RZFZJ80’s 97 Land Cruiser Build and Adventure Thread

[RZFZJ80]

Thank you^

Since the catch can seemed to work well I decided to install a nicer, more permanent setup. I used an existing stud on the ABS mount and it worked perfectly.



I also love the older FJ grills, so I frankensteined an a 70 series badge on an early 80 series grill. Everything worked well with relatively minor modification.

 

[Wile_Coyote]

I've always loved this FJ80 cruisers, and with the factory lockers you can't go wrong. The biggest bonus to these model cruisers are the full floater rear axles. Full floaters in the rear place the weight of the vehicle on the bearings, instead of the axle shafts. Most 1/2 ton rigs (which is all Tacomas, Tundras, F150, Silverado 1500) have 1/2 ton rated axles that carry the weight on the axle shaft, instead of bearings, like 3/4 ton and 1 ton rigs. I've thought about going this route, but I already have a truck that has a rated payload of 1700 lbs, even though the axles are C-Clip design.
Either way, you made a nice score with the Land Cruiser. Great engines, and as we have all seen, if taken care of, they last a very long time.

 

[Wile_Coyote]

What is the function of the ih8mud devise ? Is that it in the picture ? How would air/oil get into the fuel system ?

Oil Catch cans are a must have for DI (Direct Injection) engines. My '17 Silverado is a DI engine, which means the fuel is directly injected into the cylinders, bypassing the intake valves. As opposed to injecting the fuel into the intake manifold, which then allows the fuel to wash over the intake valves, cleaning any oil residue off the valve heads. DI engines, to promote better fuel economy, power, etc, use the DI, the PVC valve routes crankcase fumes and oil up into the intake manifold, which then sends that stuff down past the intake valves, and ultimately coats the valves, and thus causing coking, or clogging up of the valves. It's a nasty mess.
Every 5k miles I change my oil, and drain my Elite Engineering catch can. This is the stuff that it catches.

imagine this stuff coating the top of the valves and the valve seats, which eventually cooks onto the valves, and prevents the valves from properly sealing up. Manufactures should install catch-cans in all DI engines, but that would cost more money, and would make their engines last longer. The other side of the coin is that, when you engine starts to stumble and have issues, most folks would take it back to the Stealership for repairs, and that's more money for the manufacturer. Gotta watch em, and do what you can to curb the manufacturers appetite for your money.

 

[RZFZJ80]

I also took this opportunity to install a Wits-End modified blue fan clutch. Its an OEM Aisin unit with a higher CST oil installed and valve plate advanced so that at any given temperature more oil is being sheared. A larger charge of oil is introduced to the clutch to support the fact that more oil is being sheared. Since cooling is critical with these engines I want to make sure everything is as good as it can be.

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

Oil Catch cans are a must have for DI (Direct Injection) engines. My '17 Silverado is a DI engine, which means the fuel is directly injected into the cylinders, bypassing the intake valves. As opposed to injecting the fuel into the intake manifold, which then allows the fuel to wash over the intake valves, cleaning any oil residue off the valve heads. DI engines, to promote better fuel economy, power, etc, use the DI, the PVC valve routes crankcase fumes and oil up into the intake manifold, which then sends that stuff down past the intake valves, and ultimately coats the valves, and thus causing coking, or clogging up of the valves. It's a nasty mess.
Every 5k miles I change my oil, and drain my Elite Engineering catch can. This is the stuff that it catches.

imagine this stuff coating the top of the valves and the valve seats, which eventually cooks onto the valves, and prevents the valves from properly sealing up. Manufactures should install catch-cans in all DI engines, but that would cost more money, and would make their engines last longer. The other side of the coin is that, when you engine starts to stumble and have issues, most folks would take it back to the Stealership for repairs, and that's more money for the manufacturer. Gotta watch em, and do what you can to curb the manufacturers appetite for your money.

Thanks, you just educated an idiot. I need to add that to two of my vehicles. Is their a kit that can bd bought ?

 

[RZFZJ80]

seperator is a popular mod on superchrged 80s its a must. looks great brother. View attachment 118305

Sweet rig. Is that a fold out rear window in the back?

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

seperator is a popular mod on superchrged 80s its a must. looks great brother. View attachment 118305

People want to define the word "OVERLANDING", this IS the defined word !
One look and I know where this guy is going !!

 

[RZFZJ80]

Over the weekend I wired up an Aux radiator fan. LCP makes a kit that is virtually plug and play. Seems like a worthwhile mod for keeping things cool while traveling slowly.



While everything was apart, I took the opportunity to do the 'Pin 7' mod. This, in conjunction with my center lock switch, gives me full control over the center locking diff. I can now have the truck in high or low range and manually enable the diff lock via the switch.

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

Over the weekend I wired up an Aux radiator fan. LCP makes a kit that is virtually plug and play. Seems like a worthwhile mod for keeping things cool while traveling slowly.

View attachment 118822View attachment 118824

While everything was apart, I took the opportunity to do the 'Pin 7' mod. This, in conjunction with my center lock switch, gives me full control over the center locking diff. I can now have the truck in high or low range and manually enable the diff lock via the switch.

