Enthusiast III
Enthusiast III
Enthusiast III
Enthusiast III
Thank you, after looking at some info about relays and your explanation I think I get it now. I’ll need a relay, an anl fuse and one of those add a circuit things.If you want your aux panel to only be powered when the key is on you can use a relay to switch your aux panel on and off and control the relay using a +12v signal switched by the key.
1. Put your main fuse as close to the + battery terminal as possible.
2. Connect the other side of the fuse to pin 30 on a relay.
3. Connect pin 87 of the relay to your aux panel.
The main fuse and relay need to both be sized large enough to support your intended loads. Then you can pick a wire gauge that can support the maximum current, determined by the fuse size. For example, if you anticipate a max 40A of loads connected to the aux panel your fuse would need to be larger than that (say 50A) and your relay would need to be able to support at least whatever the fuse is rated for. You can then use a chart like this one to look up the proper wire size (AWG) for the max current and wire length.
The last step is to use a low current switched signal to drive the relay. This will likely be the tricky part. One option would be to tap into the accessory circuit (cigarette lighter) either in the car or at the fuse block under the hood. In most vehicles this is switched +12v, and you would hook it to pin 86 on the relay and then ground pin 85.
The numbering system for relays is a bit confusing, but the important thing to keep in mind is that pins 85 and 86 power an electromagnet that when energized activates a switch that connects pins 30 and 87.
Enthusiast III
Member III
16986
I'm happy with the info too. I've been looking at that gland on Amazon for six months while trying to figure a way to enter my rig with my solar wires and not look amateurish. Also I want a way to get into the rig with my rack lighting wires without monkey rigging it through the A or B pillar posts. That grand is an answer to both wiring fixes. I plan to connect them to a panel inside the rig to power up everything I plan to hook up.You're welcome and good luck!
Member III
16986
When I see you I will want to talk to you about this and a lot about radios ect. :-)I decided to go with bulkhead fittings for my RR Lights...I wanted something that wouldn’t be obtrusive when I remove my rack.
WF28 high Voltage Power Cable 7pin led Connector, Current 25A Voltage 500V Aviation Bulkhead Connector Plug Socket(7 pin)
I've ordered a very similar fitting off Amazon for the same purpose. How did yours turn out? Any tips?When I see you I will want to talk to you about this and a lot about radios ect. :-)I decided to go with bulkhead fittings for my RR Lights...I wanted something that wouldn’t be obtrusive when I remove my rack.
WF28 high Voltage Power Cable 7pin led Connector, Current 25A Voltage 500V Aviation Bulkhead Connector Plug Socket(7 pin)
Advocate III
20990
It was a lot taller than I expected... as for tips... hot soldering iron... and take your time... make your harness about 2’ longer than you think you need and start feeding the harness from the roof to where ever your relay panel is... for the light side of the harness, again lay the wires from the lights to the harness and give yourself about 2’ of extra wire. Wire the lights in place then solder the bulkhead fitting last trimming the wires to length at the connector... lastly don’t use silicone to seal the connector to the roof as this will induce leaks with the supplied rubber gasket.I've ordered a very similar fitting off Amazon for the same purpose. How did yours turn out? Any tips?
Advocate III
20990
I’m all ears Jim... wiring is my second favorite thing to do... first favorite is playing with radios.When I see you I will want to talk to you about this and a lot about radios ect. :-)
Thank you! Very appreciatedIt was a lot taller than I expected... as for tips... hot soldering iron... and take your time... make your harness about 2’ longer than you think you need and start feeding the harness from the roof to where ever your relay panel is... for the light side of the harness, again lay the wires from the lights to the harness and give yourself about 2’ of extra wire. Wire the lights in place then solder the bulkhead fitting last trimming the wires to length at the connector... lastly don’t use silicone to seal the connector to the roof as this will induce leaks with the supplied rubber gasket.I've ordered a very similar fitting off Amazon for the same purpose. How did yours turn out? Any tips?
Enthusiast III