one is by my head. I know I know I’m roughing it here.View attachment 270062
Nice work! What light kit is that? Do you have a writeup of the whole setup?
 

Influencer II

980
South Carolina, USA
First Name
Ryan
Last Name
Haskins
Removed the RTT, the 270 Awning, and the Joolca shower surround. Everything stored away for the winter. Probably won’t camp again till the late spring. It is warm enough in the winter here to do some, but just do t see it happening. If it does, it only takes about 30 minutes to reinstall everything. I am looking for some good quick release mounts for the tent and awnings. Anybody have any suggestions? Had a weird squeak at times. Found that the overland rack had some loose components. Gonna go through and check all connections this week
 

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