Tacoma Overland Drawer 2.0 PullKitchen project

[Little Lost in the Woods]

Are we talking hundreds, sub $1000, over a $1000?

 

[PapaDave]

Are we talking hundreds, sub $1000, over a $1000?

Materials alone are a couple thousand

 

[egilbe]

Materials alone are a couple thousand

At least. I answered your survey. I thought $2000 was a fair and reasonable price. Then I started pricing out parts and think $4000 is probably closer to fair

 

[PapaDave]

At least. I answered your survey. I thought $2000 was a fair and reasonable price. Then I started pricing out parts and think $4000 is probably closer to fair

Haha thank you. Yeah I was oblivious to the cost of things as well. Stuff ain’t cheap

 

[PapaDave]

We were highlighted by Overland Expo! Pretty excited about it

Best Overlanding Fridges, Coolers, and Camp Kitchens — Overland Expo®

Having a well sorted, well stocked overlanding kitchen can make or break an adventure. Arguably, quality food preservation and preparation is the building block of any overland rig. These are our favorite fridges, coolers, and camp kitchens for overlanding.

www.overlandexpo.com

 

[RussellRobertson]

So Michael's youtube walk through of Dave's kitchen set up is the reason that I joined Overland Bound today. I bet I have watched that video 10 times. I am just starting to design a MUCH simpler setup for my Tundra. While I would love to have Dave's setup, living in the Midwest and frequently needing my truck bed to be free, I am looking into more of a 8020 Drawer system.

My question, given cost of heavy duty drawer glides is so astronomical, is the 8020 material strong enough to support the weight of a (mostly) fully extended 6ft drawer, without the use of a heavy duty drawer glide? I am thinking of trying to use some of the glides and/or roller wheels from 8020 to allow the aluminum drawer to easily slide on the aluminum frame. A stopper of some sort could keep the drawer from extending too far out of the frame. I am thinking of using 1020 turned on end (so 1 inch wide and 2 inches tall) to form the base of the drawer and minimize deflection. I am in the very early stages of design, but am curious about the strength of the material. I have attached a very simple sketch as an aid to visualize my question. It is a side view (sort of), haha.

Any thoughts on the viability of this, from those that have some experience with this material?

 

[egilbe]

So Michael's youtube walk through of Dave's kitchen set up is the reason that I joined Overland Bound today. I bet I have watched that video 10 times. I am just starting to design a MUCH simpler setup for my Tundra. While I would love to have Dave's setup, living in the Midwest and frequently needing my truck bed to be free, I am looking into more of a 8020 Drawer system.

My question, given cost of heavy duty drawer glides is so astronomical, is the 8020 material strong enough to support the weight of a (mostly) fully extended 6ft drawer, without the use of a heavy duty drawer glide? I am thinking of trying to use some of the glides and/or roller wheels from 8020 to allow the aluminum drawer to easily slide on the aluminum frame. A stopper of some sort could keep the drawer from extending too far out of the frame. I am thinking of using 1020 turned on end (so 1 inch wide and 2 inches tall) to form the base of the drawer and minimize deflection. I am in the very early stages of design, but am curious about the strength of the material. I have attached a very simple sketch as an aid to visualize my question. It is a side view (sort of), haha.

Any thoughts on the viability of this, from those that have some experience with this material?

That's funny, because that's why I joined, too.

I was thinking the 10/30 would be strong enough. Build a frame to hold the fridge and a set of cabinets that could be hinged and folded/flipped out to create flat surface. I'm still in the dreaming/planning/saving money stage. Still doodling. Maybe use the door slides as a poor man's drawer glide, but I don't think that would be a very durable solution. Maybe teflon slides.

 

[PapaDave]

Hey Russell

I am glad that the video inspired you, good to hear. To be clear my kitchen pulls out in about one minute of time. It was designed to go in and out as 99% of the time I am not off roading. The aluminum is strong but it does deflect and to counteract that I built in an angled approach to the drawer of about 1” rear to front. The end closest to the tailgate is 1” higher than the rear. Rollers might work but won’t get you full extension. However 80/20 makes some linear bearings that might help as well in your design.

 

[egilbe]

Hey Russell

I am glad that the video inspired you, good to hear. To be clear my kitchen pulls out in about one minute of time. It was designed to go in and out as 99% of the time I am not off roading. The aluminum is strong but it does deflect and to counteract that I built in an angled approach to the drawer of about 1” rear to front. The end closest to the tailgate is 1” higher than the rear. Rollers might work but won’t get you full extension. However 80/20 makes some linear bearings that might help as well in your design.

