Thinking of a Nissan Xterra

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TerryD

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I'm not familiar with the 1st gen (99-04) Xterra. I chose the 2nd Gen (05-15) because they are roomier than the 1st and more powerful and don't have the torsion bar front suspension.

The 2005-2010 Xterras are becoming more affordable but you need to be aware of some issues they had.

#1: The transmission cooler in the radiator degrades and allows the coolant to enter the transmission and ruin the TCM/valve body and usually burn up the whole transmission. This is an expensive fix so be sure to look up SMOD online. Many will say you can just bypass the factory cooler in the radiator and use only the external one but that's not true. It will get you by till you can replace the radiator but if you are off-road with it or towing, you'll need to get the radiator replaced ASAP to maintain the level of cooling they were designed to have.

#2: The timing chain guides in them are known to wear prematurely and need replaced. There is a very noticeable whine, like a supercharger or Ford power steering pump would whine. This is also fixable but at a cost if you cannot do it yourself.

If you don't want to possibly buy a project, it's best to look for the 2011-2015 year models. They are widely regarded as the best of the 2nd gens due to these issues. They will be more expensive as well, but generally found with lower mileage.

Keep in mind though, a nice early 2nd gen with one of these issues can usually be had fairly cheap and then repaired. I bought mine with a new transmission in it really cheap with the timing set whine and was still under book after having the timing TSB performed and the radiator replaced (so I could run the factory cooler again) at a Nissan dealership.

There are 4 packages:

X: Bare bones. Usually steel wheels. Usually no wet box in the roof rack. Plastic strips in the utili-track system in the rear cargo area (just pull them out to use the system). Occasionally found with manual windows and locks and without cruise control from what I've heard online. Maybe not the later models though.

S: Slightly nicer. Usually has wet box and aluminum wheels. Utili-track system will usually be open.

SE: Available leather interior, better radio with steering wheel controls and possibly a sub-woofer. Usually side curtain air bags. Usually has fog lights in the bumper. Available back-up camera in later years. Usually has wet box.

Pro-4x & Off-Road: Driving lights on the roof of the Pro-4x and foglights. Should have a wet box. Later years will have the back-up camera. Usually has leather interior. Comes with lower gearing than the other models and a rear locking differential. (If it doesn't have the locking rear differential, it was a rebadged model that some dealerships sold.) They will also have the Bilstein blue and yellow 4600 series shocks from the factory.

The X, S, and SE in 4x4 all have 3.13 gears for an automatic transmission and 3.54 gears for a manual.

Pro-4x and Off-Road have 3.36 gears for automatic and 3.69 for manual and both have rear lockers.

The rear springs are not the best on any of the 2nd gens. Off-road use will usually kill them off eventually and using a shackle lift in the rear will expedite that. Good replacements can be had from General Spring in an OE configuration but many of us need to carrier heavier loads and opt for custom springs such as the Old Man Emu springs or in my case, full custom packs from Alcan Spring. In my case they have +500lb capacity and 3" of lift.

Check out Xterra Nation for plenty of info on both 1st and 2nd gen Xterras. We're almost as bad as British car enthusiasts for loving EVERY Xterra we encounter.

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask!
 
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M Rose

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Just to be clear, when I recommend a Chevrolet Trailblazer, I am specifically referring to the 2002 - 2009 GMT360 chassis, which is a FR/4WD Body-on-Frame SUV; not a unibody crossover.

The all-new 2021 Chevrolet Trailblazer is definitely more of a "soft roader" crossover SUV and not something I would generally recommend for Overlanding.
That was what I was recommending as well... I crawled everywhere (even Moab) with my 2006 Trailblazer. I wish the ex didn’t win it in the divorce, otherwise I would still be using it.
 
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reaver

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I'm not familiar with the 1st gen (99-04) Xterra. I chose the 2nd Gen (05-15) because they are roomier than the 1st and more powerful and don't have the torsion bar front suspension.

The 2005-2010 Xterras are becoming more affordable but you need to be aware of some issues they had.

#1: The transmission cooler in the radiator degrades and allows the coolant to enter the transmission and ruin the TCM/valve body and usually burn up the whole transmission. This is an expensive fix so be sure to look up SMOD online. Many will say you can just bypass the factory cooler in the radiator and use only the external one but that's not true. It will get you by till you can replace the radiator but if you are off-road with it or towing, you'll need to get the radiator replaced ASAP to maintain the level of cooling they were designed to have.

