Weight distribution (unloaded)

[nuclear_runner]

Okay this might be a bit of a weird one, but here we go... Got a Colorado ZR2 Bison and it is my daily driver (whatever that means these days). Here's how she sits now:

The problem is, when I'm in the truck (6'3" 180 lbs), there's a lot of weight on the drivers side (XL GearPod weighs 50lbs, RTT is 140 lbs, although it's probably split between all 4 wheels to some extent). I notice that the back of my truck bounces from side to side more than normal. I can tell because relative to the cab, the bed of the truck and tent appear to move when going over uneven bumps (imagine the truck rocking from side to side). Even bumps (like a speed bump) don't do this. And when I have a passenger or the trucks loaded with gear, it doesn't happen.

I'm going to put the smaller GearPod and some Rotopax mounts on the empty side, so if I wanted to rearrange the layout, now would be a perfect time. I don't know how big of a deal this really is as the truck still handles really well. Am I overthinking this (a strong, strong possibility) or should I try and improve my weight distribution slight when not loaded for travel?

 

[Boostpowered]

All chevy trucks are known to have the chevy lean slightly to the drivers side. Put your stuff on the passenger side or leave it at home if your not on an adventure.
Rtt is putting a lot of weight up high and rocking the bed at speed, the bed may be coming loose also. my passenger side mounting bolts were loose from factory making my colorados bed rattle.

And if you think that's bad wait till the intermediate steering shaft goes bad and gives you the death wobble and wears out a set of tires. Something I'm waiting on parts in the mail to fix. I do have over 130k on the odometer though

 

[Biker Eagle]

Bilstein 5100's will help with body lean/roll. Chevy stock shocks are notoriously mushy.

 

[trail_runn4r]

Okay this might be a bit of a weird one, but here we go... Got a Colorado ZR2 Bison and it is my daily driver (whatever that means these days). Here's how she sits now:
View attachment 214650
The problem is, when I'm in the truck (6'3" 180 lbs), there's a lot of weight on the drivers side (XL GearPod weighs 50lbs, RTT is 140 lbs, although it's probably split between all 4 wheels to some extent). I notice that the back of my truck bounces from side to side more than normal. I can tell because relative to the cab, the bed of the truck and tent appear to move when going over uneven bumps (imagine the truck rocking from side to side). Even bumps (like a speed bump) don't do this. And when I have a passenger or the trucks loaded with gear, it doesn't happen.

I'm going to put the smaller GearPod and some Rotopax mounts on the empty side, so if I wanted to rearrange the layout, now would be a perfect time. I don't know how big of a deal this really is as the truck still handles really well. Am I overthinking this (a strong, strong possibility) or should I try and improve my weight distribution slight when not loaded for travel?

You can also add a small spacer on the driver side to correct the lean. The RTT looks really high up so for sure that contributes to the side to side bounce. I have seen many building a pulley in the garage for the RTT for when not in use.

 

[nuclear_runner]

All chevy trucks are known to have the chevy lean slightly to the drivers side. Put your stuff on the passenger side or leave it at home if your not on an adventure.
Rtt is putting a lot of weight up high and rocking the bed at speed, the bed may be coming loose also. my passenger side mounting bolts were loose from factory making my colorados bed rattle.

And if you think that's bad wait till the intermediate steering shaft goes bad and gives you the death wobble and wears out a set of tires. Something I'm waiting on parts in the mail to fix. I do have over 130k on the odometer though

I don't THINK it's a problem. Bed seems pretty sturdy and when I grab the rack/tent and yank hard the shocks bounce/no movement in the bed.

Bilstein 5100's will help with body lean/roll. Chevy stock shocks are notoriously mushy.

I'm trying to keep it as keep her as stock as reasonably achievable but maybe when the stock shocks go/warrenty runs out...

You can also add a small spacer on the driver side to correct the lean. The RTT looks really high up so for sure that contributes to the side to side bounce. I have seen many building a pulley in the garage for the RTT for when not in use.

RTT stays on until I get a bigger garage. Current garage is not even tall enough to fit the truck with RTT. I use the tent pretty frequently even in the winter months so leaving it on makes a lot of sense...

 

[smritte]

I'm trying to keep it as keep her as stock as reasonably achievable but maybe when the stock shocks go/warrenty runs out...