View attachment 118823

A pun "COOL MAN"... good mod every one should do (especially Land Rovers)

 

[KonzaLander]

Beautiful 80 @RZFZJ80 ! A clean, white cruiser is hard to beat. Keep up the good work.

 

[RZFZJ80]

I decided to build a rack mount for my gear cases because I was tired of messing with ratchet straps. I used some aluminum flat bar bent to shape and drilled to accept t-studs for the rack. Then I installed a rivnut in each case with silicone and secured each with threaded star knobs.





I also fixed the rusted and missing rear swing out strut mounts using aluminum rivnuts.



And finally, I replaced the rest of the exhaust system. The truck is rust free, but the exhaust had seen better days.

 

[Wile_Coyote]

nice.
Your transfer-case output shaft seal could use a replacement. Other than that, it looks pretty clean.

 

[RZFZJ80]

nice.
Your transfer-case output shaft seal could use a replacement. Other than that, it looks pretty clean.

Good call! I’ll have to look into that soon.

 

[RZFZJ80]

Well, I found time over the weekend to install some parts that trickled in over the past week. First up, the ARB snorkel. I debated for a while whether or not to drop the $$ or buy a knock off, but in the end I wanted to do it right. Install was fairly straight forward and everything went well. It was tough to start drilling though...


Then I installed an awning I found on Amazon. It seems well built and sturdy. I figure if it gets used enough to wear out I’ll replace it with one of the name brands.


I also picked up a mirror adapter from Wits End and an auto dimming/home link/compass Gentex rear view mirror. Fairly trivial to bolt the new bracket in and wire it up.


And finally, I installed a panel that replaced the useless cup holder cubby. I plan to mount my scan gauge there eventually.

 

[Ob1]

Hey mate,

Great rig! I am updating my truck with the oil trap. Great idea. Also, how do you like your Bowfin rack?

I think the 80 is the best all around vehicle in the Landcruiser family. The 70 series are a bit more built for off road, but harder to drive on pavement. We had ours since 1998. Bought it when was 5 years old and decided to invest in it last year when the engine needed work. I wrote a blog on this forum about the build. Converted it into a full camper with kitchen, bed and hot shower. No tent roof.

Part of the build was to replace the engine with a Toyota turbo diesel engine and a 5 speed manual trans. It was a bit more expensive but no more smog here in CA and better milage (21-26 mpg).

 

[RZFZJ80]

Hey mate,

Great rig! I am updating my truck with the oil trap. Great idea. Also, how do you like your Bowfin rack?

I think the 80 is the best all around vehicle in the Landcruiser family. The 70 series are a bit more built for off road, but harder to drive on pavement. We had ours since 1998. Bought it when was 5 years old and decided to invest in it last year when the engine needed work. I wrote a blog on this forum about the build. Converted it into a full camper with kitchen, bed and hot shower. No tent roof.

Part of the build was to replace the engine with a Toyota turbo diesel engine and a 5 speed manual trans. It was a bit more expensive but no more smog here in CA and better milage (21-26 mpg).

Thanks and same to you! I actually just finished reading through your blog a couple days ago and you did amazing work. Some of your projects have inspired me to rethink some of my build, although I still plan to use a RTT. Once this engine fails I'm going to follow in your footsteps and replace it with a 1HDFT (although I supposed I had better start the hunt soon judging by your experience).

The Bowfin rack is amazing. Light weight, sturdy, and easy to customize to my needs. I really like the 80/20 design and being able to slide the cross rails around. I've been able to fabricate simple brackets for basically everything.

 

[Ob1]

I was debating between the Bowfin and Prinsu. I may have made a mistake... I think the Bowfin attaches more elegantly.

 

[RZFZJ80]

Which reminds me- I've made a few changes/additions recently:
I 3D printed a Scangauge mount that fits under the center dash area. Much easier to read and route the cord (although I haven't done that yet). Also in the pic: retrofitted Land Rover Cup Holder.



While I was at it, I 3D printed a ARB diff breather mount to make use of existing holes in the firewall and mounted it with aluminum rivets

View attachment 124733

I found a great deal locally on an Engel fridge/freezer and have started to design a rear storage system using aluminum and Front Runner WolfPacks. More on that later.



Now that I'm incorporating a fridge into my rig I've started thinking about power and dual battery systems...funny how one thing seems to lead to another. I mounted one solar panel to the rack and am working on the dual battery system. I will probably go with an iKamper RTT whcih will take up my entire rack so I may have to rethink the solar setup.



and finally, I found a set of matte gray TRD Pro wheels and they mounted up perfectly, although I cannot use the OE center caps

View attachment 124734

 

[RZFZJ80]

I was debating between the Bowfin and Prinsu. I may have made a mistake... I think the Bowfin attaches more elegantly.

I was between the two as well, but the latch system sold me on the Bowfin. Plus, I wanted to support someone basically building them out of his garage as a hobby.

 

[Ob1]

Any idea how much you have invested already?