Project Ru - 2000 Subaru Outback Base Wagon

[Ian McAdorey]

I have received a few requests to make a build-break-down of my 2000 Outback, so here it goes.

I am posting this as of August 2018, and this is what is currently done to it. If anybody has any questions about a specific part of the vehicle and wants more detail, don't hesitate to ask, we are all here to help!

Suspension, Wheels, and Tires
- Anderson Design Fabrication 4" Lift Kit
- KYB Struts
- KYB Shocks
- OEM Subaru Baja Springs (about two inches of additional lift)
- Daystar Stinger Bump Stops
- Daystar Weld-In Bump Stop Mount
- ISC Suspensions 25MM Spacers
- Method Race Wheels MR502-VTSpec (15" x 7" +15 offset)
- General Grabber AT2 (235/75/15)

Engine, Transmission, and Mechanical
- K&N Air Filter
- Mishimoto Radiator and Hoses
- Tsudo un-equal length headers
- Tsudo high flow catalytic converter
- Muffler Delete
- Custom Front Skid Plate - 1/8" thick steel (I have used this as a Jacking point, it holds up like boss)
- Primitive Racing 3/16" Rear Differential Skid Plate
- Front Differential Breather
- Rear Differential Breather
- ECU Relocation
- Whiteline Rear Differential Bushings
- Mitsubishi Pajero Snorkel
- 135 Amp Alternator Upgrade from the stock 90 amps
- Optima Red Top Battery

Exterior and Lighting
- Smittybilt Overlander XL Roof Top Tent (2883)
- Smittybilt Overlander XL Annex (2888)
- Hella Optilux Extreme White 55W Low Beam
- Hella Optilux Extreme White 100W High Beam
- Hella Optilux Extreme White 80W Fog Lights
- eBay no-name (or at least I don't know the name) 21" Wireless LED Light Bar - Amber/White Strobe
- Hella Supertones
- 2003-2004 Front bumper swap
- Mitsubishi Pajero Snorkel

 

[Low594]

Nice! How do you like the wheels and tires? Did you need to do any clearancing to keep the tires from rubbing? Im wondering if 30s will fit with a 4"-5" lift, Im not afraid to use my sawzall or 3 lbs sledge!

 

[martin_j001]

Very nice build! Makes me wish we had kept our older Outback!

 

[Wawa Skittletits]

Looks awesome Ian! Nice work.

 

[Ian McAdorey]

Looks awesome Ian! Nice work.

Thanks bud!

Very nice build! Makes me wish we had kept our older Outback!

I still have her, 18 years young, and only 142k miles on her. Got lucky with a Florida car and minimal rust.

I also have a 2017 3.6R that I use as my daily. I am considering lowering that one.. *let the hate begin*

Nice! How do you like the wheels and tires? Did you need to do any clearancing to keep the tires from rubbing? Im wondering if 30s will fit with a 4"-5" lift, Im not afraid to use my sawzall or 3 lbs sledge!

I have pretty much completely filled up the rear wheel wells. I want to run a 30 or 31 inch tire, but I'm already feeling a loss of power as is on the 29s and as I add more weight to the car my mind is shifting towards the brakes. Trying to find a local steel fabricator for some bumpers and sliders (open to any suggestions for someone who reads this) and after that I will probably upgrade my brakes to the 4 pots from the WRX. Pair the steel with the RTT, a full camping kit, and potentially a trailer and braking is slowing moving up on my radar

 

[Low594]

Thanks bud!

I still have her, 18 years young, and only 142k miles on her. Got lucky with a Florida car and minimal rust.

