Silverado suspension advice

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Aequitas1916

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Hey all,

I'm looking for some advice on upgrading the rear suspension on my Silverado. A couple years ago, I swapped in some Bilstein 5100s to level out the rear end while gaining some clearance for some new tires. Everything worked fine.

A couple months ago, I replaced my topper with a slightly heavier one, and also added the Decked system to the bed. This didn't cause any major problems, but I've noticed it did put more stress on the rear than I'd like. Finally, I was towing a car and the suspension was basically bottomed out for that.

So, now I'm looking at upgrading the rear suspension. I'm not looking for a lift beyond the level it's at, since I don't do much rock climbing and the clearance I have is good for what I need. But, I do want to be able to tow without bottoming out. Plus with the added weight in back I'd like to give it some reinforcement so it doesn't wear out real fast.

I'm looking at the timbren rubber stop things, roadmaster active suspension, and super springs. But I don't know a ton about suspension. Not sure what issues any of these might cause in an overland application. Any thoughts?
 

ThundahBeagle

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Larger rear blocks? Helwig EZ-990 helper springs? I've not tried them, but highly recommend to me. You may want to look into them or something like them.

BUT BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE...

Just a couple of points for clarification...I also have the Bilstein 5100's. They only level out the front. The rear Bilstein 5100's do nothing at all to the rear, but for the fact that they are a better shock than the Ranchos, and they will accept an inch taller block, if you choose to add one.

Only the front 5100's have multiple height settings and can level out the front. What setting are your front Bilstiens at? If they are set all the way up, you may consider having a shop putting them at a lower, or even at the lowest setting. The lowest setting emulates a stock shock height as if coming from the factory. Putting front Bilstien at the lower settings will restore the standing nose dive to whatever degree you select, however it will be much more forgiving to your towing and hauling cargo.
 
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Boostpowered

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Your rear shocks are probably shot if they are a few years old and all of a sudden aren't working as they should. I f your gonna be hauling alot look into air bag helper springs you can adjust the height while in tow.
 

MMc

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Something to think about. Replace the stock leaf springs with progressive leafs. You’ll go from 4 or 5 leafs to 9 or 10 leafs, the ride is so much better, you might add a 1 or so to the rear. At the same time I added 2.5 Fox to the back and not looked back. The best thing I have done to the truck, hands down.
 
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ThundahBeagle

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I wouldnt be so quick to blame the shocks. They are not what holds up a load. The springs do that. The shock only keeps the tire on the road.

The front 5100's have an adjustable spring perch height. So, when installed, the spring sits higher on the shock than on a stock shock, but the spring is still holding the weight of the truck up.

If @Aequitas1916 has the fronts set to the highest setting, then it levels the truck. Any load in or attached to the back will lower the rear.

Unless @Aequitas1916 is leaving out the possibility that he added blocks to the rear end, then having added 5100's to the rear did not ever lift or level the rear at all. And with the front leveled up (if it is), the rear bumper already tilts down somewhat.

He has a camper shell - as do I. They add some weight. He has a Decked system. Presumably to put stuff in, which I bet he has. The shells are 150 to 200 pounds. The decked system may be 100 pounds, maybe more, I dont know. I dont know what he might have that's heavy in there already, but what I believe is, he didnt start with a rear end as high as he thought he did, because rear 5100's do not level up a truck bed in and of themselves.

If the front Bilstien can be lowered, that may return the truck to 'level' when fully laden with cargo or towing.

If the fronts are already at the lowest setting,
or if lowering doesnt work, then I'd look into the other options
 

RoarinRow

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After I did a lift I noticed there was about an 1" drop in the back (I have a camper shell and gear in the back 24/7). The shop installed an 'add a leaf' kit, which just added another leaf and that leveled everything just the way I wanted. Best $100 spent.
 
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BCMoto

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My friend has the AirLift bags that help with added weight and hes ordering the 5100 also
 
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ThundahBeagle

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I believe those Helwigs I mentioned, allow the truck to remain level as if there is nothing in the bed. So, no lift to the rear. And when the rear is laden, it settles onto the Helwigs which stop it settling any lower. Or something like that
 

Aequitas1916

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I wouldnt be so quick to blame the shocks. They are not what holds up a load. The springs do that. The shock only keeps the tire on the road.