Don't forget, your shocks were never designed for what you built the vehicle for. Shock upgrade should be a priority.

Shocks tend to fall into the "Maintenance" category. Premature wear could be blamed on your mods (silly huh).
I say this because of my life spent in a dealership. For the longest time, most Jeep dealers in my area voided ALL warranty on Rubicons if you put any lift or bigger tires. They didn't however do the same for the normal Wrangler.

 

[nuclear_runner]

Don't forget, your shocks were never designed for what you built the vehicle for. Shock upgrade should be a priority.

Shocks tend to fall into the "Maintenance" category. Premature wear could be blamed on your mods (silly huh).
I say this because of my life spent in a dealership. For the longest time, most Jeep dealers in my area voided ALL warranty on Rubicons if you put any lift or bigger tires. They didn't however do the same for the normal Wrangler.

Yeah... I could argue I'm under GVWR (and, I am and take great care to remain so) but ultimately the dealerships have a great deal of power to deny you warrant requests, to the point warranties are almost worthless. It's espcially frustraing because both companies (Chevy and esp Jeep) sell their vehicles on the image of doing exactly this kind of stuff. But, I'd still rather wait till they wear out. I'm going to do 33/35s, update the axle gear, and do the suspension all at once. Another reason I want to wait is because I want to see how much I really need to upgrade in this area. I'm also SLIGHTLY HOPEFUL it won't be my daily driver in 5ish years.

 

[smritte]

I'm also SLIGHTLY HOPEFUL it won't be my daily driver in 5ish years.

I hear you there. I'm glad I have a driver and a toy. If one breaks, I can still go to work.

 

[Billiebob]

You are overthinking this.

Don't exceed the GVWR.
Try to keep the center of gravity low.

But what is in the cab, separate from the box which is independent of the cab has zero effect on how the frame flexes.
The box, actually the frame flexes because ya got a lot of weight up high. The flex is in the frame.

You go over a bump or drop a tire into a hole and that RTT up high and proud with no shock absorber to restrict movement becomes a bobble head.

As to the stealership......, NEVER go there with the RTT up top...... they don't need ammo to start a fight.
And lie, lie, lie. Understand they are trained to bait you into giving them an out...... Run every question they ask thru yer mind before answering.
They are fishing for excuses to void the 7 year warranty.

 

[nuclear_runner]

You are overthinking this.

Don't exceed the GVWR.
Try to keep the center of gravity low.

Definitely overthinking it. I always do (symptom of ADHD lol). As I stated before I'm super careful about GVWR. All those 10-15 lbs items start adding up pretty quickly. One possible way to help the COG is would be to install Decked but the 200lbs is a pretty huge hit for a few drawers...

 

[madcratebuilder]

Your OEM 2 stage rear leafs are less than ideal. It doesn't take a lot of added weight before you are hitting the hard 2nd stage all the time. I had similar issues with my ZR2, I swapped to Deaver rear leafs and added a cross bar the the frame just behind the rear diff, like the GMPP crossbar that they want $600 for. Springs and bar made a significant improvement in handling and ride comfort. Your DSSV shocks are more than capable.

 

[nuclear_runner]

Your OEM 2 stage rear leafs are less than ideal. It doesn't take a lot of added weight before you are hitting the hard 2nd stage all the time. I had similar issues with my ZR2, I swapped to Deaver rear leafs and added a cross bar the the frame just behind the rear diff, like the GMPP crossbar that they want $600 for. Springs and bar made a significant improvement in handling and ride comfort. Your DSSV shocks are more than capable.

This is actually high on my list. I'm pretty new to uh... working on vehicles myself. How hard was this install or did you get a shop to do it?

 

[YoKramer]

This is actually high on my list. I'm pretty new to uh... working on vehicles myself. How hard was this install or did you get a shop to do it?

Spring packs are pretty easy if you have the proper tools, 4 nuts on each side of the axle where they rest, and 2 bolts on either end of the spring pack. Biggest thing is having tall enough jack stands to keep the body high enough to let the axle droop all the way down to remove the spring tension on them.

 

[madcratebuilder]

About a 2hr job on the ground with jack stands and a good floor jack. Spray the bolts with wd40 the night before. Good time to add Timbren off road bump stops. Watch all wires and hoses when you drop the diff.