I also have a 2017 3.6R that I use as my daily. I am considering lowering that one.. *let the hate begin*
I have pretty much completely filled up the rear wheel wells. I want to run a 30 or 31 inch tire, but I'm already feeling a loss of power as is on the 29s and as I add more weight to the car my mind is shifting towards the brakes. Trying to find a local steel fabricator for some bumpers and sliders (open to any suggestions for someone who reads this) and after that I will probably upgrade my brakes to the 4 pots from the WRX. Pair the steel with the RTT, a full camping kit, and potentially a trailer and braking is slowing moving up on my radar

Is yours stick or auto? From my research, my 2000 Outback 2.5 auto should have the 4.44 VLSD, If I recall the BE/BH Outback 2.5 manual should have a 4.11 VLSD. Ive been thinking mine needs some upgrade on the brakes, but yes, after the lift it definitely will. Im going to carefully consider weight in when thinking about wheels and tires. Im wanting to drop to 15", currently running Sparco Terra 16".
As for bumpers, Ive been watching some of @StellarBuilt on Instagram near here in Sacramento, CA.... beautiful custom work! But I decided to buy another product from SubieFish, they make adapter plates to be able to bolt Jeep JK front bumpers.

 

[Ian McAdorey]

Is yours stick or auto? From my research, my 2000 Outback 2.5 auto should have the 4.44 VLSD, If I recall the BE/BH Outback 2.5 manual should have a 4.11 VLSD. Ive been thinking mine needs some upgrade on the brakes, but yes, after the lift it definitely will. Im going to carefully consider weight in when thinking about wheels and tires. Im wanting to drop to 15", currently running Sparco Terra 16".
As for bumpers, Ive been watching some of @StellarBuilt on Instagram near here in Sacramento, CA.... beautiful custom work! But I decided to buy another product from SubieFish, they make adapter plates to be able to bolt Jeep JK front bumpers.

It's an Auto, so 4.44 4EAT with the cold weather package so VLSD. From my understanding the VLSD was only available with the cold weather package; if you have heated seats and heated whippers, you have the VLSD.

I like the methods, mainly because they work and they are lighter. I would rather find a set of 15" wheels that have beadlocks, I haven't been so lucky to find any in a suitable or useable offset. The tires, on the other hand, are outstanding, and I would not trade them for much of anything, except maybe a different set of General Tires.

I like what Stellar Built does, but not local for me. I have looked into getting some Smittybilt bumpers but I have some specific pieces that I want to add that I know I cannot get on a off the shelf bumper

 

[Low594]

It's an Auto, so 4.44 4EAT with the cold weather package so VLSD. From my understanding the VLSD was only available with the cold weather package; if you have heated seats and heated whippers, you have the VLSD.

I like the methods, mainly because they work and they are lighter. I would rather find a set of 15" wheels that have beadlocks, I haven't been so lucky to find any in a suitable or useable offset. The tires, on the other hand, are outstanding, and I would not trade them for much of anything, except maybe a different set of General Tires.

I like what Stellar Built does, but not local for me. I have looked into getting some Smittybilt bumpers but I have some specific pieces that I want to add that I know I cannot get on a off the shelf bumper

Ahh yes, I forgot that Winter package was part of it, but Ive got that, so its all good!

Beadlocks would look good! I like my Sparco 16s (made by OZ Racing), but theres too much offset and I want more sidewall. I know Methods have an offset that would allow me to get rid of the spacers Im running.

 

[Overland_Mitsu]

I’m running 15” American racing AR767. They have like 4” BS so they poke a lot. But you could get a beadlock kit to weld up and I wanted to run 235/75-15’s for the extra sidewall [emoji1598]

 

[Ian McAdorey]

Beadlocks would look good! I like my Sparco 16s (made by OZ Racing), but theres too much offset and I want more sidewall. I know Methods have an offset that would allow me to get rid of the spacers Im running.

Your definition of too much offset and mine might be two completely different things, I am currently at a -10 offset with my spacers and wheels and it is most certainly not enough. At full lock, my tire is in contact with the body, and the car acts as if it is trying to drive over itself; its manageable and I can still make a U-turn with no damage but it was alarming at first

I’m running 15” American racing AR767. They have like 4” BS so they poke a lot. But you could get a beadlock kit to weld up and I wanted to run 235/75-15’s for the extra sidewall

I will take a look into those. I have no idea what backspacing that would translate too, but it might be just right. I would love to find an alloy wheel that has a beadlock because of weight, but i know that beggars cannot be choosers

 

[Low594]

Your definition of too much offset and mine might be two completely different things, I am currently at a -10 offset with my spacers and wheels and it is most certainly not enough. At full lock, my tire is in contact with the body, and the car acts as if it is trying to drive over itself; its manageable and I can still make a U-turn with no damage but it was alarming at first

No sounds like the same result... My Sparcos are 50mm offset, the 20mm spacers Im running make it effectively 30mm offset and the edge of my 215 tires have about a pinky gap between the body. Im thinking the 15"Methods with 35mm offset and running 235 or 9.5", but with the lift will look pretty sweet! Im not much on running the tractor poke, but I like the tires out so they will just tuck in on compression.

