Tire Chains Newb...

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Same chains front and rear or a more aggressive set in the rear?


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kingofthehill29

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I have no experience with tire chains. I have driven many times in snow and ice in the past but never got to the point I needed tire chains. This year I have planned a couple of trips into the mountains to snow mobile and ski. I want to be prepared so I am looking at buying 2 sets of chains. My vehicle is a 4wd 4runner. It has full time 4wd. My main question is can I run a more aggressive set of chains in the rear and a less aggressive set in the front? The reason I ask is due to my vehicle being full time 4wd and my front tires being larger than stock rub a little bit as is without the chains at full lock on steering. My rear does not rub at all.
 

systemdelete

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At the speeds you run (or lack thereof) with chains equipped it should be no problem. I’ve always run matching chains for simplicity in putting them on and tensioning.
 

M Rose

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Matching chains, if you want a more aggressive chain set than the other, put it on the front to help dig and steer. Always chain the front, lots of time no chainsmare even needed on the rear. I used tomuse chains all the time. its been about 20 years since I have chained up, and I do more now with out them (yes I still cary them) then I did when I used tomget stuck and needed them.
 
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Prerunner1982

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I don't have much experience with chains either, but my fondest memory of them was going up the mountain in Ruidoso, NM to ski.
The van in front of us had cable chains and it didn't fair well. After multiple attempts at a pretty steep turn they backed out of the way.
My Dad's old CJ7 with some V-bar chains walked up it no problem.
Ever since I have been a fan of the aggressive chains.
 

64Trvlr

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Ideally having 2 sets of chains is the best. If you only have 1 set chain the front up so you'll have steering, braking and traction. Quality chains are expensive so if you're going to buy chains buy "V" block chains, they will last 5-10 times longer than cheap chains or cables. Also buy twice as many chain tighteners as you think you need, you'll thank me later. :laughing:

Once you have your chains AND tighteners, on a nice sunny, dry day practice putting them on and taking them off a couple of times. That's a better way to learn to put them on instead of a cold, snowy, wet, pitch black night in the middle of no-where or on the side of a busy road.

While you have them on and tightened up, drive 50-60 feet and see if they rub or hit anything, do they rub when you turn the steering wheel. If they aren't right get a set that fits before you need them and tear your vehicle up.
 
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Out_and_Back_Again

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My manual says to use Class S chains. I think these are usually low profile chains. They also say to only use on the rear axle. I think that both of specs are so that the chains don't damage the vehicle. 1. Low profile so there isn't any body interferance and 2. So if a chain breaks or comes loose up front it doesn't damage steering parts.

In your experiences can these two specs be ignored (at my own risk) for emergency use? I'm not planning on breaking any trails with my truck.
 

64Trvlr

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My manual says to use Class S chains. I think these are usually low profile chains. They also say to only use on the rear axle. I think that both of specs are so that the chains don't damage the vehicle. 1. Low profile so there isn't any body interferance and 2. So if a chain breaks or comes loose up front it doesn't damage steering parts.

In your experiences can these two specs be ignored (at my own risk) for emergency use? I'm not planning on breaking any trails with my truck.
You have 2 vehicles listed which vehicle are you asking about?
 

Dilldog

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Yeah, sorry. 2019 RAM
I wouldnt worry about it too much for extremely limited emergency use. Another thing to bear in mind is not only clearance but the potential limitations of your front differential and CV shafts. With that 5.7 you have a lot of power there, and most front diffs on IFS rigs are aluminum housings, if you slip then grab hard with the engine at peak torque I could see it cracking a differential housing or popping a CV.

Now back to the original concern. Honestly I wouldnt worry too much about carrying 2 sets of chains, especially since you said your tires rub. I would be hesitant to run tire chains on a position where I know there is potential for tires to rub, I dont know that I would be OK with the potential damage and what not there. I will echo the idea of running all your tire chains the same. Finally I do understand the idea of running all 4 chained up, I had V bars for my little old Isuzu for all 4 wheels. Let me tell you, there is nothing like a 2800lbs 4x4, all chained up with a locking rear and a limited slip up front, it was like a snowmobile recovery vehicle, lol...
 
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Billiebob

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I have no experience with tire chains. I have driven many times in snow and ice in the past but never got to the point I needed tire chains. This year I have planned a couple of trips into the mountains to snow mobile and ski. I want to be prepared so I am looking at buying 2 sets of chains. My vehicle is a 4wd 4runner. It has full time 4wd. My main question is can I run a more aggressive set of chains in the rear and a less aggressive set in the front? The reason I ask is due to my vehicle being full time 4wd and my front tires being larger than stock rub a little bit as is without the chains at full lock on steering. My rear does not rub at all.
Buy tires, rims which fit before putting chains on the front. They will shred the sheet metal.
PS You really don't need chains on the front.
 

Out_and_Back_Again

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Buy tires, rims which fit before putting chains on the front. They will shred the sheet metal.
PS You really don't need chains on the front.
I think I have to agree with no chains on the front for on road use. You shouldn't be going over 30mph with chains on so breaking and stearing shouldn't be inhibited too much if you have good tires and chains on the rear.