Pin striping can be a badge of honor...but those scars hurt. Anyone wrapping their trucks and does it handle the scratches better?
Vehicle wraps
- Thread starter OilSlik
- Start date
IMO I don't think a wrap will help with scratches...other than to hide existing ones. Because it is vinyl, it will rip or tear with anything that gets into it. I wrapped my hood and roof along with the tailgate to get rid of paint oxidation on my 06 Taco. It was purely for looks and covered that gross milky flaky look.
Sent from my iPad using OB Talk
Kinda what I thought. And good to know. If your red truck is all wrap... that is a very job.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using OB Talk mobile app
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using OB Talk mobile app
Thx...it is just the black. Those were the only places of oxidation. AZ sun can be harsh.
Sent from my SM-G930V using OB Talk mobile app
Ok...yep...I see now. No doubt about AZ sun. Don't have to worry about that here in Michigan.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using OB Talk mobile app
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using OB Talk mobile app
I have not driven through thick brush or on heavily wooded trails, but I do have a lot of experience with vehicle wraps.
Most consumer grade vinyl is about 3-5 mils in thickness. This is about the same thickness of modern clear coats. Although vinyl is not as "hard" as clear coat, it will provide some protection against light scratches, trail striping and brush. A general rule of thumb is, if the object will damage the color coat under the clear coat, it will certainly rip through vinyl.
If you want to get a full vehicle wrap for color change/design purposes, I say do it. It will only benefit the paint by adding a second layer of protection. If there is some damage to the vinyl, you can always remove that section to re-wrap, or patch the damage (i.e. rock chips). The best option for protection is definitely PPF (paint protection film).
I hope this helps!
Most consumer grade vinyl is about 3-5 mils in thickness. This is about the same thickness of modern clear coats. Although vinyl is not as "hard" as clear coat, it will provide some protection against light scratches, trail striping and brush. A general rule of thumb is, if the object will damage the color coat under the clear coat, it will certainly rip through vinyl.
If you want to get a full vehicle wrap for color change/design purposes, I say do it. It will only benefit the paint by adding a second layer of protection. If there is some damage to the vinyl, you can always remove that section to re-wrap, or patch the damage (i.e. rock chips). The best option for protection is definitely PPF (paint protection film).
I hope this helps!
If you are worried about pinstripe, then a cosmetic wrap isn't going to be the best option. I would look at getting some custom clear-bra or similar material installed on the vehicle. I know there are places that will wrap vehicles in clear layers to deal with scratches and chips; many wrap companies have that capability.
When I get asked about my trail damage, I just think of the quote in my signature.
When I get asked about my trail damage, I just think of the quote in my signature.
Just for reference. my shell is wrapped black (got sick of looking like a commercial CHP truck) and it has taken trail striping well and not torn. The last trip out left fairly heavy pin-striping on the clear coat on my truck, while the wrap suffered the same, it held up.I am thinking of wrapping the whole truck at this point, partially for this reason, partially for aesthetic reasons.
Last edited:
I don't think so your vehicle wrap need to be replaced by now. it looks pretty well you can go two to three journeys more then think of replacing it.
That is one sweet looking rig! I was thinking of doing a wrap myself of a flat military green or sand. It would hurt pretty bad if I spent the money only to have it tear!
Thank you sir,
OD Green is actually the color I may be wrapping the truck. I was at OTG this last weekend and there was someone there with a wrapped rig, they reported it being pretty durable as well.
That would look pretty rad. I'd like to end up with something similar to this Tacoma Concept Truck from a few years ago.
Off-Road Ranger I
I put a vinyl wrap on the hood of my rig that took care of 95% of the oxidation and B1-RD blemishes in the paint. The previous owner had it stored outside and the damage was already done to the clear coat. The roof has a few spots too but not as many...I will be looking at getting something made for up there if it get any worse.
Did you apply the wrap yourself? I was wondering if that would be a possibility.
I know everyone is pretty down on plasti-dip, but I've used it on things in the past and it's a pretty good non-permanent solution.
Off-Road Ranger I
I did install it myself...it took two people, soapy water and a real good felt covered vinyl squeeze to get it to go on without any bubbles. I watched a ton of Youtube videos before attempting it since it was my first time and the sheet wasn't cheap if I blew it.
Attachments
Off-Road Ranger I
Nope a single one. The great part is that the vinyl slides around so you can get it right where you want it and then it's game on working from center out with even pressure. I wouldn't suggest drinking any coffee that day because you'll need a steady hand.
Sent from my iPhone using OB Talk
I did some vinyl stickers/ banners and tint on my friend's and my vehicles and the bubbles could be a nightmare. This sound's like it would be much more pleasant. I must say yours look pretty dang cool too!
I diy'd my shell. Now, it is far from perfect and I learned a ton doing it, which is why I started there. I wanted it black, and was pondering rhino lining or plastidip and decided to try vinyl and was ok with mistakes on it. (first large area I have done, had done smaller items before) but at the end these are the high points I picked up that makes me feel comfortable in doing this for the rest of the body:
Get good tools, knifeless tape and felt squeegee are a must, a good blade, and a good heat gun
Hope that helps!
- Clean and wax/buff everything well before install, this will help with install when you are placing and pulling the vinyl back up to reposition/stretch, not having debris under the film, as well as if you want to remove at some point it helps it release
- Dont do it when its super cold (the vinyl will want to tear) and have a heat gun handy
- Make sure you get quality vinyl (avery or 3M 1080) with micro perforations to let air out
- Watch videos on cold stretching things, heating to stretch too much will cause shrink back and can potentially tear after its sat a bit
- Post heat to lock it in (after it is placed, this helps lock it on)
- the "Triangle" pull and stretch method I found to work best for getting it on smooth in the first go, MAKE SURE to leave enough material that you have something to hold on to when doing all this
- The vinyl is very resilient, dont be afraid to be a little tough on it and lean on it hard to get it to stretch cold
- Take off all the trim you can, I wish I would have slid my shell off the back of the bed a bit for this, but oh well.
Get good tools, knifeless tape and felt squeegee are a must, a good blade, and a good heat gun
Hope that helps!
Influencer II
- 4,645
- First Name
- Drew
- Last Name
- Sherwood
- Member #
-
6240
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- KV50
- Service Branch
- Kern Valley SAR
I have always felt that paint with a good layer of wax will always hold up to most pinstriping. That being said my dad's rock rig is full body linex and it still takes scratches and marks....we just don't mind them anymore. Vynil or any surface will show marks... you gotta decide if the pain is what you are trying to save or replace.
