Trailer pros and cons...opinions??

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smritte

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Don't forget, without good trailer brakes, the trailer push's the back of the tow vehicle up on stops. This not only lightens the back but, if the trailer is not perfectly straight, increases the chance of jack knife by a huge factor.
 

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Track width is the width of the rear axles. Matching it to the tow vehicle can be convenient if it's an off road type trailer. With regular trailers it doesn't matter.

Wheelbase is the distance between your axles. Matching the trailer axle distance to the front ax,e distance, from the rear axle, can make the trailer tend to track in line with the tow vehicle in turns. But only to a certain extent. You'll get used to swinging wide and squaring off your turns, it's VMware no big deal.

The swinging boat anchors are because the rear of the trailer is too heavy. And the nose too light. This also causes the trailer to lift the tow vehicle when going over bumps on the highway. First clue is a noisy hitch. If your hitch rattles, you might be in trouble. This causes the most impressive flip over flying jacknife wrecks. A car or truck with suspension that's far too soft really accentuates this.

You always want to weigh down the nose of the trailer as much as possible, then pick a tow vehicle that can handle it. Since I can handle 3000# of tongue weight easy, I'll load my trailers abnormally heavy on the nose, for extra stability.

Just remember, if your tow vehicles nose is higher than it's tail, it won't be able to stop.
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Exactly. Having the axle distances similar sure helps in trailer following tow vehicle well though, as you say, width of your axle matching closely helps it track even better. My van is so long already at 155" wheelbase and I'm so used to swinging wide, I never notice my trailer cutting corners.

As for tongue weight, yep, exactly again. I bought a nice little Sherline Tongue Weight Scale, that by the time it got here, I'd already figured out just the right way to load my trailer for smooth, easy towing. Even with cargo area empty, I keep my nose box loaded for front weight. Never used the scale, and will probably sell it.
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Don't forget, without good trailer brakes, the trailer push's the back of the tow vehicle up on stops. This not only lightens the back but, if the trailer is not perfectly straight, increases the chance of jack knife by a huge factor.
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Good trailer brakes are SO handy both in highway towing and off-pavement. I'll reach down and lightly apply just my trailer brakes at the controller in certain situations.
Trailer brakes also extend the life of the tow vehicle's brakes in all around use, and spread the load over six brakes instead of four on steep descents, keeping my van brakes from heating up as much.
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surfnturf

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I purchased my Canadian Military Trailer about 15 years ago for 1,000.00. I put set of racks, and a Roof Top Tent on it and I would have to say it is the best "Overland" investment I ever made. I have it set up to carry Bikes, Surfboards, as well as Kayaks. Currently I have it set up and ready to go at a moments notice and it can be towed by anything an anybody. We even bring it behind our Motorhome from time to time when we need a spare room for friends or family. My trailer has the axle mounted under the leaf springs giving it about 4" lift which allows plenty of space for 33" x 12.5 tires. I've pulled this trailer on the Rubicon from Loon Lake to Spider lake without any issues.

In addition to camping and overland travel, it is handy for dump runs and hauling firewood.

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Rubinot06

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I ran a RTT on my XJ's and then the LJ I have now but room was always at a premium. After a really wet trip down the Oregon coast in 2017 the wife green lighted a trailer but money was our issue too. I chose to build one and am still tweeking it constantly. The bottom line is I wouldn't even consider not having it! More stable for the RTT and we take everything and anything we want. Though it isn't "sealed" it is pretty dry (a little water finds it's way in around the rear door) and I don't worry about gear going in wet or not since it isn't in the Jeep with us. So far no problem getting anywhere but I built it and pack it balanced enough to disconnect it and move it by the tongue if necessary. Used ones can be had but prices have gone up at least where I am in WA, COVID tax it seems. I say invest in one and don't look back!
 

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MOAK

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new topic, transporting firewood, there is an environmental risk to forests when transporting firewood across different watersheds. In most jurisdictions there is a regulation prohibiting it since a bug or disease can be transported with the firewood and affect the new area you are camping in. Thinking of tread lightly, it might be best to find firewood each night.
Absolutely! My extended family is learning about this. As much as we may desire a campfire on the high deserts, it makes little sense to be dragging firewood 3,000 miles or so, just for a little ambience let alone the environmental impact. Not only insects, but imagine what the northwest would look like if Crown Vetch ever became invasive to the region. On top of that, we are spoiled, I use 2-3 cords a season heating my carriage house as that is the hub of all things maintenance on our home and vehicles. We have a few 120 year old maples that keep me supplied with about a cord a year, on average. This past season I had to buy 2 cords for the first time in years. ( I hand split my own wood as needed, but last fall we were out and about during my self declared splitting season) so I bought some at 120 a cord- delivered.

I’m too cheap to spend a dollar a piece for firewood from a roadside vendor. Vermont would be the exception, they fetch 50 cents a piece up there and in a pinch, I’ll get some of that. Otherwise, If there aren’t any downed trees or limbs to harvest near camp, then no fire. There’s always a warm sip of bourbon and a welcome fire here at home. I ramble, peace out !
 

MOAK

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Track width is the width of the rear axles. Matching it to the tow vehicle can be convenient if it's an off road type trailer. With regular trailers it doesn't matter.

Wheelbase is the distance between your axles. Matching the trailer axle distance to the front ax,e distance, from the rear axle, can make the trailer tend to track in line with the tow vehicle in turns. But only to a certain extent. You'll get used to swinging wide and squaring off your turns, it's VMware no big deal.

The swinging boat anchors are because the rear of the trailer is too heavy. And the nose too light. This also causes the trailer to lift the tow vehicle when going over bumps on the highway. First clue is a noisy hitch. If your hitch rattles, you might be in trouble. This causes the most impressive flip over flying jacknife wrecks. A car or truck with suspension that's far too soft really accentuates this.

You always want to weigh down the nose of the trailer as much as possible, then pick a tow vehicle that can handle it. Since I can handle 3000# of tongue weight easy, I'll load my trailers abnormally heavy on the nose, for extra stability.

Just remember, if your tow vehicles nose is higher than it's tail, it won't be able to stop.
I’ll add that if the hitch is too high that trailer’ll swing right around and smack you upside the head.
That’s a big truck you’re using at 3,000 lbs of tongue weight. I’m currently at 200lbs of tongue weight with a 1300 lb trailer. Well within the rule of thumb, 10-15% . I recently rebuilt the frame on my trailer to accommodate an RTT. Took it for a test drive, and rattle rattle, wiggle wiggle. I knew that would happen even with proper tongue weight. After the frame and suspension modifications, I will be fine tuning everything by lowering the hitch height about 2” and then adjusting my suspension accordingly. Here’s a shot of it tail dragging, and one of it level. Adjustable hitch is on the way and my wrenches are at the ready.
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