Starting My Project Build From Scratch.

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Old Griz

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My tongue is adjustable length and uses a removable pintle hitch, when the pintle is removed the pin lock is reinstalled for a little more anti-theft protection, Ron
I saw one a while back where the builder did a backwards pintle. The eye was on the truck and the clasp part was on the trailer, hard to steal that one.
 
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Caddis

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It's been a busy couple of weeks for me with work, sports for the kids, a few trips here and there. Priced out a peice of stainless steel for the drop down table on the back of my tailgate. Started adding the top supports to the rack of the RTT . Ended cutting the fenders to spread the distance for the tires. Pictures to come. May add the adjustable coupler for the pintle in the next couple of days.Resized952018022195163850958477.jpg
 

Caddis

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I got my stainless steel table. I need to build a frame for it now. I'm almost to the point of making my decision on whether to powder coat, or have the trailer Line X. Any pros, or cons on either?
 

ArkansasDon

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on my build, it was a year planning before I started. The build then took 9 1\2 months to do. The only regret or change I have on mine is using a Anchor Mountain tub instead of the Dinoot.
I didn't like was the bottom of the tailgate opening on the Dinoot M416, it is 2 7\8" higher than the floor of the tub which make it impossible to slide your gear out directly onto the tailgate. Example, my Engel 22qt 12v fridg\freez is 41lbs empty & it makes it tough lifting it out on to the tailgate. Picture this, the tailgate in the open position laying horizontal reaching over the tailgate & lifting a 41 lb item about 3" up over this area on to the tailgate, or even from the side reaching over the top rails. I feel this design problem shirks any plans to have a slide out kitchen or in my case a slide out fridg\freez which I was hoping for. Which came to a picture of a Army OD Green Dinoot M416 on another forum (the owner of Dinoot) with the bed flush with the tailgate which made "me" believe the bed floor was flush with the tailgate to begin with when I first thought about ordering the Dinoot M416 kit.
That's is only change I would make. Everything else for my build is what I wanted & pleased how it all came about. Over all my trailer is awesome.

Your build is well thought out, not rushed. You will get good ideas to add to your build. The quality of your project is awesome. Keep up the great work. If I can add on suggestion, add shocks to your suspension it makes a huge difference.
 

Caddis

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I think I started planning this build about 6 months ago. I finally pulled the trigger in December. I would have been nice to have the trailer on our last trip to Big Sur, but I guess it is what it is.

It did cross my mind to add the shocks I took off of my Tacoma when ibput on the Bilsteins . That may still be an option. Nice call.
 
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SubeeBen

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Awesome craftsmanship !!! Very nice looking , will be following your progress love to see the diy folks on here !
 

Road

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I got my stainless steel table. I need to build a frame for it now. I'm almost to the point of making my decision on whether to powder coat, or have the trailer Line X. Any pros, or cons on either?
Absolutely amazing and professional job you're doing. Very cool looking trailer.

A professionally done Line-X job is wonderful, though on the inside of the trailer, on the tub floor and inside of the tailgate, I sometimes wish my trailer was not Line-x'd, as it can be a bit rough on the bottom of gear sliding in and out. No real problems with it after a bunch of camping over several months, but I suspect over time the bottom of some of my gear, all-weather bags, and Wolf Packs etc will see some wear they may not have had otherwise, possibly even from just abrading while traveling long distances.

It can also be harder to clean and, according to the pro who does the Line-X work for Schutt Industries who made my trailer, takes a good hot steam clean to bring it back to looking new. "I don't mean a home pressure washer" he said, but some big pro steam-cleaning outfit. I'm not too concerned about it looking new, but can understand it being harder to clean.

Everywhere else--on the inside tub walls, upper edges of the tub, everywhere underneath on the frame (I mean everywhere), fenders, complete nose box--I love the Line-X job and am super happy with it. Pics below. The outside walls of the tub are primed with a military primer and ready for topcoat. I'm going to use farm implement paint for that to match whatever color I keep the van.

xv2-cargo_IMG_1817.JPG

xv-2-cargo_IMG_2216.JPG

xv2-allpackedup-IMG_2217.JPG
 
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Caddis

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Thats a great looking trailer! That's the one downfall of line X, I know it is a bit more rough. I could see the line X being tougher to clean, but then, you wouldn't need to worry about it looking clean like powder coating. I think I may name this trailer Winchester. Like I said earlier, I don't think this will ever be completed. Hahahaha!
 
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Road

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Thats a great looking trailer! That's the one downfall of line X, I know it is a bit more rough. I could see the line X being tougher to clean, but then, you wouldn't need to worry about it looking clean like powder coating. I think I may name this trailer Winchester. Like I said earlier, I don't think this will ever be completed. Hahahaha!
Thanks! I love this trailer and don't regret at all choosing to buy one over working on the two military trailers I have (and am now selling), as they are only 1/4 ton, and this one is literally a 1 ton on steroids. Goes so smooth over the road, double wall aluminum construction on the tub, all aluminum huck-bolted frame, etc etc. Got me on the road and camping at least a whole year earlier.

I think with Line-X, especially if done by a pro, you can control the degree of roughness, can't you, so you can do certain surfaces more smoothly? I considered doing my whole van, but in the end did not want the extra weight (that's another consideration if doing the whole trailer inside and out) or the lack of being able to clean it as well. I'll probably do both trailer and van with the same color farm implement paint. Same stuff they use for tractors and combines, etc. Rugged. I don't care about a high shine; just want something durable and that I can touch up every once in a blue moon on my own without any great cost or hassle.

I'll include a pic from Schutt of the underside of the same trailer I have, if that helps you at all. They put them on a spinner when they're working on them. This one shows the mil spec pex-style water and propane lines before the 22 gal water tank and its armor goes on, and the front supports for the nose box. You can also see some of the over 300 huck-bolts. Pretty amazing system, can be dropped out of a helicopter onto the battlefield or into disaster recovery situations.

Good luck with yours man; it's really beautiful and well thought-out. I'll keep checking in to see how it's going.

edit: Oh - you mean like the Winchester House, around San Jose somewhere, isn't it? Never finished, yep. Went there once and was floored by the work, the faux-finished woodwork, and the wild craziness of it all. Quite the place.

XV-2-underside.jpg
 
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Caddis

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2018031095110428.jpg Rear receiver welded on for the bike rack. Then, had to slightly adjust the rear swing out gate. The top rack supports pulled the sides in just enough that the gate wouldn't close smooth enough.
 
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