Pulled the trigger...

[Wotan]

Got tired of lugging ice around, and finding my meat soggy due to ice/water penetration... Not cheap, but should help going forward.

Went for the 37qt model, and I get a free 'limited edition' cover after sending in proof of purchase. Just put it in to see size; it will eventually go all the way next to the side (where I have my recovery gear right now - that will go on top of the roof rack, behind the RTT) behind the speaker.



How critical is it to get a deep cycle battery now? What's the best size (Ah, etc.) and way to install - in the engine bay, or behind the passenger seat (or thereabouts?)

 

[Raul B]

That's the one thing I don't regret buying... its soo nice not having to deal with ice..... As far as a battery is concerned.. I know that my 50qt ARB will drain my battery completely in 3 days... so as long as your driving it or turning the truck on if it is sitting stationary you should be ok... but... it wouldn't hurt to upgrade to a better battery or getting a dual battery setup.....

 

[Wotan]

That's the one thing I don't regret buying... its soo nice not having to deal with ice..... As far as a battery is concerned.. I know that my 50qt ARB will drain my battery completely in 3 days... so as long as your driving it or turning the truck on if it is sitting stationary you should be ok... but... it wouldn't hurt to upgrade to a better battery or getting a dual battery setup.....

Thanks. Yeah, I have to check my options on upgrading the existing crank battery vs. adding a second (deep cycle) battery... Watched a couple of install videos on YouTube, and it doesn't seem overly complicated, but you have to cut off and reroute some stuff.

 

[Kent R]

I have the ARB 50qt and have used a 60 watt folding solar panel when I'm in one place more than one day. Otherwise I have never had a battery issue. Additionally I carry a small Micro-Start XP-10 just in case, but I have never used it for my vehicle.

 

[Wotan]

I have the ARB 50qt and have used a 60 watt folding solar panel when I'm in one place more than one day. Otherwise I have never had a battery issue. Additionally I carry a small Micro-Start XP-10 just in case, but I have never used it for my vehicle.

Hmmm... I didn't think about using solar panels. when stationary... Guess I'll do some research on those as well :). How do you connect the panel? With alligator clamps to the battery? @Kent R

// EDIT: I actually have a 24W panel I use for iPad, iPhone, etc. when off grid. That might not be enough power though to keep the battery topped off with the fridge running... //

I do have a Micro-Start XP-1 I carry in the Jeep when out and about, so, unless the battery goes completely "kaput" due to the drain, I should be able to jump start etc. by myself.

 

[Kent R]

This is the panel I use and yes I connect it wth the supplied alligator clamps but that might change this season.

 

[Wotan]

I am well aware of the differences between deep cycle and regular car/crank batteries. After doing some research, it seems I should be able to replace the OEM battery with a Group 35 DieHard Platinum P-5 or equivalent. Has anybody tried this on a 2014?

Here's a guy with a 2012 who did just that... https://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-ups/cb-electrical-mods/diehard-platinum-battery-for-a-2012-jeep-jk-wrangler

A starting battery is designed to provide short bursts of energy and isn’t designed to be drained and charged over and over. A deep cycle is designed to be drained and charged. You can use your starting battery for the fridge and it will probably work for awhile, but it will definitely shorten it’s lifespan. Depending on the starting battery, it could kill it pretty quickly using it this way. I would put a dual battery setup on the top of your list if you’re running a fridge. Find out what the biggest common size battery is that’ll fit in your setup and do that. There’s a lot of diy info out there to avoid expensive kits. I went that route on my Tacoma and spent probably about $200 for my Blue Sea ACR homemade setup and it’s been very reliable. Some companies sell parts of the kits if you want to buy the parts what you can’t do yourself, like battery mounts if you don’t weld, etc... I hate doing electrical work, but I’m glad I built my own so I now know exactly how it works and it will be way easier to troubleshoot if I have an issue in the future. It was actually a pretty easy project once I figured it out. You will love having a fridge, and love it even more having an isolated deep cycle to run it without having to worry about the starting battery.


Sent from my iPhone using OB Talk

 

[v_man]

https://www.overlandbound.com/forums/threads/dueling-batteries-a-dual-setup-on-my-07-lx.9245/#post-140811

My dual install. You might end up wanting to power other circuits beside the fridge so might as well do it right from the start and go duals. Including the cost of a deep cycle, you can probably get set up for $400. Install an aux. Fuse box while ur in there...

