Pajero Gen 4 in Norway (aka Montero - 2014 model)

[Gravel Seeker]

Lots of Pajero's in OZ although they have decided to discontinue them which is a shame as the Pajero sport is ugly and smaller.

I know. The only Mitsu's sold here now are i-MiEV, Outlander hybrid and L200 (Triton). We haven't had the Pajero Sport since the late 90's and I was really surprised when I went to Australia in 2005 and saw them being sold there still (as the Challenger). I always thought they were the coolest looking 4x4's, but unfortunately someone in charge of the design (and chrome spray) consumed one too many mushrooms from the looks of it.

 

[uncompromise]

I probably spent close to a week just measuring and making cardboard templates for the floor. Because of the width (wider than a sheet of plywood) and wheel wells I figured it was better to cut the plywood in whole sections widthwise.

Love this build. Our Pajero is a 2004. What weight ply did you use on the floor?

 

[Gravel Seeker]

Love this build. Our Pajero is a 2004. What weight ply did you use on the floor?

Thanks
Not sure of the weight. We measure ply in thickness here. I think I used 9mm for the floor. Pretty sure, I can measure it later. Used some 12mm where I wanted a little more thickness/ stiffness. The sheets are 2440x1220mm.
I chose poplar wood since I think it looks better than pine. I used standard water absorbent ply, but gave it two layers of clear lacquer (everything not painted black).
When it's ready (hopefully this spring), I'll take it to a weight station. The entire wood construction is pretty heavy. There's probably 4 sheets of ply and something like 20meters of support beams.
It was 2600kg April 2020, but that was with me in it, a set of 4 new under body protection in the back, but without the third battery and the fridge. Half a tank of diesel maybe.
I've probably added 100kg all up with house battery and electrical.

 

[uncompromise]

Thanks
Not sure of the weight. We measure ply in thickness here. I think I used 9mm for the floor. Pretty sure, I can measure it later. Used some 12mm where I wanted a little more thickness/ stiffness. The sheets are 2440x1220mm.
I chose poplar wood since I think it looks better than pine. I used standard water absorbent ply, but gave it two layers of clear lacquer (everything not painted black).
When it's ready (hopefully this spring), I'll take it to a weight station. The entire wood construction is pretty heavy. There's probably 4 sheets of ply and something like 20meters of support beams.
It was 2600kg April 2020, but that was with me in it, a set of 4 new under body protection in the back, but without the third battery and the fridge. Half a tank of diesel maybe.
I've probably added 100kg all up with house battery and electrical.

Thanks! I meant to ask weight and thickness, so appreciate getting all of that information. We’re intending to build our own deck plate, and then use that as the basis of a modular system we can take in or out of the vehicle as the need arises. I suspect we’re going to go with a 12mm base plate and then secure our frame to that.

 

[Gravel Seeker]

Thanks! I meant to ask weight and thickness, so appreciate getting all of that information. We’re intending to build our own deck plate, and then use that as the basis of a modular system we can take in or out of the vehicle as the need arises. I suspect we’re going to go with a 12mm base plate and then secure our frame to that.

Just for the third seat row or for both the rear rows?
Mine is bolted to the floor with 2nd and 3rd row seat belt floor mounts. I'm not sure if there are any other solid anchor points. There are unused captive nuts in the floor, but not sure how strong they are.
You have the rear tie down points and there might have been two more, but I honestly can't recall now.

 

[uncompromise]

Just for the third seat row or for both the rear rows?
Mine is bolted to the floor with 2nd and 3rd row seat belt floor mounts. I'm not sure if there are any other solid anchor points. There are unused captive nuts in the floor, but not sure how strong they are.
You have the rear tie down points and there might have been two more, but I honestly can't recall now.

We've removed all of the seats, so the back is open like yours. So the intention is to build a solid flat floor that runs the entire length of the interior to the back of the driver and passenger seats. If possible, we would like to do it with one solid sheet of ply, since it should be both long enough and wide enough for that purpose. Of course, making the template and getting the cuts right will be no small exercise. Then we're thinking to add two marine hatches to the rear so that we can still get into the sub floor storage where the third seats were originally.

 

[Gravel Seeker]

We've removed all of the seats, so the back is open like yours. So the intention is to build a solid flat floor that runs the entire length of the interior to the back of the driver and passenger seats. If possible, we would like to do it with one solid sheet of ply, since it should be both long enough and wide enough for that purpose. Of course, making the template and getting the cuts right will be no small exercise. Then we're thinking to add two marine hatches to the rear so that we can still get into the sub floor storage where the third seats were originally.

Since mine is a commercial van, they build out a flat floor over the 2nd row footwell where they also anchor the cargo barrier. So I used wood to level out what was needed to make it flush front to back. I'm guessing you can make a more usable solution with support legs and keep some storage space in the footwell under the floor and possibly keep the floor single layer if you run electrical under the floor.
Good luck

 

[Gravel Seeker]

Not a lot happening, but got new wheels fitted yesterday. Had a set of Gen3 Pajero rims refurbished last fall (post# 16 previous page) and ordered up BFG KO2's. I have four from the other set of rims (same as the bronze ones, but in stock silver), and wanted a 5th for the spare, but didn't want to rotate in one new with the other used four tires. Turned out the importer of BFG to Norway wasn't able to provide KO2's at present.
I started thinking about what to do and tbh, KO2's are overkill for what you can do here. So with that in mind had a look at Nokian Rotiiva AT+. Having used Nokian for winter tires exclusively for two+ decades I am very familiar with the brand. I also ran Hakka Black on my previous BMW car and they were very good. Finding good (honest) tire reviews can be challenging and I posted a quick question about them on a Norwegian Pajero FB page to see if anyone use these and got very positive feedback. In general I asked if anyone had any negative feedback and there were not a lot to be concerned about. Grip in winter from season three on, but I don't use summer tires in winter, no matter how many snow crystals or alp symbols they have on the side wall. Winter tires in winter.

Got the AT+'s in 265/70-17 (31,61") - one size up from the 265/65-17 (30,56") the KO2's are and they are noticeably larger. I had done the calculation (entered the data and got the answer), but didn't think 3,4% larger would be that much IRL. They are 3,6% larger than the stock 260/60-18 (30,52"). Alas - they touch the inner fender slightly when turning. I hope this will be solved when I fit the lift kit, and if not it's just a little plastic that looks like it can be removed using regular tools - not a saw.

I ordered the rims painted bronze and it matches the color of the car pretty well. Happy with the result.

 

[Joey83]

The wheels compliment the car :)

 

[Angelbeast]

Would love to hear the current status of your Pajero!