ARRGGHHhh! Stop taunting me with that video!

 

[Boort]

My question, given cost of heavy duty drawer glides is so astronomical, is the 8020 material strong enough to support the weight of a (mostly) fully extended 6ft drawer, without the use of a heavy duty drawer glide? I am thinking of trying to use some of the glides and/or roller wheels from 8020 to allow the aluminum drawer to easily slide on the aluminum frame. A stopper of some sort could keep the drawer from extending too far out of the frame. I am thinking of using 1020 turned on end (so 1 inch wide and 2 inches tall) to form the base of the drawer and minimize deflection. I am in the very early stages of design, but am curious about the strength of the material. I have attached a very simple sketch as an aid to visualize my question. It is a side view (sort of), haha.

Any thoughts on the viability of this, from those that have some experience with this material?

On my sleeping platform/drawer system the heavy duty drawer glides were 1/3rd of the overall weight just over 1/2 the project cost.
On previous builds I've used:

• No slides, Just plywood drawers in boxes. These work well and can last a long time but you only get 3/4 use of the drawers and large drawers get heavy fast and can become tiring to open and shut.
• No slides + HDPE drawer slide tape. Same as above but helps with sliding heavy drawers.
• OpenRail Linear Rail slides like butter but still lose easy access to the back 1/4 of the drawer. I made the top of the platform openable to solve this. Also can lose a full 1" on each side of the drawer depending on how you mount the railing and wheels.

Others have used 10/40 extrusions with skate bearings, or even steel box + bearings for big drawers (See Pask Makes Youtube for an example ). It can absolutely be done DIY.

The manufactured slides PapaDave uses provide the sweet spot between space utilization ~3/4" per side and ease of use. Plus you get lock in lock out and safety stop features built in to the slides rather than taking up space elsewhere. Trade off is time + ease of use vs $ and available skills/tools.

Boort

 

[RussellRobertson]

On my sleeping platform/drawer system the heavy duty drawer glides were 1/3rd of the overall weight just over 1/2 the project cost.
On previous builds I've used:

• No slides, Just plywood drawers in boxes. These work well and can last a long time but you only get 3/4 use of the drawers and large drawers get heavy fast and can become tiring to open and shut.
• No slides + HDPE drawer slide tape. Same as above but helps with sliding heavy drawers.
• OpenRail Linear Rail slides like butter but still lose easy access to the back 1/4 of the drawer. I made the top of the platform openable to solve this. Also can lose a full 1" on each side of the drawer depending on how you mount the railing and wheels.

Others have used 10/40 extrusions with skate bearings, or even steel box + bearings for big drawers (See Pask Makes Youtube for an example ). It can absolutely be done DIY.

The manufactured slides PapaDave uses provide the sweet spot between space utilization ~3/4" per side and ease of use. Plus you get lock in lock out and safety stop features built in to the slides rather than taking up space elsewhere. Trade off is time + ease of use vs $ and available skills/tools.

Boort

Thanks for the information. I did run across this build as well. I was actually ready to head down this road, with plywood and skateboard bearings, until I saw Dave's build. I've got quite a bit of woodworking experience, but the aluminum seems like a superior product in the end, if the cost can be absorbed and justified.

I have even contemplated a mixture of an 8020 frame, using the skateboard bearings and box tube for the drawer "glides". Seems like you could mount the skateboard bearings to the Extruded Aluminum (although you would probably need 2 additional 6ft pieces per side which puts you in the ball park of the heavy duty drawer pull price range). Now that I have access to this forum, seems like I am going to need to do quite a bit of researching to see what others have came up with.

Thanks,
Russell

 

[PapaDave]

This is my new drawer, we are building the brushed aluminum right now for a test unit

 

[Boort]

Thanks for the information. I did run across this build as well. I was actually ready to head down this road, with plywood and skateboard bearings, until I saw Dave's build. I've got quite a bit of woodworking experience, but the aluminum seems like a superior product in the end, if the cost can be absorbed and justified.

I have even contemplated a mixture of an 8020 frame, using the skateboard bearings and box tube for the drawer "glides". Seems like you could mount the skateboard bearings to the Extruded Aluminum (although you would probably need 2 additional 6ft pieces per side which puts you in the ball park of the heavy duty drawer pull price range). Now that I have access to this forum, seems like I am going to need to do quite a bit of researching to see what others have came up with.

Thanks,
Russell

@RussellRobertson

Look for PapaDaves earlier v1 build. (Overland Camping Drawer v1.0- Photo heavy) The first version was built from wood. For a drawer that will be exposed to the elements I'd agree that Aluminum would be the superior product. but if it will be under a camper shell or in the back of an SUV then it becomes more nuanced and your priorities will need to determine what 's best for your usage.