#2: The timing chain guides in them are known to wear prematurely and need replaced. There is a very noticeable whine, like a supercharger or Ford power steering pump would whine. This is also fixable but at a cost if you cannot do it yourself.

If you don't want to possibly buy a project, it's best to look for the 2011-2015 year models. They are widely regarded as the best of the 2nd gens due to these issues. They will be more expensive as well, but generally found with lower mileage.

Keep in mind though, a nice early 2nd gen with one of these issues can usually be had fairly cheap and then repaired. I bought mine with a new transmission in it really cheap with the timing set whine and was still under book after having the timing TSB performed and the radiator replaced (so I could run the factory cooler again) at a Nissan dealership.

There are 4 packages:

X: Bare bones. Usually steel wheels. Usually no wet box in the roof rack. Plastic strips in the utili-track system in the rear cargo area (just pull them out to use the system). Occasionally found with manual windows and locks and without cruise control from what I've heard online. Maybe not the later models though.
S: Slightly nicer. Usually has wet box and aluminum wheels. Utili-track system will usually be open.
SE: Available leather interior, better radio with steering wheel controls and possibly a sub-woofer. Usually side curtain air bags. Usually has fog lights in the bumper. Available back-up camera in later years. Usually has wet box.
Pro-4x & Off-Road: Driving lights on the roof of the Pro-4x and foglights. Should have a wet box. Later years will have the back-up camera. Usually has leather interior. Comes with lower gearing than the other models and a rear locking differential. (If it doesn't have the locking rear differential, it was a rebadged model that some dealerships sold.) They will also have the Bilstein blue and yellow 4600 series shocks from the factory.

The X, S, and SE in 4x4 all have 3.13 gears for an automatic transmission and 3.54 gears for a manual.

Pro-4x and Off-Road have 3.36 gears for automatic and 3.69 for manual and both have rear lockers.

The rear springs are not the best on any of the 2nd gens. Off-road use will usually kill them off eventually and using a shackle lift in the rear will expedite that. Good replacements can be had from General Spring in an OE configuration but many of us need to carrier heavier loads and opt for custom springs such as the Old Man Emu springs or in my case, full custom packs from Alcan Spring. In my case they have +500lb capacity and 3" of lift.

Check out Xterra Nation for plenty of info on both 1st and 2nd gen Xterras. We're almost as bad as British car enthusiasts for loving EVERY Xterra we encounter.

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask!
A wealth of information, as always Terry.
 
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BarryD

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Are you planning on sleeping in the Xterra or throwing a RTT on it?

Also while there is some aftermarket support, lead times can be long. Just be aware that you'll need to plan ahead and be patient.
Probably a RTT. I’m toying with that idea or finding a good, used overland camper. Good to know about the parts. Fortunately, I’m not far from Southern Off Road. They fabricate a lot of custom stuff.
 

reaver

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I mean, maybe if it was a 2015 with really low miles, and had a good service history, I could see maybe spending that much. But you **should ** be able to find one cheaper, especially if you're willing to be patient. It also depends on the area you live in. I paid 5800 for an 03 with good service history and 135k miles. Here in idaho, most vehicles that are 4x4 command a premium.

Did I pay more than I should have. Yes. Do I regret it? Absolutely not.
 

M Rose

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I agree way too expensive.

edit: after searching your area for the Pr–4x I see that 18-25k is fair, but still several available in the 3-6k range
 
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Smileyshaun

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Geez they definitely hold their value more than I thought !! Ya I think I’ll be selling mine probably after winter , really could use a truck anyways .
 

Kilo Sierra

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I'd look at the first one personally if you were planning on outfitting it. While it's $24k you can start deducting all of the things you'd add anyways...with a little premium for not having to wait.

Took a look at their website... for upgrades that I could see... the front bumper, rear bumper (looks like it was a tire swing model that someone removed the swing...wonder if you could get it replaced), MK84 suspension, sliders, 2 x DepHep MOLLE panels, I believe UCA's, and an ARB rear differential cover. Looks like the last owner removed the boob lights. Looking at $3-4k in mods if you were to buy new and not having to wait many months for fabrication.

I'll give you it's a little steep in price, but you'd have a well-equipped rig with four recovery points off the lot, which would be in line with some of the other X prices. For comparison I bought my 2014 S 16k miles in 2015 for $20k, and the Pro-4x I looked at (and in retrospect should have bought) with 16k miles was $26k. But with all the mods I've done....

EDIT: The only thing that bothers me about it is where they re-mounted the rear license plate (on the hatch). Wonder if that is permanent and lighted. Although there appears to be holes in the bumper where it could be mounted and just use some lights down there. Hopefully that is just a dealer magnetic plate.
 