I will take a look into those. I have no idea what backspacing that would translate too, but it might be just right. I would love to find an alloy wheel that has a beadlock because of weight, but i know that beggars cannot be choosers

There are online offset vs backspacing calculators available!

 

[Ian McAdorey]

No sounds like the same result... My Sparcos are 50mm offset, the 20mm spacers Im running make it effectively 30mm offset and the edge of my 215 tires have about a pinky gap between the body. Im thinking the 15"Methods with 35mm offset and running 235 or 9.5", but with the lift will look pretty sweet! Im not much on running the tractor poke, but I like the tires out so they will just tuck in on compression.

The 15" 501 and 502 only come in a +15 offset. I needed to add another 25mm spacer in the mix to get it out far enough and that still isn't enough to push the 235 wide tire out to get it past the point where it will be an easy way to steer

 

[Low594]

The 15" 501 and 502 only come in a +15 offset. I needed to add another 25mm spacer in the mix to get it out far enough and that still isn't enough to push the 235 wide tire out to get it past the point where it will be an easy way to steer

Ohh, I must have mixed up my wheel specs, been looking at too many lately! +15mm shouldnt be too bad for the look I want!

 

[Ian McAdorey]

Ohh, I must have mixed up my wheel specs, been looking at too many lately! +15mm shouldnt be too bad for the look I want!

For myself, I ran the +15 with a 235/70/15 tire. It was fairly flush to the body lines with little to no poke from the fender. Since changing to a 235/75/15, I added the ISC 25mm spacer and now have a little poke beyond the fender. I honestly think it is a great look

 

[Ian McAdorey]

Snorkel is installed and looking mean

 

[Ian McAdorey]

I’m running 15” American racing AR767. They have like 4” BS so they poke a lot. But you could get a beadlock kit to weld up and I wanted to run 235/75-15’s for the extra sidewall [emoji1598]

Right now I am at about 5" backspacing I think, it's -10mm offset (‍♂) I'm fairly invested in my methods, and just purchased the last made silver 502 from Method, they are now discontinued. If someone came around with the right offer I would consider selling them for a set of 5 steelies a but it would have to be a great offer

 

[Overland_Mitsu]

Nice man, I like the steelies mainly as they are cheap but quit heavy and you can weld on some rad looking bead locks [emoji51] Methods are cool too but we’re a little pricey for me. Digging the snork!!!

 

[Ian McAdorey]

Nice man, I like the steelies mainly as they are cheap but quit heavy and you can weld on some rad looking bead locks [emoji51] Methods are cool too but we’re a little pricey for me. Digging the snork!!!

Weight is a huge factor to me, as I only keep increasing it, and the power of the car is not exactly the best either

 

[Low594]

Weight is a huge factor to me, as I only keep increasing it, and the power of the car is not exactly the best either

We dont have the gearing options to overcome lower HP/torque, like other platforms. Unsprung weight can really put a strain on suspension, so a little can save alot. Also wheel/tire weight is centrifugal mass, less weight = less braking requirements & wear.

 

[Ian McAdorey]

We dont have the gearing options to overcome lower HP/torque, like other platforms. Unsprung weight can really put a strain on suspension, so a little can save alot. Also wheel/tire weight is centrifugal mass, less weight = less braking requirements & wear.

I am honestly contemplating the 4 pot WRX conversion not from the standpoint of 'ooh shinny red performance brakes' but more brakes with purposed to help as I continue to add weight and worsen my braking situation. Especially as I consider doing a trailer at some point