Traction Control (VSC) - HELP

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Kcrkolby

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Hi Everyone,

I need some thoughts. I have a 2008 FJ Cruiser, with a 2-inch icon lift with SPC Upper UCA's, and I have recently replaced my rack and pinion. Ever since replacing this, my VSC activates on many turns. When turning into parking lots, making a u-turn, and when driving the back roads. This never use to happen and I have had a mechanic look at it and he couldn't figure it out either.

Any Thoughts?
I do have my front sway bar on still.

I was looking at just getting a VSC button and keep it off but if i can get it figured out I will do that
 

Justin Forrest

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Have you tried resetting it yet. This is a common problem on many Toyotas after lifting. Not sure why it would happen after a new rack though.
 

Winterpeg

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It sounds like something is binding... assuming you should have normal traction (ie: you're not driving on ice). Perhaps it's out of alignment or maybe you are running the tires with too much air in them and are bouncing?

If you need to disable the traction control until you figure it out.... pull the wiring harness plug that is on the front of your master brake cylinder. This disables the VSC until you plug it back in and restart the FJ.
 

Kcrkolby

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It sounds like something is binding... assuming you should have normal traction (ie: you're not driving on ice). Perhaps it's out of alignment or maybe you are running the tires with too much air in them and are bouncing?

If you need to disable the traction control until you figure it out.... pull the wiring harness plug that is on the front of your master brake cylinder. This disables the VSC until you plug it back in and restart the FJ.
Thank you. The tire pressure has been the same at 60psi. and the alignment is pretty dead on, at least from my mechanics point of view and my driving lol

I'll give pulling the wiring harness for now. Does that disable anything else?
 

Winterpeg

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Thank you. The tire pressure has been the same at 60psi. and the alignment is pretty dead on, at least from my mechanics point of view and my driving lol

I'll give pulling the wiring harness for now. Does that disable anything else?
Holy crap man... drop that psi to 40 at most.

Pulling that wiring harness just disables the traction control nannies... An ABS light comes on but, with mine at least, ABS is still active. So for me, I prefer not to have ABS while driving in the city so I pull the fuse - which disables the traction control AND the ABS.
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Kcrkolby

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Holy crap man... drop that psi to 40 at most.

Pulling that wiring harness just disables the traction control nannies... An ABS light comes on but, with mine at least, ABS is still active. So for me, I prefer not to have ABS while driving in the city so I pull the fuse - which disables the traction control AND the ABS.
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Aw gotcha, i'll get it a shot. Do you really think i should drop it to 40? It runs quite well at 60 and get better gas millage.
 

Justin Forrest

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Look for a vid on YouTube for how to do a chalk test. This is the best way I know to find what psi works for your rig and tires.
 

Winterpeg

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Aw gotcha, i'll get it a shot. Do you really think i should drop it to 40? It runs quite well at 60 and get better gas millage.
Most (if not all) traction control issues on dry pavement are from over-inflated tires. You say it runs quite well but the fact is, it's losing traction on turns. You will likely have traction issues entering roadways as well.... causing you to lose power when you need it most.

I'm not sure why you would have it at 60. It will give you better gas mileage... no doubt. I prefer to have traction and a smoother ride though.

Your California roads are likely light years better than my roads so you can get away with the incredibly high psi.... around here I probably couldn't make it 1 block without losing traction and bouncing my kidneys into my throat as well.

In the winter here I run my tires around 28-30 psi.... E-rated Duratracs. This is a bit low, but I'm not going highway speeds. If/when I go on a highway trip I will put them up to 35.
In the summer it's typically at 38.
When towing I crank up the rear psi accordingly as well. When I'm completely loaded down with gear and the double-quad trailer, I have had the rear at 50 psi or a bit more.
 
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Kcrkolby

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Thank you everyone for the input! So far, I have done the zero point reset and lowered my PSI to 35. I am still having problems with the front driver side traction control still triggering. Could something be loose, broken, or bad sensor? I can't seem to find a problem with either of those.
 

Winterpeg

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Thank you everyone for the input! So far, I have done the zero point reset and lowered my PSI to 35. I am still having problems with the front driver side traction control still triggering. Could something be loose, broken, or bad sensor? I can't seem to find a problem with either of those.
Any issues with your brakes themselves? It's odd that the traction control is triggering unnecessarily.

What exactly are you doing when the traction control engages? Speed, road type, ice/snow, etc....?
 

Kcrkolby

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Any issues with your brakes themselves? It's odd that the traction control is triggering unnecessarily.

What exactly are you doing when the traction control engages? Speed, road type, ice/snow, etc....?
No issues with my brakes. I can be doing anything really, from less then 5mph making a U-turn or driving the back roads going 30-50mph. At the higher speeds it's scary. All on dry and good paved roads. I am literally confused on what it could be.
 

Winterpeg

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No issues with my brakes. I can be doing anything really, from less then 5mph making a U-turn or driving the back roads going 30-50mph. At the higher speeds it's scary. All on dry and good paved roads. I am literally confused on what it could be.
Are you giving it a bunch of gas and breaking lose the traction on the rear end?

What does it exactly do when it engages? Do you lose throttle and it beeps at you and the light on the dash lights up?

Is it throwing any codes? Check engine light on?

It's not totally unusual for a loss of traction on "back roads"... lose surfaces etc. Is your suspension really stiff and jarring? How comfortable is your ride?

I just re-read your first post... 2" Icon lift.... and rack and pinion. What springs did you get? Medium or heavy duty? I see that you do not have any heavy steel bumpers or winch so it's possible that the suspension is set up for more weight than you have.

Why did you have to replace the rack and pinion?

It's possible that one of your wheel speed sensors is wonky.
 

Kcrkolby

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Are you giving it a bunch of gas and breaking lose the traction on the rear end?

What does it exactly do when it engages? Do you lose throttle and it beeps at you and the light on the dash lights up?

Is it throwing any codes? Check engine light on?

It's not totally unusual for a loss of traction on "back roads"... lose surfaces etc. Is your suspension really stiff and jarring? How comfortable is your ride?

I just re-read your first post... 2" Icon lift.... and rack and pinion. What springs did you get? Medium or heavy duty? I see that you do not have any heavy steel bumpers or winch so it's possible that the suspension is set up for more weight than you have.

Why did you have to replace the rack and pinion?

It's possible that one of your wheel speed sensors is wonky.
No it is just normal driving. I never had any issues until i changed the rack an pinion. I changed it because the passenger side gears were shredded allowing the right wheel to do what it wants. When it "loses traction" it just beeps, no lights on the dash go on. There are no codes or check engine light. I have the 650lbs springs with the extended travel. I currently do not have any bumper or winch but that will change in the next month. Thank you for the help!