Pathfinder I
Pathfinder II
LOL! I learned my lesson years ago w/ overheating Rover engines, though the BMW and Jag base motors are much less finicky than the classic Buick base V8.Today my rover over heated on me for the first time, and I managed to fill it up with drinking water and limp it the 23 miles home with not enough coolant through traffic...
Lesson learned, going to start carrying some gallons of distilled water even for short trips, also maybe time for an engine rebuild at 186,000 miles and 21 years on the original engine
Sent from my Nexus 6P using OB Talk mobile app
It caught me by surprise, the needle has never budged after reaching temp before, so as soon as it started climbing I noticed and didn't let her run any longer. I don't think that the radiator is my issue (Though I will certainly keep it in mind), I believe that the thermostat is the culprit considering I know it hasn't been replaced, the issue started very suddenly, and the upper radiator hose was stiff as a board. so maybe soon I will be posting on this thread about replacing my thermostat!LOL! I learned my lesson years ago w/ overheating Rover engines, though the BMW and Jag base motors are much less finicky than the classic Buick base V8.
Check your rad before anything else. It could probably benefit from a rodding or recore, especially if it's the original rad.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Benefactor
You're a true Landie owner now! Welcome to the club:) I like to carry premixed coolant instead of just distilled water. It will have a higher boiling point than plain water so it won't boil over as fast if the engine gets hotter. Water does have more thermal capacity than straight coolant, but the higher boiling point is more important with these engines. Plus, if you get the undiluted stuff (it's only a buck or two more than the premixed) you'll wind up with double the amount of coolant after you add your own water. If you carry the undiluted bottle in your truck, you may want to write 50/50 (or whatever your mix ratio is) so you don't forget and cut it again with water.Today my rover over heated on me for the first time, and I managed to fill it up with drinking water and limp it the 23 miles home with not enough coolant through traffic...
Lesson learned, going to start carrying some gallons of distilled water even for short trips, also maybe time for an engine rebuild at 186,000 miles and 21 years on the original engine
Sent from my Nexus 6P using OB Talk mobile app
I just went out to take a look, and I don't believe the rover actually had a collent temperature light (at least none comes on with the warning light checks). However if I had to guess I would say it didn't run much past 230*-240* because I check the gauge pretty regularly and it was moving up when I saw it and turned off the truck, so I caught it pretty early. Also, knock on wood, but I don't believe there is any damage to the engine, because it's one of the early 3.9 V8's before they started boring them out farther and stroking them, so they have less issues with slipped liners and the like (part of why I got this over a D2 (no offence intended)). It also ran basically fine on the way back, minus the temperature being higher them normal, but still in the specified range.You're a true Landie owner now! Welcome to the club:) I like to carry premixed coolant instead of just distilled water. It will have a higher boiling point than plain water so it won't boil over as fast if the engine gets hotter. Water does have more thermal capacity than straight coolant, but the higher boiling point is more important with these engines. Plus, if you get the undiluted stuff (it's only a buck or two more than the premixed) you'll wind up with double the amount of coolant after you add your own water. If you carry the undiluted bottle in your truck, you may want to write 50/50 (or whatever your mix ratio is) so you don't forget and cut it again with water.
Do you know how hot it got? I assume the D1 has an overheat light like the D2. The temp needle starts to move from up the 3 o'clock position around 240*F and the light will turn on at 260*F. If the light doesn't go out, you have to use a Testbook/T4 to turn it off and the engine needs major servicing, if it isn't completely toasted.
Pathfinder II
3.9/4.2s can be subject to porosity issues as well, though not as much as 4.6. I've never heard of a 3.5 w/ a slipped sleeve., but my 3.9 dropped the #5 sleeve. I now watch the temp gauge like a hawk. I'm prepared to turn the heater on, then pull over if that needle ever starts to rise above normal...I just went out to take a look, and I don't believe the rover actually had a collent temperature light (at least none comes on with the warning light checks). However if I had to guess I would say it didn't run much past 230*-240* because I check the gauge pretty regularly and it was moving up when I saw it and turned off the truck, so I caught it pretty early. Also, knock on wood, but I don't believe there is any damage to the engine, because it's one of the early 3.9 V8's before they started boring them out farther and stroking them, so they have less issues with slipped liners and the like (part of why I got this over a D2 (no offence intended)). It also ran basically fine on the way back, minus the temperature being higher them normal, but still in the specified range.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using OB Talk mobile app
I'm digging that H1Did some trail exploration with some great folks from T4R.org up in Green Ridge State Forest in western, MD
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Oh yah. That thing is a beast. The owner did it right with the setup. Very purpose built and well maintained.
Contributor III
Got to love fluid changes!Nothing fun all work. Changed the transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, front diff fluid, and got the rear rotors cut due to being slightly warped. Also did the oil change and air filter. Now I'm ready for my snowboarding trip at Wolf Creek resort in Eden, Utah.