Refrigerator Wiring

[SKWRLE]

Hey guys. Newbie question here. I have an Iceco VL45 freezer/cooler that comes with a regular outlet plug and a cigarette lighter plug. I was thinking of running a setup to my pickup bed that I could plug into the cigarette lighter into to keep it running while the truck is running. I see that ARB has a wiring kit but it seems like it might be proprietary to the ARB coolers. Can anyone confirm? If it only works with ARB coolers, can someone point me to a quality wiring kit I could use? Thanks

 

[pcstockton]

I have the ARB wiring kit. I use it on a Dometic.

As long as you have a regulated 12-volt plug (maybe hiding under the cig), you will be good.

 

[North American Sojourner]

Hey guys. Newbie question here. I have an Iceco VL45 freezer/cooler that comes with a regular outlet plug and a cigarette lighter plug. I was thinking of running a setup to my pickup bed that I could plug into the cigarette lighter into to keep it running while the truck is running. I see that ARB has a wiring kit but it seems like it might be proprietary to the ARB coolers. Can anyone confirm? If it only works with ARB coolers, can someone point me to a quality wiring kit I could use? Thanks

In my opinion, you need to think ahead because rework is expensive and a pain in the ass. Think where you'll be in like 5 years and then run electricity to the rear of the truck. Only then will you be able to plug in your refer and cook some hot dogs.
This is my F250 and it's a temp fix until I get my shell. (ARE DCU Wedge)
12v with circuit breaker at the truck battery, and a fuse box in the toolbox (my application) From the tool box, or where ever you put your fuse box, an outlet for the fridge is a 30 second fix. No kit needed. Some 8ga wire (depending on amp/watt needed and some 12ga and connectors etc.
Zim
Engine bay circuit breaker going to rear. I put a fuse box up here too for some other goodies.


Then a fuse box in the rear for additional charging stations and my refer too. Install is incomplete. Waiting on solenoid for my second battery.

 

[North American Sojourner]

This was my Tacoma. From the fuse box in my cap access door, I just ran a pos/neg to a cig lighter plug. Took 3.6 minutes. LOL
Zim

 

[1Louder]

ARB kit is fine. It has a fuse built-in. Clip the ends on your fridge cable and the ARB kit. Add SAE connectors. They work better. You can get fancier with a fuse block, etc as required.

 

[ThundahBeagle]

So, is your refrigerator running?


...I'll let myself out.

 

[MOAK]

Can I tell you how many times I’ve “ cleaned up “ my wiring over the past couple of decades? I thought not. Take the advice of those before me, spend the time and the little bit of money it may cost and get it right the first time. Think of the bed of your truck, or the rear of a wagon, as your house. You have a big line coming in off the road and down to your fuse box. From the fuse box you’ve got separate lines going to all the rooms in your house and multiple lines to your kitchen. AND, there is plenty of room in the fuse box to add more lines. Run a big line to an easily accessible fuse box to the rear compartment of said vehicle. Then, as needed, tap into the fuse box for each appliance. A few years ago I finally gave up my old in line fused spaghetti wiring and went with a box. I now have 2 spare terminals on the box. Will I use them? Sure. Eventually. Whew, why did I wait so long?

 

[SKWRLE]

ARB kit is fine. It has a fuse built-in. Clip the ends on your fridge cable and the ARB kit. Add SAE connectors. They work better. You can get fancier with a fuse block, etc as required.

Good idea. I like the SAE connectors. The wiring loom from the battery is 10gauge and the wiring from the cooler is labeled as 16gauge. Will I be OK with 16gauge SAE connectors? I don't want to overheat anything or melt something. I was thinking some shrink wrap over the spliced connections would be a good idea too.

 

[Z Adventures]

I know the Dometic 12v power cord has an Engel connection built into it. I think ARB does too. You unscrew the cigarette lighter portion and it exposes the other 2 blade connector. I bought this and it provides a secure screw in connection.

 

[Viking1204]

I cut off the cigarette lighter plug and wired it to an Anderson plug, it no longer bounces loose on bumpy terrain!

 

[Sonarman]

Run minimum 12 gauge wire for refrigerator. I originally ran 14 gauge to my AR be caused all kinds of problems. I now Run 10 gauge no problems at all. As the above said do it right the first time.

 

[reaver]

Good idea. I like the SAE connectors. The wiring loom from the battery is 10gauge and the wiring from the cooler is labeled as 16gauge. Will I be OK with 16gauge SAE connectors? I don't want to overheat anything or melt something. I was thinking some shrink wrap over the spliced connections would be a good idea too.

With connectors like this, I wouldn't be concerned about the wire gauge it works with, as long as it fits. What you need to look at is the constant Amp rating of the connector. If you're trying to pump 15A through a 10A connector, that's where the heat starts frying it.

I've switched to using locking DT and DTP connectors. They're rated at 15A and 25A (though I can't remember off the top of my head which is which).

Chances are the ICECO doesn't draw more than 5A, so you should be fine with pretty much any connector.

Also remember that the longer the run of wire is, the higher the gauge needs to be to handle the voltage drop.

Consult this chart to figure out what you need.

 

[SKWRLE]

I wound up using 10 gauge wire and changed to SAE connectors. Bought this, cut it in half and spliced each end where needed and secured the flush mounted backet into the side of my bed. Works great!