Over the years I have seen many accidents and injuries as a result of improper rigging with straps and shackles. I thought I would offer up some information on the subject to help the OB community out.
Let us begin with shackles. The most common style of shackle you see on the trails is the bow shackle. They are an essential piece of hardware for you to have in your recovery kit.
They come in a variety of sizes to suit various application. Here is an example of that. Starting with a 1/8" 500lbs WLL on the left and finishing with a 2" 35ton WLL on the right.
The right shackle for the job, WLL (working load limit) and getting what you pay for. For the most part we in the overlanding community tend to have some really heavy rigs. I have seen individuals on the trails that have either damaged there equipment or have gotten injured from using a shackle that wasn't rated for the load it was carrying or it had no working load limit at all. There are some shackles available on the market that are genuinely just to be used to look at. Those would be any shackle that does not have a WLL stamped into them! What am I saying?
If there is not a load limit on the shackle it should never be used in any capacity other than a paper weight. Basically don't use a cheap knockoff shackle your life could depend on it. Know what your shackles are rated for and use the correct size for the task at hand.
Where is the WLL?
It is typically stamped into the fording. Example.
Bow shackle working range. Yes they have one. Most shackles have the working angle stamped into them just like the WLL. To many times I have seen people trying to pull a rig side ways on a trail and they have the shackle seriously side loaded. Bow shackles have a very wide working angle on the PIN on its normal rotating plane. As long as the shackle is free to move and not binding on any other object it is good. Where you run into issues is with the BOW. The bow is limited to a 90* working angle. Anything beyond that can cause irreparable damage to your shackle. Example of Working angle pictured below. You can see the "45" with the line above it on both sides of the bow.
Inspecting your equipment. Always inspect your rigging before each trip and before and after each use.
With your straps check them end to end for tears, abrasions, UV damage, burns, petroleum contamination, broken/unraveled stitches and make sure the capacity tag is intact/legible. If you find any issues destroy and discard of the strap properly. (Cut the eyes on each end and put it in the plastics recycling bin.)
With shackles you should always check them for deformation, cracks, excessive wear and legible WLL stamps. Shackles should not be painted or powder coated unless it was done by the manufacturer. Doing so prevents proper inspection.
Easy way to check for deformation is to look at the pin when it is fully threaded into the bow. It should be seated against the bow at the head and the threaded end should be flush or just protruding past the bow. If it is not flush on either end it is bent and unserviceable. Destroy and dispose of properly.
Shackle on the left is in good shape shackle on the right is deformed and unserviceable.
Example of excessive wear and damaged WLL markings. Unserviceable.
Nesting straps in a shackle correctly is also important in preventing damage and failure.
Over filling or using to small of a shackle can cause the shackle to cut the strap or cause the straps to friction bond to each other. Having the shackle in the wrong orientation can cause deformation and failure of the shackle.
Examples of improper nesting of a bow shackle.
Bow is side loaded, this will damage shackle. Solution is to turn the shackle 90* so that the strap rides on the pin and the arc of the bow.
Pin throat is to narrow for strap. This will cut the strap and possibly cause accident/injury. Solution is to use a larger shackle that fits the strap.
Proper shackle nesting and strap joining examples below.
Correctly joining two straps with right size shackle for the strap.
Correct nesting for basketed strap to single strap. Commonly used when using a tree saver connected to a recovery strap. Strap in pin throat could also be substituted for your winch link or hook.
Example of a reef knot. I personally will only use this method in a last resort situation because it to can cause damage to the two straps being joined.
Straps should always be connected with a shackle or with a reef knot. Basketing, tying and daisy chaining them will cause damage and/or failure of the straps. A soft shackle of the appropriate size or a bow shackle should always be used. Connected straps should always be weighted with a line weight or a jacket to reduce recoil in the event of failure. Proper joining techniques covered above. Examples of what not to do below.
Example of a daisy chain. This will lock the straps together and cause them to cut one another.
This is basketing one strap to another. This can also cause failure of the tow straps.