Sounds like you made the same calculation I did. I could not justify going with the 80/20 (or any the other Ext. Aluminum brands noted in earlier posts) due to cost. The sticks of extruded aluminum are about the same cost as plywood, but as soon as you get in to all of the corners, brackets etc the price goes north rather quickly. There are various ways to trim costs depending on your requirements. IE: Can you do w/o the 3axis rounded corners and go with butt joints? Do you want to drill and tap as needed or pay to have them done at the factory?

I've used extruded aluminum for CNC projects, Highly used Jigs, other similar things but could not justify for this project. Buying the heavy duty slides took me a while to justify but I don't regret doing it.

My plywood drawer and platform came in at 150 lbs and just under $800. If I were to remake the drawer system for my 4runner (or another rig) I might go with a frame and panel design similar to what you get from 80/20 but with hardwood and 1/4" ply, or cut 3/8 or 1/2" ply on a CNC router so i can skeletonize it to drop weight. Might even cut more weight by building the drawers from Coroplast with reinforcement from Aluminum angle profile in strategic areas then top hanging them from the drawer slides.

Boort

 

[PapaDave]

@RussellRobertson

Look for PapaDaves earlier v1 build. (Overland Camping Drawer v1.0- Photo heavy) The first version was built from wood. For a drawer that will be exposed to the elements I'd agree that Aluminum would be the superior product. but if it will be under a camper shell or in the back of an SUV then it becomes more nuanced and your priorities will need to determine what 's best for your usage.

Sounds like you made the same calculation I did. I could not justify going with the 80/20 (or any the other Ext. Aluminum brands noted in earlier posts) due to cost. The sticks of extruded aluminum are about the same cost as plywood, but as soon as you get in to all of the corners, brackets etc the price goes north rather quickly. There are various ways to trim costs depending on your requirements. IE: Can you do w/o the 3axis rounded corners and go with butt joints? Do you want to drill and tap as needed or pay to have them done at the factory?

I've used extruded aluminum for CNC projects, Highly used Jigs, other similar things but could not justify for this project. Buying the heavy duty slides took me a while to justify but I don't regret doing it.

My plywood drawer and platform came in at 150 lbs and just under $800. If I were to remake the drawer system for my 4runner (or another rig) I might go with a frame and panel design similar to what you get from 80/20 but with hardwood and 1/4" ply, or cut 3/8 or 1/2" ply on a CNC router so i can skeletonize it to drop weight. Might even cut more weight by building the drawers from Coroplast with reinforcement from Aluminum angle profile in strategic areas then top hanging them from the drawer slides.

Boort

Good advice

 

[RussellRobertson]

This is my new drawer, we are building the brushed aluminum right now for a test unitView attachment 155173View attachment 155174

Man, that brushed aluminum is Purdy! Awesome work Dave!

 

[Little Lost in the Woods]

This is an amazing idea and your amazing for sharing the plans with us... I may attempt to build one myself, or just order one when you start building them. Does he new design your going with change the foot print in the bed compared to the schematics you posted?

 

[PapaDave]

This is an amazing idea and your amazing for sharing the plans with us... I may attempt to build one myself, or just order one when you start building them. Does he new design your going with change the foot print in the bed compared to the schematics you posted?

Thanks!
The mount is completely redesigned, the drawer now has the slides hidden inside, power and water are managed differently, but it worked awesome as designed in these plans. Of course the new designs are better :)

 

[Little Lost in the Woods]

Thanks!
The mount is completely redesigned, the drawer now has the slides hidden inside, power and water are managed differently, but it worked awesome as designed in these plans. Of course the new designs are better :)
View attachment 156969

And like everybody else on here, we are both anxiously waiting for and dreading the price! Lol

 

[PapaDave]

And like everybody else on here, we are both anxiously waiting for and dreading the price! Lol

Producing and building in the USA isn’t cheap, and it’s made from all aluminum-stainless steel-HDPE-composite materials. So unfortunately it will price some people out for sure. Hard to meet everyone’s needs when some want a turnkey product and others are on a tight budget. But either way we just wanna see people get out and see the world whetther they buy it or build it!

 

[Little Lost in the Woods]

You are not wrong, but that's why you were awesome enough to give out the basic designs. I have looked into the cost of your designs and the materials ain't cheap. Luckily for me I have several projects ahead of the kitchen on the list. You know, like a place to sleep now that I have a truck... Lol