Running power trailer.

[Jrobb608]

I have an off-road trailer that Is pretty bare on the inside. I want to run dc cigarette plug outlet to the trailer so I can power the fridge. I want to to run the wires off my battery to the back of the vehicle where there will be a quick disconnect between the trailer and the vehicle.

Does anyone foresee any issues with this? Thanks.

 

[smritte]

Run a resettable breaker in the front and a marine grade port. I ran this configuration for years on my M-100. I ended up with Anderson connectors for my fridge because every now and then, the vibration would loosen the plug. I always caught it before anything was ruined and it didn't happen all the time.

 

[grubworm]

should be fine, the fridges are fairly low amp.

do you have a 7-way plug? a lot of times pin 4 is hot and hooked directly to the battery, so in that case, tie into the trailer side of the plug and add a fuse / resettable breaker like @smritte said.

BTW...nice set up!

 

[Sparksalot]

Run a resettable breaker in the front and a marine grade port. I ran this configuration for years on my M-100. I ended up with Anderson connectors for my fridge because every now and then, the vibration would loosen the plug. I always caught it before anything was ruined and it didn't happen all the time.

+1 for the Anderson plugs.

 

[OTH Overland]

Would not take too much $$ and effort to add a small (50ah) lipo battery and a DCDC charger in the trailer, then you can keep the fridge powered up in camp while you take the rig out for an adventure or to fetch more beer.

 

[Viking1204]

+1 for the Anderson plugs.

+2 When I first started I had issues with my fridge wiggling loose on rough roads with a cigarette lighter plug, cut it off and switched out to Anderson connectors and haven't had an issue since!

 

[tjZ06]

Run a resettable breaker in the front and a marine grade port. I ran this configuration for years on my M-100. I ended up with Anderson connectors for my fridge because every now and then, the vibration would loosen the plug. I always caught it before anything was ruined and it didn't happen all the time.

This. My SoCal Teardrop just charged via the 7-pin, which is okay if you tend to spend a long time driving between stops, but has a pretty limited amp capacity. My Fourwheel Camper uses a trolling-motor connector (as you said, Marine-grade) and a resettable breaker and is a much better setup IMHO than counting on the 7-pin.

To the OP, I would *NOT* run some sort of cig-lighter type connection if at all possible. I assume the issue with what we're suggesting is you're not currently running a battery in the trailer? If that's the case, I'd really consider adding one. It'll give you tons of advantages, like continuing to run the fridge if you disconnect and go exploring w/ the rig, or even if you have a campsite that you need to disconnect at to fit in etc. Once you have a battery do what smritte said, and connect that charge wire to a DC to DC charger near the battery in the trailer.

-TJ

 

[smritte]

I don't want to hijack the thread and turn it into something other than what the op asked. I wanted to give my observation on the cigarette lighter port to explain why I won't run them anymore.
I noticed the higher powered male plugs have a very heavy contact spring on the tip. This and the slight "side to side" play the outer housing has, appears to be the issue. Between the two, it pushes and wiggles loose. I also have never had it come completely out, just not make contact. I believe this happens more on washboard roads. The marine grade sockets tend to have a "twist lock" feature. This is something I have never gotten to work due to I have never found a male end that has the feature and actually engages the socket lock.
Being stubborn, I dealt with this issue for several years before switching out to the andersons.

 

[OTH Overland]

The ARB Zero we have has a threaded end on the cig lighter plug that you can remove exposing a two blade plug that screws into their proprietary hardware connector that we have in the Jeep. Ends the issues with plug coming loose, yet allows for the end to be put back on if i transfer the fridge to the back seat of my Ram for temp use.

 

[lhoffm4]

I like a couple ideas presented and were I in your shoes would consider combining a few ideas. For example, installing a 7-pin adapter. Your trailer only requires three wires and a ground, so extra pin-outs can be used for 12v power on the trailer side. What connectors you use are up to you. Good advise on the Anderson connectors tho. I’d recommend at least one set be set up for solar panel(s) so you can charge both trailer and vehicle batts while in camp. If you don’t want to DIY a wiring set up for the trailer, you could get a portable SoGen and put it in the trailer when needed. Some portable panels to go with it and you are golden…