The front 5100's have an adjustable spring perch height. So, when installed, the spring sits higher on the shock than on a stock shock, but the spring is still holding the weight of the truck up.

If @Aequitas1916 has the fronts set to the highest setting, then it levels the truck. Any load in or attached to the back will lower the rear.

Unless @Aequitas1916 is leaving out the possibility that he added blocks to the rear end, then having added 5100's to the rear did not ever lift or level the rear at all. And with the front leveled up (if it is), the rear bumper already tilts down somewhat.

He has a camper shell - as do I. They add some weight. He has a Decked system. Presumably to put stuff in, which I bet he has. The shells are 150 to 200 pounds. The decked system may be 100 pounds, maybe more, I dont know. I dont know what he might have that's heavy in there already, but what I believe is, he didnt start with a rear end as high as he thought he did, because rear 5100's do not level up a truck bed in and of themselves.

If the front Bilstien can be lowered, that may return the truck to 'level' when fully laden with cargo or towing.

If the fronts are already at the lowest setting,
or if lowering doesnt work, then I'd look into the other options
I misspoke in my OP. I did add the 5100s all around, but you're right, they didn't really do much for the ride height in the back. The fronts are at the highest setting, which pretty well levels everything out front to back. The main reason for doing that was to add a little clearance for my tires, as I was getting a little rub with the wheel turned all the way right/left with the stock suspension. I also liked the idea of a simple suspension upgrade with the Bilsteins. At the time, I didn't consider what adding weight to the bed would do in the future, let alone with towing. I don't tow often, but have a cross country move coming up and don't want to do that with the suspension maxed out again like it did when I was towing the car.

I didn't add a block in the rear. I literally didn't do anything but swap out the shocks. So, it looks like the Helwegs are a leaf spring "helper"? Someone also suggested progressive leaf springs. And someone else suggested the air lift bags, which I'd also looked at before. My concern with them was potentially going over rough terrain and getting a puncture somehow. So, if my aim is to get a good suspension upgrade for light offroading AND will keep my suspension from bottoming out when I'm towing, what's the best option? I know these are two different goals, but I have to try and get the best middle option I guess.

Thanks all of you for your help!
 

ThundahBeagle

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I misspoke in my OP. I did add the 5100s all around, but you're right, they didn't really do much for the ride height in the back. The fronts are at the highest setting, which pretty well levels everything out front to back. The main reason for doing that was to add a little clearance for my tires, as I was getting a little rub with the wheel turned all the way right/left with the stock suspension. I also liked the idea of a simple suspension upgrade with the Bilsteins. At the time, I didn't consider what adding weight to the bed would do in the future, let alone with towing. I don't tow often, but have a cross country move coming up and don't want to do that with the suspension maxed out again like it did when I was towing the car.

I didn't add a block in the rear. I literally didn't do anything but swap out the shocks. So, it looks like the Helwegs are a leaf spring "helper"? Someone also suggested progressive leaf springs. And someone else suggested the air lift bags, which I'd also looked at before. My concern with them was potentially going over rough terrain and getting a puncture somehow. So, if my aim is to get a good suspension upgrade for light offroading AND will keep my suspension from bottoming out when I'm towing, what's the best option? I know these are two different goals, but I have to try and get the best middle option I guess.

Thanks all of you for your help!
I did exactly what you did -5100's all around but no block in the back, even the camper shell, but without the decked system. I'm leveled out pretty well and for added clearance, I took of that "chin strap" attached to the bottom of the front bumper.

Since then, the first time I helped my buddy move a load of cinder blocks, I knew I would need something to shore up the rear end if I intended on hauling heavy loads. I got the same responses you got when I checked in on a GM Trucks based forum. Lucky for me, except for some tools and camping gear, I dont often fill the bed to capacity, nor have I towed.

Good luck. I think you have good suggestions here so I'll be watching
 
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Shakes355

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Chevy leafs are interchangeable from '99 up. Each leaf pack has a rated load dependent upon leaf thickness and how many are in a pack.

Most half tons have a 2+1 pack (meaning 2 main springs + the overload spring) rated for between 1700 and 1950 lbs depending on whatever package your truck was equipped with from the factory.

