Rust - how to stop it from spreading

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Andy G

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Really digging my Trooper. Pretty solid for a rust belt rig.

Only have 2 trouble spots, both in tough to repair places.

Any suggestions how to handle these spots to stop things from getting worse? Repairing it is most likely out of my league and too expensive so I just wanna delay the spread.

Thanks!




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Saints&Sailors

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Pathfinder I

In my experience, rust is like cancer - you can sand it off, cut it off, etc. but it will keep coming back. Your best hope is to just slow it down as much as possible. A couple options:
  1. My brother has used POR15 and had a good experience. It's a lot of work though and may be somewhat difficult with where your rust is located. Perhaps others on the forum can share their experience.
  2. I've used a disc grinder and wire wheel to remove as much rust as I could and then sprayed the area with a Rustoleum rubberized undercoating. This seemed to slow it down but once every 18 months or so crawl underneath my Jeep and touch-up any spots that appear to be coming back. It's a never ending battle.
It looks like yours might be rusting from the inside out so you need to get behind the panels and treat it there.

Hopefully, this helps! Good luck and let us know what you end up doing/the results.
 

WE ROME

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The topic of "rust" is a relative term in that if you own a rust free vehicle you want to keep it at bay, but if you have a vehicle with rust, then how much rust can be anything from rusted floors, hood, doors, rockers, to only surface rust on your frame. It all depends on where you live and how you take care of your vehicle.

The problem is that with most (all?) vehicles today they have inner and outer panels, so you can say your vehicle is rust free, but behind those fenders, etc., where you canNOT see there can be a little bit of rust, or just a wee distance behind that outer panel can also be a lot of rust.

SO I owned a Toyota FJ55 Land Cruiser that had the rust as depicted in my first sentence (everywhere). I finally sold it to a farmer who would only run it on his farm as the running gear was fine, but it had holes "everywhere".

SO I was VERY motivated to preserve my next purchase, an '86 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60. So over several years, I bought cases of Penray Chain Lube #7006 because it sprays on as a liquid and flows nicely, but then becomes sticky. I sprayed it everywhere, removing side marker lights, headlights, rear lights, using the "straw" to spray it up into the weep holes for the rockers, doors, etc. until it leaked out onto the ground. And I did this yearly; this vehicle is now rust free in spite of driving it for years in eastern Pennsylvania winters. I also washed the underside of the vehicle in the winters, especially in the rear area fender wells, fenders and rear bumper where the tires throw up road salt.

I now use Fluid Film for the same purpose. It flows into corners and nooks and crannies. Great stuff.

Where I do have rust (on another vehicle) I de-rust, apply metal prep by POR-15, then apply POR-15 to the surface, it hardens like iron.
 

McCannUSA

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Number 1 way to stop rust, live in California! lol. In all seriousness rust is tough once it's gotten to the point it is on your rig. To slow it down you have to treat both sides of the effected area and as WE ROME said there will be inner panels that you can't get to (especially in the rocker panel area). As a former body man my humble suggestion would be to clean any loose rust off that you can get to, try to get an air hose and blow out the inside of the panel as best as possible to get rid of any loose rust, dirt, and moisture. Buy a couple cans of expandable foam from your local home store. Get the high expanding one as opposed to the low expanding type. Fill inside your rocker panels as best as possible and let it expand out of all the exposed holes. This will keep moisture from getting back into the area. After it dries, remove the excess that has flowed out. Now use POR-15 (POR= Pour over rust) to coat all exposed rust and over the top of the foam that will be visible through the rust areas. Coat the back side of any rust areas you can get to with POR-15. The POR-15 is black, so if that will bug you, I would also get some spray paint that matches your trucks color and paint over the POR-15 once it dries. Good luck my friend!
*quick note* if you use the POR-15, get gloves and a tarp. POR-15 does not come off your hands or the ground!
 
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WE ROME

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Traveler III

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See previous insightful post.

POR-15 IS available in colors. It is amazing stuff, tough as nails.
 

Andy G

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Number 1 way to stop rust, live in California! lol. In all seriousness rust is tough once it's gotten to the point it is on your rig. To slow it down you have to treat both sides of the effected area and as WE ROME said there will be inner panels that you can't get to (especially in the rocker panel area). As a former body man my humble suggestion would be to clean any loose rust off that you can get to, try to get an air hose and blow out the inside of the panel as best as possible to get rid of any loose rust, dirt, and moisture. Buy a couple cans of expandable foam from your local home store. Get the high expanding one as opposed to the low expanding type. Fill inside your rocker panels as best as possible and let it expand out of all the exposed holes. This will keep moisture from getting back into the area. After it dries, remove the excess that has flowed out. Now use POR-15 (POR= Pour over rust) to coat all exposed rust and over the top of the foam that will be visible through the rust areas. Coat the back side of any rust areas you can get to with POR-15. The POR-15 is black, so if that will bug you, I would also get some spray paint that matches your trucks color and paint over the POR-15 once it dries. Good luck my friend!
*quick note* if you use the POR-15, get gloves and a tarp. POR-15 does not come off your hands or the ground!
That's awesome - thank you!!!
 

jordan04gx

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Fluid Film.

I keep the underside of my vehicle, and the inside of accessible panels drenched in the stuff. Any time I take things apart during wrenching, it gets treated with more when putting back together. It stops rust that was pre-existing. And keeps new stuff from starting. If I was doing something interior, I would probably use something like por-15 after prepping the area, and then attempt to Fluid Film the backside of the repair using whatever means necessary. For things that have 2 sides, the rust will start on the inside and come out just as easily as starting on the outside and go in. So regardless of product, you can never just treat the side you see. When corrosion starts from the inside of a panel, it will be truly bad by the time you become aware of it.

My rig is a 80 miles / day daily driver in the seriously salt covered rust belt. If I didn't drench in Fluid Film, it wouldn't last 5 years before having serious frame problems. As it is, I'm keeping it at bay, and it is in the same condition it is when I bought it 3 winters ago.