Upgrading the main battery for fridge use; Odyssey VS generic AGM Deep cycle dual purpose marine battery

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rkcreative

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I am looking to add a fridge to my 17" JKUR and have embarked on doing some research regarding batteries.

I know dual set up would be the solution, however my trips do not involve me being stationary for more than an overnight period so basically I'm looking to upgrade my main battery to be able to better deal with the having the fride hooked up to it over night. During the day I am out on the trails and I also do have a jump start power bank ready in case I get stranded with a dead battery.

In my research I came across this informative chart:

image.png

The common consensus is that the Odyssey is the way to go, however looking at the specs, considering the price point; I am wondering if I could save a few bucks and go with a generic AGM Deep cycle, dual purpose marine unit.

I came across a super start unit at O'reilley with the following specs:
super start.GIF

The specs are very close to the Odyssey one, Price $149 VS $320.

Thoughts? Have any of you run such batteries?
 

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Salty4Life

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Following for answers. I’m looking into doing the same thing, but my truck (Ram 2500 Cummins) came with dual batteries from the factory. I’m wondering if I even need to swap them out for deep cycles.
 

Mike harpe

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The Sears battery is about the same as the odessy. Cheaper 2 too. But with sears going out of business I'd go the oriellys route
 

Steve in Roanoke VA

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I am looking to add a fridge to my 17" JKUR and have embarked on doing some research regarding batteries.

I know dual set up would be the solution, however my trips do not involve me being stationary for more than an overnight period so basically I'm looking to upgrade my main battery to be able to better deal with the having the fride hooked up to it over night. During the day I am out on the trails and I also do have a jump start power bank ready in case I get stranded with a dead battery.

In my research I came across this informative chart:

View attachment 121375

The common consensus is that the Odyssey is the way to go, however looking at the specs, considering the price point; I am wondering if I could save a few bucks and go with a generic AGM Deep cycle, dual purpose marine unit.

I came across a super start unit at O'reilley with the following specs:
View attachment 121377

The specs are very close to the Odyssey one, Price $149 VS $320.

Thoughts? Have any of you run such batteries?
Thanks for posting the great chart & info on the AGM. I have not used any AGM myself, but when my battery gives up I'm keeping them on the short list. Personally, for the money I would give the AGM a go, since you carry a backup starter & are just stationary at night. Gives you more $$ for trip expenses.
 
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quadabaum

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I installed the X2 power battery, bought it at batteries plus with 20% off and a $20 rebate. Great value in my opinion. Happy with it so far. I am in a similar situation as you, overnights then move camp. I didnt want a dual battery so I went AGM.
 
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quadabaum

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My fridge is 12v. I also added 5 led strips to my GFC for lighting. I run everything thru my Blue seas fuse block that I set up under the hood.
 

The other Sean

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The thing to consider with an Oreiley's battery or an Odyssey is there is a good chance there is an Oreiley's nearby if you ever have issue and need to swap it out no matter where you are. That was my thinking when I swapped an Autozone gold AGM battery in to my truck.
Amp hours, price and ability to swap out easily for a fresh one are always my main thoughts when choosing a battery.

With that said, is it possible to fit a larger battery in to the OEM spot? Not being familiar with your vehicle that is.
 

BJ_OTR

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I’ve recently added 2 more batteries to my rig. I would do the AGM deep cycle batteries but make sure you check the amp hour. I started with 2 optima blue tops and found out they were only 55 am hours each. That brought my total to 110 amp hours. I recently switched both of those out to 2 vmax 125 batteries and now my total amp hours are up to 250. With the original set up I ran my dometic CFX 95 and lights for 2 days. The Ah input was only more the the output by a small margin, Hence the upgrade. I haven’t been out with this new set up yet but I’ll keep you guys posted on how it goes. Also, I’m using 2 100w flexible panels taped to the top of my rig to charge these. The panels Connect to a Renogy 40 amp MPPT. Then to the batteries. After more research I should have got the MPPT with DC to DC charger. Now I have to get a separate DC to DC charger to charge the batteries from the alternator while the engine is on. I hope this helps!
 