Your options have been covered by the other members here, so I'll just give you my rundown of how each work.

*Option 1: Height (lift blocks)
In essence, your truck sags X-number of inches because of added load so raise it higher without changing how the suspension feels and functions.
-Pros: Inexpensive and simple. Removable.
-Cons: Doesn't address the cause of the problem, only the symptom.

*Option 2: Load assist-Bump stops (Timbren, Sumospring, Airbags)
Springs can be expensive and you want to DIY so you install a load device in place of the bumps. In essence, the devices engage when there is load and assist the springs by absorbing energy. Except air bags- they engage all the time at a rate you control with air pressure.
-Pros: DIY. Cheaper than leafs. Ride quality remains unchanged until they engage. Removable. Maintenance free (except air bags)
-Cons: Air lines can leak and bags can crack over time. Depending on full time load weight, may be engaged at all times. Sumo and timbren are non adjustable.

*Option 3: Load assist-springs (Helper springs, supersprings, Roadmaster)
Add spring rate and increase rated load of the spring pack by adding a device to the outside of the spring pack.
-Pros: Inexpensive enough (100-400). Easily removed. DIY. Stock ride when unloaded. Adjustable.
-Cons: Cant really think of any besides the need to periodically inspect them for tightness and placement.

*Option 4: Modify spring pack (Add-a-leaf, heavier pack)
Permanently increase load capacity by adding leafs individually to the middle of the packs or replacing the whole unit with a larger one.
-Pros: Permanent and maintenance free
-Cons: Permanent. Whole packs can be expensive. Ride quality suffers when unloaded. Labor intensive.

I personally (as stated in another thread) opted to put 2500HD packs in my truck (4+1). I also have SumoSprings.

Cheers
 

MMc

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Chevy leafs are interchangeable from '99 up. Each leaf pack has a rated load dependent upon leaf thickness and how many are in a pack.

Most half tons have a 2+1 pack (meaning 2 main springs + the overload spring) rated for between 1700 and 1950 lbs depending on whatever package your truck was equipped with from the factory.

Your options have been covered by the other members here, so I'll just give you my rundown of how each work.

*Option 1: Height (lift blocks)
In essence, your truck sags X-number of inches because of added load so raise it higher without changing how the suspension feels and functions.
-Pros: Inexpensive and simple. Removable.
-Cons: Doesn't address the cause of the problem, only the symptom.

*Option 2: Load assist-Bump stops (Timbren, Sumospring, Airbags)
Springs can be expensive and you want to DIY so you install a load device in place of the bumps. In essence, the devices engage when there is load and assist the springs by absorbing energy. Except air bags- they engage all the time at a rate you control with air pressure.
-Pros: DIY. Cheaper than leafs. Ride quality remains unchanged until they engage. Removable. Maintenance free (except air bags)
-Cons: Air lines can leak and bags can crack over time. Depending on full time load weight, may be engaged at all times. Sumo and timbren are non adjustable.

*Option 3: Load assist-springs (Helper springs, supersprings, Roadmaster)
Add spring rate and increase rated load of the spring pack by adding a device to the outside of the spring pack.
-Pros: Inexpensive enough (100-400). Easily removed. DIY. Stock ride when unloaded. Adjustable.
-Cons: Cant really think of any besides the need to periodically inspect them for tightness and placement.

*Option 4: Modify spring pack (Add-a-leaf, heavier pack)
Permanently increase load capacity by adding leafs individually to the middle of the packs or replacing the whole unit with a larger one.
-Pros: Permanent and maintenance free
-Cons: Permanent. Whole packs can be expensive. Ride quality suffers when unloaded. Labor intensive.

I personally (as stated in another thread) opted to put 2500HD packs in my truck (4+1). I also have SumoSprings.

Cheers
 

MMc

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Another option is progressive spring pack. Go from a few springs to many springs, each spring is softer but the total pack is the same or greater load. Mine is 10 leafs.
Pro: Great ride when empty and great ride when fully loaded. Permanent, maintenance free.
Cons: expensive or a PITA to self install.
Will ease the truck about a inch or 2 when installed. I love mine.