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reaver

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I'd look at the first one personally if you were planning on outfitting it. While it's $24k you can start deducting all of the things you'd add anyways...with a little premium for not having to wait.

Took a look at their website... for upgrades that I could see... the front bumper, rear bumper (looks like it was a tire swing model that someone removed the swing...wonder if you could get it replaced), MK84 suspension, sliders, 2 x DepHep MOLLE panels, I believe UCA's, and an ARB rear differential cover. Looks like the last owner removed the boob lights. Looking at $3-4k in mods if you were to buy new and not having to wait many months for fabrication.

I'll give you it's a little steep in price, but you'd have a well-equipped rig with four recovery points off the lot, which would be in line with some of the other X prices. For comparison I bought my 2014 S 16k miles in 2015 for $20k, and the Pro-4x I looked at (and in retrospect should have bought) with 16k miles was $26k. But with all the mods I've done....

EDIT: The only thing that bothers me about it is where they re-mounted the rear license plate (on the hatch). Wonder if that is permanent and lighted. Although there appears to be holes in the bumper where it could be mounted and just use some lights down there. Hopefully that is just a dealer magnetic plate.
I'll agree with the above. Depending on who made the bumpers, you're looking at a grand each, plus 500 for the sliders. It's definitely already lifted. ucas are another 500 or so. Rear window molle panels are 100 each. So theres 3200 worth of mods you no longer need to do.

Honestly, if I were in the market for a newer one, I'd certainly take a look at it.
 
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BarryD

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I'd look at the first one personally if you were planning on outfitting it. While it's $24k you can start deducting all of the things you'd add anyways...with a little premium for not having to wait.

Took a look at their website... for upgrades that I could see... the front bumper, rear bumper (looks like it was a tire swing model that someone removed the swing...wonder if you could get it replaced), MK84 suspension, sliders, 2 x DepHep MOLLE panels, I believe UCA's, and an ARB rear differential cover. Looks like the last owner removed the boob lights. Looking at $3-4k in mods if you were to buy new and not having to wait many months for fabrication.

I'll give you it's a little steep in price, but you'd have a well-equipped rig with four recovery points off the lot, which would be in line with some of the other X prices. For comparison I bought my 2014 S 16k miles in 2015 for $20k, and the Pro-4x I looked at (and in retrospect should have bought) with 16k miles was $26k. But with all the mods I've done....

EDIT: The only thing that bothers me about it is where they re-mounted the rear license plate (on the hatch). Wonder if that is permanent and lighted. Although there appears to be holes in the bumper where it could be mounted and just use some lights down there. Hopefully that is just a dealer magnetic plate.
I’m hoping it’s still there in a few weeks, I’m not ready to pull the trigger right this minute. I basically was looking just to see what was out there. I love that you can identify all the mods, I’ll definitely be hitting you up when it comes time to buy and make my mod selections! Thanks so much! And Happy New Year!
 
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BarryD

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I'd look at the first one personally if you were planning on outfitting it. While it's $24k you can start deducting all of the things you'd add anyways...with a little premium for not having to wait.

Took a look at their website... for upgrades that I could see... the front bumper, rear bumper (looks like it was a tire swing model that someone removed the swing...wonder if you could get it replaced), MK84 suspension, sliders, 2 x DepHep MOLLE panels, I believe UCA's, and an ARB rear differential cover. Looks like the last owner removed the boob lights. Looking at $3-4k in mods if you were to buy new and not having to wait many months for fabrication.

I'll give you it's a little steep in price, but you'd have a well-equipped rig with four recovery points off the lot, which would be in line with some of the other X prices. For comparison I bought my 2014 S 16k miles in 2015 for $20k, and the Pro-4x I looked at (and in retrospect should have bought) with 16k miles was $26k. But with all the mods I've done....

EDIT: The only thing that bothers me about it is where they re-mounted the rear license plate (on the hatch). Wonder if that is permanent and lighted. Although there appears to be holes in the bumper where it could be mounted and just use some lights down there. Hopefully that is just a dealer magnetic plate.
Plus I’m in Alabama. So I’d have to find someone local to go check it out and then hire transport for it to be shipped. I’m a firm believer that when it’s the right time, things will fall into place. I’m not in a super huge hurry, I just want to get a good, solid rig that will last for years to come.
 

TerryD

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Be careful with that first red one. No roof boobs (driving lights on the roof). ALL P4X came with those. Verify that it has the locker in the rear axle and isn't an SE with P4X badging and tires.