Started my trailer

[Mark D]

my wife and I decided to try mounting our RRT on a small off road trailer for the less aggressive trails trips. I sketched out some plans and bought the needed steel yesterday. Today I got the basic frame welded together. I will be using trorsion axles to eliminate the axle tube and improve ground clearance. I have choice between 935# springs and 1400#. I am also trying to find a good site that cover trailer geometry. From what I can find there should be 15% of the trailer's gross weight on the tongue. I need help with tongue length. Anyone have any comments?

 

[AZ_Overland]

You have much information left out from your post to help you. First keep in mind torsion axles are none repairable in the field.
Second a solid axle could help protect a water tank if you decide to add one in the future (but so could a skid plate).
Third I would build the trailer and do axles last so you can get a better idea of the total weight of the trailer.
Fourth how you load the trailer can change the tongue weight and this will take some trial and error.
Fifth the length of your tongue should be fairly long to help with trailer stability but keep in mind this area will quickly get loaded up with things like fuel and a trailer box. If you haven't yet welded in the center braces of the trailer I would start with something like 3 feet. You could also make your tongue length adjustable by using slips with bolts just keep in mind it will need to be looked at often and the bolts will need to be replaced every so often.

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[Vyscera]

I would look at factory built trailers of similar length and use those specs as guides.

 

[Knitron]

When I built my trailer I put a 6ft tongue, when I build another one I'll do 5 feet. Plenty of room for battery box and cargo box. You'll find that overland trailers have longer than normal tongues to handle sharper turns better.

 

[Anchor Mtn]

Shorter trailers are harder to back up and harder to balance. Longer trailers are heavier and harder to get down a trail. Finding the balance of "want VS need" is tough and its something you should address before you break out the credit card.

Where are you going to be taking the trailer(graded dirt roads, tight trails, campgrounds)? How much gear do you NEED to put in the trailer? What do you want your trailer to DO for you(Lights, kitchen, water(volume), 12volt/120volt, etc)? Will it be used for sleeping(RTT or teardrop)?

As for design, 10-15% overall tongue weight is best but most of that comes down to good planning while loading a small trailer. I can tell you that if at all possible.... match the track width of your tow vehicle.

 

[Mark D]

Shorter trailers are harder to back up and harder to balance. Longer trailers are heavier and harder to get down a trail. Finding the balance of "want VS need" is tough and its something you should address before you break out the credit card.

Where are you going to be taking the trailer(graded dirt roads, tight trails, campgrounds)? How much gear do you NEED to put in the trailer? What do you want your trailer to DO for you(Lights, kitchen, water(volume), 12volt/120volt, etc)? Will it be used for sleeping(RTT or teardrop)?

As for design, 10-15% overall tongue weight is best but most of that comes down to good planning while loading a small trailer. I can tell you that if at all possible.... match the track width of your tow vehicle.

The main goal of the trailer is to get the RTT a bit closer to the ground. It will be used on graded roads and light trails. We do stay in campgrounds but try to stay away from them. I have a 12 gallon water tank mounted on the roof rack for showers that I will be moving to the trailer along with the pump and a small 12v battery. No kitchen since that puts the cooking under the tent. Our ice chest will stay in the back of the Rover (bears). Right now the trailer weighs about 200lbs, if I put 300lbs of gear inside I would be surprised (EZ up and a couple folding tables?). I have a few photos I need to post. Thanks for your help and interest.

 

[Mark D]

I promised some photos. Here are the axles I decided on, building the box and it is starting to take shape

 

[Mark D]

 

[Mark D]

 

[Knitron]

Looking good. Keep up the good work and keep us posted.

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[VCeXpedition]

For every foot of box length, the axle center-line should be 1" behind / rearward of the box center-line.
IOW, if you have an 8' box, your axle should be 3'4" from the rear of the box.

Dan.

 

[Mark D]

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[Mark D]

First coat of paint. Should see good progress this week


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[Art]

Its looking really good!

 

[rmerron]

Looking good. Similar to what mine stated out as.

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[Mark D]

Wow, your trailer is really nice. I searched and downloaded as many photos as I could find before I started. I wish I had seen yours. Lots of good ideas there...you might see me steal a few.

 

[rmerron]

That's fine. I have a walk around on YouTube. Just search for Expedition US, the video is called the Chuck Wagon. Let me know if you cannot find it.

 

[Mark D]

Here is my trailer hitch. I copied one I saw on another trailer

 

[Rubiconcruiser]

Good looking rig here. I've done about as many mods as I can without a frame up grade. Steal. Borrow all you need I've got suppliers for everything on a build so if you need or want something I may be able to help


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[Mark D]

Well, finished the trailer and while the paint was still wet we hit the road and made our way to Moab Utah. Nothing quit like a baptism by fire. Two days in and we were on the Lockhart Basin Rd. The trailer performed flawlessly to my surprise and delight. The hitch design was amazing over the rocks. The one important lesson-tie everything down inside the box! Anything that was left unleashed managed to find its way over and destroy the thing next to it.

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