Pulling an 8000 lb trailer off road

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cortttt

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I have never towed anything - let alone an 8000 lb (maxed out) trailer (Conqueror 19) on dirt roads.

I'm not worried about national forest roads - it's getting stuck in the desert I'm worried about. I've gotten stuck many times - but not with a big trailer :).

So the question is what is the best or at least a sufficient tow vehicle?

Right now I'm looking at Chevy's and Fords

Does anyone have experience towing a heavy trailer off-road with GM's 6.0 liter or Fords 6.2L? My concern is low-end torque and getting unstuck. These would be the most economical buy for me if they work. .

The newer 6.6 (Chevy) or 7.3L (Ford) would be fine - they apparently have massive low-end torque. One in my price range, though, would probably have high miles (80-100K).

The diesels, of course, would work. One in my price range would either be older or have 90-100K miles on it, though, and I worry about problems with emissions.
 

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I've towed off road quite a bit. Its not so much the truck you have to worry about but unsticking the trailer. The trailer itself will also get the tow rig stuck.

Most of my towing is dirt road with some barely graded. Depending on where I went I would pull between 6k-8k. The biggest issues are sand, real soft dirt, mud and steep hills. Some of my old off road group towed enclosed car trailers with motor homes. Things I could drive a stock 2wd truck through could stick a rig with a big trailer.
Obviously high torque but if your doing a bit more then graded roads, you want 4wd. I've had to drop my trailer in camp and help pull rigs with my truck or Jeep. The issue wasn't power but traction.
I've also had to remove my jeep from the trailer due to how much drag I got from the trailer.
 

smritte

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Oh, forgot.
To directly answer your question, any of the modern trucks will do especially with a low range.
 

cortttt

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I've towed off road quite a bit. Its not so much the truck you have to worry about but unsticking the trailer. The trailer itself will also get the tow rig stuck.

Most of my towing is dirt road with some barely graded. Depending on where I went I would pull between 6k-8k. The biggest issues are sand, real soft dirt, mud and steep hills. Some of my old off road group towed enclosed car trailers with motor homes. Things I could drive a stock 2wd truck through could stick a rig with a big trailer.
Obviously high torque but if your doing a bit more then graded roads, you want 4wd. I've had to drop my trailer in camp and help pull rigs with my truck or Jeep. The issue wasn't power but traction.
I've also had to remove my jeep from the trailer due to how much drag I got from the trailer.
Thanks! Mud is infrequently a problem - sand is a real problem! 4wd is a necessity.
 

MidOH

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I tow on pole lines often, for work. Construction sites etc.

Top pick:
Ford f350 7.3l, fx4, 4.30 axle ratio.

Axle gears are the key to a well towing truck. Ford has an advantage there. Just pick out decent tires next.

My trucks a 6.2. My 1st personal truck with that engine. But my work truck, 2 trucks ago, had the 6.2. Very solid engine. I rotted out a header and cross pipe. No other issues.

The GM 6.0 is a dog in comparison. Mostly the gears and trans fault. But it struggles to hold cruise control in hills.

You can save a fortune by grabbing a base-ish plow truck, new. Adding features that you want later.

2nd choice:
Ram 3500 Cummins.

I don't recommend GM to friends. All of my GM work trucks have been disappointing, and I see no reason to change my mind lately.

I'm not familiar with that trailer. Pics? I ask, because DRW are priceless for towing long distances.
 
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Michael_Exploder

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I have never towed anything - let alone an 8000 lb (maxed out) trailer (Conqueror 19) on dirt roads.

I'm not worried about national forest roads - it's getting stuck in the desert I'm worried about. I've gotten stuck many times - but not with a big trailer :).

So the question is what is the best or at least a sufficient tow vehicle?

Right now I'm looking at Chevy's and Fords

Does anyone have experience towing a heavy trailer off-road with GM's 6.0 liter or Fords 6.2L? My concern is low-end torque and getting unstuck. These would be the most economical buy for me if they work. .

The newer 6.6 (Chevy) or 7.3L (Ford) would be fine - they apparently have massive low-end torque. One in my price range, though, would probably have high miles (80-100K).

The diesels, of course, would work. One in my price range would either be older or have 90-100K miles on it, though, and I worry about problems with emissions.
My company operates 4 -Ford F-450’s, the STX 4X4 package with the 6.7 diesel, (1) 2019 6 speed and the rest 10 speeds, 4:30 rear diff. We pull Diamond C goosenecks with hydraulic beaver tails hauling rental off-road construction equipment grossing up to 45k (excavators to high reach lifts) effortlessly on and off road, we over service them all with Rotella T6 synthetic using the “Arch oil” additive, 2019 has 158k, one trans reprogram under warranty, no other issues.
 

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bgenlvtex

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Something with front and rear lockers and disconnectable sway bar, and learning to use them before you get stuck. A winch, at least 2 snatch blocks and full compliment of rigging. Does the trailer have recovery points and landing gear that is suitable for skidding the tongue while disconnected?

Turning around, which I guarantee you will have to do increases the likelihood of getting stuck exponentially.

I have to ask though and I'm trying not to sound like a dick, but how do you end up with a budget for a full tilt Conqueror but not a proper tow vehicle?
 
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MidOH

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They should all have disconnectable sway bars.

The Ford and Ram 250/2500+ can have it completely removed since they're radius arm front suspensions. Just make peace with, whether or not, the towing is more important than the trails.

