Rust help

[FatUncleSalty]

Hey all. Wondering if anyone knows someone in SoCal (or driving distance) who would be good to hire to deal with frame and suspension rust on my ‘99 100 series land cruiser? I will likely have to do it myself, but am trying to find someone reasonable to work on it for me.

Would involve cleaning off all visible rust with air chisel and angle grinder, also using a tool to get inside the frame as well (I would make it if need be), using an induction bolt heater to get rusty bolts loose, taking off all plates, suspension parts and brake lines that will be replaced, treating the whole thing, inside and outside the frame, as well as undercarriage, then putting on the new suspension and brake lines.

If you happen to know someone up for that task who would treat my LC like their own and do a great job, I would love to talk to them.

I don’t want to sell this to someone without them knowing the issues—I’m not cool with that morally, so I just have to fix it.

Thank you!

 

[Billiebob]

Rust is an endless money pit. If you want to sell it...... part it out or just be honest.
Will it pass an inspection? If yes you have zero reason to worry.
Used cars are always buyer beware.

You will never come out ahead if you "invest" in rust repair to sell.

Just went to Bring a Trailer, The best 100 Series Land Cruisers with zero rust and zero rust repair, looking like they are still parked in the showroom sell for $30K. And they are low mile all original. The average great looking used 100 Series sells for $15K, most sell for under $10K. Do not spend a penny unless you love it and want to keep it forever.

If you want to sell it, sell it and buyer beware. It is a 22 year old SUV, just move on.

 

[smritte]

So........how much you want to spend?
Figure around $80 an hour X possibly a hundred hours or more. Two guys, five days is eighty hours. Remove body, strip frame, sand blast or acid dip, replace all hardware, replace all parts that didn't survive, weld new panels into the body where needed, prime, paint.

I bought a 59 Willy's PU and rebuilt it. The rust wasn't real bad. The frame was useable and some of the body needed replacing. Still several hundred hours on a simple vehicle. I have worked in and around the automotive industry my whole life. I've seen what it takes to clean rust. I wont do it any more. That's why Calif vehicles can be sought after.

 

[Shakes355]

Depending on the level of rust another option for you might be to consider purchasing a full frame from a yard. (Should be about a grand.) Average cost to sand blast and powder coat a frame/rolling-chassis is 500-700 dollars. The inside can be taken care of however you like. (My preference is 3m panel wax as it is the factory coating and is easy to apply/reapply.)

Once you have a treated frame you can start the necessary parts swapping and only touch what needs to be touched. It's definitely a more expensive option but it's a better coating and your time is definitely worth something. Good luck with your search.

 

[bgenlvtex]

So........how much you want to spend?
Figure around $80 an hour X possibly a hundred hours or more. Two guys, five days is eighty hours. Remove body, strip frame, sand blast or acid dip, replace all hardware, replace all parts that didn't survive, weld new panels into the body where needed, prime, paint.

I bought a 59 Willy's PU and rebuilt it. The rust wasn't real bad. The frame was useable and some of the body needed replacing. Still several hundred hours on a simple vehicle. I have worked in and around the automotive industry my whole life. I've seen what it takes to clean rust. I wont do it any more. That's why Calif vehicles can be sought after.

A bet 100 hours is conservative.

I would strip and dip, then address the areas that still require attention.

 

[smritte]

A bet 100 hours is conservative.

It is. At the shop, sometimes a body shop would send me a vehicle with a bent frame. It would take me as long as 60 hours just to swap frame and suspension. The hard part was all the wiring harness's. I didn't have to paint or cut off rusted bolts.

 

[grubworm]

just an idea....
i used this on a rusted excavator, a trailer, and misc tools
worked exceptionally well for my applications

POR-15® High-Performance Vehicle Restoration Products

Explore POR-15's extensive range of restoration products, perfect for bringing new life to any vehicle with superior performance and quality. Order online now!

por15.com

 

[FatUncleSalty]

I really appreciate everyone’s responses. It definitely is a money pit, and I would just keep it forever after fixing. I wish I could sell it, I do. I’ve tried, but with photos of the issues. No takers thus-far with honest information. I will re-list and try once more, but I can’t ruin some kid’s life just because he’s fomo-ing into his dream land cruiser. People take out loans, credit gets ruined. I can’t be a part of that.

Thanks all, I do appreciate your responses!

 

[FatUncleSalty]

just an idea....
i used this on a rusted excavator, a trailer, and misc tools
worked exceptionally well for my applications

POR-15® High-Performance Vehicle Restoration Products

Explore POR-15's extensive range of restoration products, perfect for bringing new life to any vehicle with superior performance and quality. Order online now!

por15.com

Yeah the previous owner treated with POR-15. Covered it all so well I missed it on casual inspection. Should have gotten it on a lift. Totally my fault. I would definitely use it as my rust protectant after getting rid of all I can find.

 

[FatUncleSalty]

A bet 100 hours is conservative.

It is. At the shop, sometimes a body shop would send me a vehicle with a bent frame. It would take me as long as 60 hours just to swap frame and suspension. The hard part was all the wiring harness's. I didn't have to paint or cut off rusted bolts.

I’ve looked into frame swaps. Sourced some frames, etc. Found a REALLY cool video of a guy swapping a tundra frame without actually removing the motor. Tried to get him on the project, but he doesn’t communicate well

 

[smritte]

Found a REALLY cool video of a guy swapping a tundra frame without actually removing the motor.

The motor stays in the frame. The wiring gets disconnected. That's the hard part.

 

[FatUncleSalty]

Found a REALLY cool video of a guy swapping a tundra frame without actually removing the motor.

The motor stays in the frame. The wiring gets disconnected. That's the hard part.

Yeah man, I get it. Watch this and you’ll see what I mean:

 

[Clrussell]

Why not try to sell it to someone here? Just make a for sale stating problems and be honest. Someone like me (who likes old beaters) might want it

 

[ShenValleyCruiser]

Sounds like maybe a little more than surface rust? I have a 1999 LC as well and trying to keep what is an ok-to-good from becoming any worse. Only rust spots on the frame are the very rear bumper (planning to put a rear bumper anyways) and a small section on the drivers side rear near the spare tire area. My LC 520,000 miles so I assume no one is buying it period and thats fine with me. I dont just want to prolong its life with me so I'm planning to do most of this myself (air needle scaler, wire wheel , etc.) and then do POR-15 and Krown oil film. I imagine the section in the rear by the spare may need to be cut and a patch welded in. None of my shock or body mounts have rust, there's no flaking anywhere besides the very rear. Frame swap doesn't seem worth it compared buying another 99 and swapping everything over.

 

[ShenValleyCruiser]

Actually my biggest rust problem is not the frame but part of the body/fender panels at the wheel wells and the lift hatch. Not sure if grinding and bondo and painting is the way to go and not sure how easy that is DIY.