Paint on bedliner for internal camping box

[mattjans]

Hi all...wasn't sure what forum this would fit in. So let me know if there's a better place.

I'm outfitting my Chevy Tracker with an internal "camping box" (i.e., drawers, sleeping platform). I want to make it waterproof and little more rugged. After a little online research it seems like a paint-on pick-up bedliner like the link below is a better option that FlexSeal or spray-on undercoating. Open to debate on this.

But my big question is, "Is this safe/reasonable to use on an indoor box, and something I'm going to sleep on?" Anyone notice strong smells that we wouldn't want inside the rig?" It's polyurethane and 30% xylene. Didn't see any strong statements about safety in the manual, but that doesn't mean it doesn't smell.

Thanks!

 

[smritte]

I have used Raptor Liner and Monstaliner. Both are horribly toxic until their dry. Plan on 2 days drying time. My Camping trailer has it on outside and floor, my cruiser has it on sides. My trailer spends most of its life in a small garage, if there was any odor, I would smell it. Spray on normally comes out a bit smoother than roll on. I sprayed my trailer and rolled my cruiser. Prep is everything on application just like anything. If you didn't want black, Raptor is tint able and Monsta comes in a bunch of colors.

Scott

 

[Boort]

@mattjans

Hi all...wasn't sure what forum this would fit in. So let me know if there's a better place.
But my big question is, "Is this safe/reasonable to use on an indoor box, and something I'm going to sleep on?" Anyone notice strong smells that we wouldn't want inside the rig?" It's polyurethane and 30% xylene. Didn't see any strong statements about safety in the manual, but that doesn't mean it doesn't smell.

I can't speak to using either of those products directly. I can say that polyurethane is food safe after it has fully cured ( https://www.popularwoodworking.com/questions-and-answers/q-a-is-polyurethane-food-safe/ ) Xylene (the solvent that keeps it liquid to be paintable) on the other hand is in the benzene family and is really not something you want to eat or inhale. That said it evaporates out of the solution during curing of the "bed liner" and should not pose much of a hazard after fully cured. The woodworking article linked above says 1 month dry time for polyurethane to be food safe. My experience would be minimum of 2 weeks if temps are in the 70's+ with good ventilation to keep the air moving over it and out of the shop.

For example my drawers in the 4Runner were given 3 coats of Spar Polyurethane. Dried out doors in 70-80 Degree temps between coats then stored indoors in the shop for a week or so before getting the carpet glued on with contact cement. Another 2-3 weeks in the shop/garage to finish drying before install. They still stunk up the truck for 4-6 weeks. Not sure if I was smelling the poly or the contact cement but I ended up leaving the windows open for a few days with a little fan running to move the air out during the day and setting out trays of Baking soda and then Fabreeze to absorb the smell. It's all good now.

Boort

 

[Great Out There]

I've done a few truck beds with the roll-on liners. Any 2-part product is pretty toxic - until it dries. Not an issue when cured.
The finished product is very tough. Probably overkill for a box inside your rig, but it would certainly work.
Just beware that bed liners have an abrasive surface - that is, grit in the mix for durability. If you want a super-smooth surface, use something else.

 

[MLGrace]

To avoid doing it twice start with monstaliner or raptor liner. You will be satisfied with the results.