The Ford Superduty has a rear E locker and the front axle is auto locker ready. I recommend the Yukon Grizzly. Most Rams should have free spin kits available, to do the same. I'm not familiar with Ram rear axle options.
 
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cortttt

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I tow on pole lines often, for work. Construction sites etc.

Top pick:
Ford f350 7.3l, fx4, 4.30 axle ratio.

Axle gears are the key to a well towing truck. Ford has an advantage there. Just pick out decent tires next.

My trucks a 6.2. My 1st personal truck with that engine. But my work truck, 2 trucks ago, had the 6.2. Very solid engine. I rotted out a header and cross pipe. No other issues.

The GM 6.0 is a dog in comparison. Mostly the gears and trans fault. But it struggles to hold cruise control in hills.

You can save a fortune by grabbing a base-ish plow truck, new. Adding features that you want later.

2nd choice:
Ram 3500 Cummins.

I don't recommend GM to friends. All of my GM work trucks have been disappointing, and I see no reason to change my mind lately.

I'm not familiar with that trailer. Pics? I ask, because DRW are priceless for towing long distances.
Thanks Off Road Ranger -

Yes, GM has had lower gears - my van has 3.42 (and the 4.8L) - and has virtually no torque at low range. Thanks for the heads up about that. I love that 7.3L and am going back and forth between a higher mileage version of that and the 6.2L with lower miles.

Here's a link to the conqueror 19. It can weigh up to about 8500 lbs but hopefully we would keep it around 7500.

What is a base plow-truck? Is the base work truck?

Thanks for sharing your experience.
 

cortttt

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My company operates 4 -Ford F-450’s, the STX 4X4 package with the 6.7 diesel, (1) 2019 6 speed and the rest 10 speeds, 4:30 rear diff. We pull Diamond C goosenecks with hydraulic beaver tails hauling rental off-road construction equipment grossing up to 45k (excavators to high reach lifts) effortlessly on and off road, we over service them all with Rotella T6 synthetic using the “Arch oil” additive, 2019 has 158k, one trans reprogram under warranty, no other issues.
That is an impressive truck - carrying a heavy load over rough terrain. That is quite a workout. ! Thanks for the tip about Rotella - I do use synthetic but had not heard about it.
 

cortttt

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cort
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Something with front and rear lockers and disconnectable sway bar, and learning to use them before you get stuck. A winch, at least 2 snatch blocks and full compliment of rigging. Does the trailer have recovery points and landing gear that is suitable for skidding the tongue while disconnected?

Turning around, which I guarantee you will have to do increases the likelihood of getting stuck exponentially.

I have to ask though and I'm trying not to sound like a dick, but how do you end up with a budget for a full tilt Conqueror but not a proper tow vehicle?
I understand your point - why buy a very expensive trailer and then cut back on the tow vehicle. We'd actually love to buy something cheaper and have looked but the Conqueror is unique. The problem is that I have chemical sensitivities and the conqueror has an all aluminum interior plus my partner "requires" a standup shower.

Do we really not have the budget for a "proper tow vehicle"? If a last-generation heavy-duty truck doesn't do - then we can go more recent - or go with an older diesel - it will just have higher miles.

A front locker is not currently in our plans ( but we'll see) - a rear locker is - and a winch is. We're not daredevils - this will be mostly driven on decent national forest roads which my van with its limited-slip differential and a variety of recovery gear has been able to handle just fine. The desert - where a winch will not be that helpful - is the big question in my mind.
 
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cortttt

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cort
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They should all have disconnectable sway bars.

The Ford and Ram 250/2500+ can have it completely removed since they're radius arm front suspensions. Just make peace with, whether or not, the towing is more important than the trails.

The Ford Superduty has a rear E locker and the front axle is auto locker ready. I recommend the Yukon Grizzly. Most Rams should have free spin kits available, to do the same. I'm not familiar with Ram rear axle options.
Thanks for the info on front locker ready Ford :)
 
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bgenlvtex

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I understand your point - why buy a very expensive trailer and then cut back on the tow vehicle. We'd actually love to buy something cheaper and have looked but the Conqueror is unique. The problem is that I have chemical sensitivities and the conqueror has an all aluminum interior plus my partner "requires" a standup shower.

Do we really not have the budget for a "proper tow vehicle"? If a last-generation heavy-duty truck doesn't do - then we can go more recent - or go with an older diesel - it will just have higher miles.

A front locker is not currently in our plans ( but we'll see) - a rear locker is - and a winch is. We're not daredevils - this will be mostly driven on decent national forest roads which my van with its limited-slip differential and a variety of recovery gear has been able to handle just fine. The desert - where a winch will not be that helpful - is the big question in my mind.
I worded some of that wrong really but from your response you understand

So to be clear is the Conqueror something you already own or is this planning stage?

And a/the tow vehicle you currently have nothing to tow it with, is that correct?
 

cortttt

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I worded some of that wrong really but from your response you understand

So to be clear is the Conqueror something you already own or is this planning stage?

And a/the tow vehicle you currently have nothing to tow it with, is that correct?
Everything is in the planning stage - thanks.
 
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genocache

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I can't answer your tow vehicle question. I can address the need for a winch though. I go to the desert and have been stuck. I've used a winch to pull myself out by both off a vehicle and my spare wheel buried in the ground with a stout steel bar behind it and the winchline going through the center of the wheel connected to the bar. Nowadays you can get a properly sized Pullpal anchor or a Deadman fabric anchor to do the job. Watch Matt's Off-road on Youtube to get an idea of what it might take to get a truck/trailer unstuck. HTH