 

[Wotan]

Sorry, I guess I didn’t understand the original question.


Sent from my iPhone using OB Talk

No worries. Long term a dual system is probably the right way to go; just looking at a temporary bridging solution that would allow me to keep the electrical system as is (with possibly a dual-purpose battery) for now, until I have a better idea of what I want to do long term...


Alain (‘Alan’) via OB Talk on iPhone

 

[Sparky]

Batteries + has their own line of X2 Power Batteries which, as far as I know, are rebranded NorthStar AGM at a significant discount. It's a dual purpose deep/start cycle battery. I just got one for my aux position after my die hard platinum marine pooped out, but might not be a bad battery to consider if you want to maintain a single battery system. No association with them, just passing on the knowledge.

I have a dual battery setup. Although it's simple, there is something to be said for even "more simple" aka completely stock. Keep an emergency jump starter on hand as a failsafe and you're good. I used a single battery for a couple years with a fridge and it worked great, although be sure to gauge your cable right when running circuits that far from the batt to avoid unnecessary voltage drop. Just supporting your decision to not jump straight into a dual battery system.

Edit: regarding size, be cautious when up-sizing your starting battery too much, if your alternator can't efficiently recharge the larger battery it could reduce the battery's service life (and possibly the alternator's).

 

[Wotan]

Batteries + has their own line of X2 Power Batteries which, as far as I know, are rebranded NorthStar AGM at a significant discount. It's a dual purpose deep/start cycle battery. I just got one for my aux position after my die hard platinum marine pooped out, but might not be a bad battery to consider if you want to maintain a single battery system. No association with them, just passing on the knowledge.

I have a dual battery setup. Although it's simple, there is something to be said for even "more simple" aka completely stock. Keep an emergency jump starter on hand as a failsafe and you're good. I used a single battery for a couple years with a fridge and it worked great, although be sure to gauge your cable right when running circuits that far from the batt to avoid unnecessary voltage drop. Just supporting your decision to not jump straight into a dual battery system.

Edit: regarding size, be cautious when up-sizing your starting battery too much, if your alternator can't efficiently recharge the larger battery it could reduce the battery's service life (and possibly the alternator's).

Thanks. I’ll check them out. Somebody in response to the guy who did this to his 2012 mentioned them as well. Only question would be fit...


Alain (‘Alan’) via OB Talk on iPhone

 

[Chris]

A starting battery is designed to provide short bursts of energy and isn’t designed to be drained and charged over and over. A deep cycle is designed to be drained and charged. You can use your starting battery for the fridge and it will probably work for awhile, but it will definitely shorten it’s lifespan. Depending on the starting battery, it could kill it pretty quickly using it this way. I would put a dual battery setup on the top of your list if you’re running a fridge. Find out what the biggest common size battery is that’ll fit in your setup and do that. There’s a lot of diy info out there to avoid expensive kits. I went that route on my Tacoma and spent probably about $200 for my Blue Sea ACR homemade setup and it’s been very reliable. Some companies sell parts of the kits if you want to buy the parts what you can’t do yourself, like battery mounts if you don’t weld, etc... I hate doing electrical work, but I’m glad I built my own so I now know exactly how it works and it will be way easier to troubleshoot if I have an issue in the future. It was actually a pretty easy project once I figured it out. You will love having a fridge, and love it even more having an isolated deep cycle to run it without having to worry about the starting battery.


Sent from my iPhone using OB Talk

That explanation was very helpful and concise as I am about to embark on the same project. I bought a slee kit but will do the install myself

 

[Hafaday]

Thanks. I’ll check them out. Somebody in response to the guy who did this to his 2012 mentioned them as well. Only question would be fit...


Alain (‘Alan’) via OB Talk on iPhone

I have this X2 in my 14 JKU. Fits perfect with no mods necessary. I will be running my ARB 50qt. off this along with other stuff. I will be getting a solar panel for stationary re-charge when out for extended times.

 

[Wotan]

I have this X2 in my 14 JKU. Fits perfect with no mods necessary. I will be running my ARB 50qt. off this along with other stuff. I will be getting a solar panel for stationary re-charge when out for extended times.

Thanks. Another good option, looks like. Just waiting for the cold to go away; working in an unheated garage in IA winter is no fun :)

 

[rlhydn]

Go for a big quality solar panel to account for efficiency and loss and enjoy your fridge