I hope this information helps feel free to comment. If you have any questions please ask I'll do my best to answer and update as necessary.
Let us begin with shackles. The most common style of shackle you see on the trails is the bow shackle. They are an essential piece of hardware for you to have in your recovery kit.
They come in a variety of sizes to suit various application. Here is an example of that. Starting with a 1/8" 500lbs WLL on the left and finishing with a 2" 35ton WLL on the right.
The right shackle for the job, WLL (working load limit) and getting what you pay for. For the most part we in the overlanding community tend to have some really heavy rigs. I have seen individuals on the trails that have either damaged there equipment or have gotten injured from using a shackle that wasn't rated for the load it was carrying or it had no working load limit at all. There are some shackles available on the market that are genuinely just to be used to look at. Those would be any shackle that does not have a WLL stamped into them! What am I saying?
If there is not a load limit on the shackle it should never be used in any capacity other than a paper weight. Basically don't use a cheap knockoff shackle your life could depend on it. Know what your shackles are rated for and use the correct size for the task at hand.
Where is the WLL?
It is typically stamped into the fording. Example.
Bow shackle working range. Yes they have one. Most shackles have the working angle stamped into them just like the WLL. To many times I have seen people trying to pull a rig side ways on a trail and they have the shackle seriously side loaded. Bow shackles have a very wide working angle on the PIN on its normal rotating plane. As long as the shackle is free to move and not binding on any other object it is good. Where you run into issues is with the BOW. The bow is limited to a 90* working angle. Anything beyond that can cause irreparable damage to your shackle. Example of Working angle pictured below. You can see the "45" with the line above it on both sides of the bow.
Inspecting your equipment. Always inspect your rigging before each trip and before and after each use.
With your straps check them end to end for tears, abrasions, UV damage, burns, petroleum contamination, broken/unraveled stitches and make sure the capacity tag is intact/legible. If you find any issues destroy and discard of the strap properly. (Cut the eyes on each end and put it in the plastics recycling bin.)
With shackles you should always check them for deformation, cracks, excessive wear and legible WLL stamps. Shackles should not be painted or powder coated unless it was done by the manufacturer. Doing so prevents proper inspection.
Easy way to check for deformation is to look at the pin when it is fully threaded into the bow. It should be seated against the bow at the head and the threaded end should be flush or just protruding past the bow. If it is not flush on either end it is bent and unserviceable. Destroy and dispose of properly.
Shackle on the left is in good shape shackle on the right is deformed and unserviceable.
Example of excessive wear and damaged WLL markings. Unserviceable.
Nesting straps in a shackle correctly is also important in preventing damage and failure.
Over filling or using to small of a shackle can cause the shackle to cut the strap or cause the straps to friction bond to each other. Having the shackle in the wrong orientation can cause deformation and failure of the shackle.
Examples of improper nesting of a bow shackle.
Bow is side loaded, this will damage shackle. Solution is to turn the shackle 90* so that the strap rides on the pin and the arc of the bow.
Pin throat is to narrow for strap. This will cut the strap and possibly cause accident/injury. Solution is to use a larger shackle that fits the strap.
Proper shackle nesting and strap joining examples below.
Correctly joining two straps with right size shackle for the strap.
Correct nesting for basketed strap to single strap. Commonly used when using a tree saver connected to a recovery strap. Strap in pin throat could also be substituted for your winch link or hook.
Example of a reef knot. I personally will only use this method in a last resort situation because it to can cause damage to the two straps being joined.
Straps should always be connected with a shackle or with a reef knot. Basketing, tying and daisy chaining them will cause damage and/or failure of the straps. A soft shackle of the appropriate size or a bow shackle should always be used. Connected straps should always be weighted with a line weight or a jacket to reduce recoil in the event of failure. Proper joining techniques covered above. Examples of what not to do below.
Example of a daisy chain. This will lock the straps together and cause them to cut one another.
This is basketing one strap to another. This can also cause failure of the tow straps.
I hope this information helps feel free to comment. If you have any questions please ask I'll do my best to answer and update as necessary.
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