Roof Rack (Clean looking wire routing?)

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NV.Recon

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I have a roof rack on my ARE CX series cap for my Tundra, mounted on Yakima tracks. I am looking at purchasing some lights to add for dust and camp setup but was wondering how to run the wires so it doesn't look obvious or poorly installed.

Anyone have any tips or tricks to give the wiring a clean and hidden look? Here is a picture of the truck/rack. Any input is appreciated.
20161209_155721.jpg

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VCeXpedition

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Off-Road Ranger I

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Wrap them up in a nice wire loom and route them between your cab and bed, up to the rack.
Secure to the rack to provide strain relief.

It's easy with your setup. For an SUV that doesn't want to drill holes in my his roof, not so much. :expressionless:.
 

Gary Stevens

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IMG_1161.JPG IMG_1173.JPG I have three sets of lights on my vehicle. All Auxbeam, using the Auxbeam wiring harness and interior switch. The wiring harness just made everything easier. I have two light bars mounted at the front, one attached to brackets at my RTT, the other single line LED in my lower grill. At the rear I have a 7-inch flood for backing up. For the rear light, I needed to add additional wire to the harness for the length that was needed. This was mounted on a bracket I made and extends off my awning. Wiring at the top light bar I ran down the driver’s side window pillar and attached it with black silicone. Overall you have to look to see it. That said I could have done a better job. It was the first time I have tried this. Also, it has taken several applications of silicone to get right. It runs into the hood and out of sight. At the rear, there was no easy way and I decided to make the best of it. At both the front and rear I used a common expandable plastic wire mesh to cover the basic wire cable. This accomplished a couple of helpful things. One it looks good, two at the front I installed a quick release for the wires. I did this at the rear also. At the front I needed to do this before the wire harness was cemented with the silicone. The wire mesh does a nice job of concealing the quick disconnect, which I felt was unsightly. I did cut the mesh a bit short at the front. At the rear this worked out very nicely. I can use the quick disconnects and remove the RTT and attached lights with ease. At the rear I fished the wire harness along the lift hinge and into the body panel. This is rather easy, once you have the tools. I have a set of interior panel plastic tools. These easily pop out or move panels enough to run the wire harness. I popped the door threshold panels and ran the harness to the front of the car and up through the door hinged section and into the engine compartment. I did not want to drill holes in the fire wall. I am very happy with the installation.
IMG_1164.JPG
I just add another layer of silicone, so this still needs some clean up
IMG_1169.JPG IMG_1174.JPG
IMG_1179.JPG
 

NV.Recon

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Well done sir! That looks awesome and I appreciate you taking the time to explain and show some pics. This definitely helps!

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Gary Stevens

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Pathfinder I

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Reseda California
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All good. Tomorrow I will clean up the edges at the window pillar. Once that is done you really cannot tell the wire harness is there. Now that I have done it, I might start over, and make this a bit cleaner. Although no one notices it now. The plastic wire mesh really looks good. I went to the local electronic store for additional wire, and that stuff was sitting there. It is amazing how much it can expand. The switches are mounted to the side of the center consol. IMG_1171.JPG
 
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Defender 90 Keith

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FINALLY!!!! I've been trying to get the answer to the same question for so long. I want to get roof lights but haven't been able to figure out how to get the wiring into the cab.
 

Montanarally

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Would you mind snapping a couple pictures of these installed?


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Hey Now!

#3533
Sure thing! It dose require using a stepping bit in the roof. So yes you do drill a hole in the roof but I have never had these leak. Also you can hide it in a factory room rack end


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