Texassailor

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Like you, I have a 2017 JKUR. I've added two Odyssey PC1500 batteries as a "house" bank in the rear. My factory starting battery just went kaput, so I replaced it with a yellow-top Optima. I run my SnoMaster 56L fridge/freezer off the house bank. This is my daily driver and the fridge/freezer runs 24/7 (and has for the last two years; fridge at 32 deg F and freezer at 0 deg F). I keep the house bank charged primarily by roof rack-mounted solar panels (2 x Renogy 100w monocrystalline #RNG-100D-S) controlled by ACOPOWER 40W MPPT Controller (w/MT50 LCD Display). The MPPT controller matches very well with the Odyssey batteries because you can configure the controller to the specific charging requirements of these batteries (which require a higher charging voltage than most).

At night when parked in the garage, I connect the SnoMaster to AC (110V); keeps from having to use the batteries. Occasionally, I'll charge my house batteries with my CTEK (56-674) Multi US 2500 25A charger to properly "condition" them . . . maybe once every two weeks during long solar days. During the winter, I do this more often (shorter days). The Odyssey batteries require almost all of the 25A available to properly charge/condition.

This setup has worked well for the last two years . . . even here is very hot central Texas. I'll see how long the Odysseys last. The Optima was NOT recommended by SnoMaster for house batteries. They (supposedly) do not perform as well for this function.

[NOTE: It is great having the house batteries to jump the starting battery if necessary. I learned this lesson recently with the starting battery died.]
 
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rkcreative

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Traveler I

I ended up putting in an Odyssey PC1500. I was able to run a fridge and some other LED lights without any issues.

I did however get stuck in a deep mud hole while running a trail out in the Ozarks. I tried winching out (Warn VR10) and the battery gave up after about 20-30 seconds of winching. The jeep was running and etc, the winch just started clicking under the load.

I am not sure if that is something to be expected, with a single on-board battery.
 

Alex Brame

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Following for answers. I’m looking into doing the same thing, but my truck (Ram 2500 Cummins) came with dual batteries from the factory. I’m wondering if I even need to swap them out for deep cycles.
I believe the big thing is to isolate the starter battery from the auxiliary battery. That makes you free to add loads to the auxililary battery. I don't know if your dual battery system does that already(?).
 

yak51

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I swapped my group 27 in my 2011 Tacoma for a group 31. Fits nice and gives me juice to run my Engel mt45 fridge on trips. My fridge only has a max draw of 2.5 amps, even with start up. I don't do overnight or multi day trips at this point.

I'm in San Diego CA and have West Marine boating stores here. It's a dual purpose battery with 105 amp hrs. I don't have the rest of the info with me.
At least three times a year they have excellent sales on their batteries. I picked it up for about $220's. One of my reasons for buying this battery is that I've been on the ocean many time and those batteries have to be built tough for the amount of banging in the waves that they do. The sales guy said he thought the batteries were made by Penn batteries.
 

Alex Brame

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So recently I added a second battery (dual purpose deep cycle) on aan isolator relay. A bit of a chore to put them next to each other, but the after market industry has made this doable as a DIY project. I left my existing battery in place, drooled over the Optima Yellow Top for awhile, then bought the new one (Duracel) at Batteries Plus Bulbs for under $100. The isolator relay system cost about $150. Better yet would be a DC to DC Charger, which would cost about $500. Fridge in back could remain on, drawing from the deep cycle aux. battery. No option for Solar...don't expect to see the sun again 'til June ;)
 

Alex Brame

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So I am guessing you all are running strictly 12v accessories or 12v with some 110/115v ?
There's quite the 12V industry out there. Lights fridges, air compressors, you name it. I have a 110V plug in bar that plugs into a cig. lighter type 12V outlet if I need to charge something 110V.