Ok... trip report. But lets get a few things out of the way first.
1. I downloaded the route onto my phone which is using the GAIA (a GPS thingy) app. There is no way I or anyone could have followed this route without some sort of GPS device. I don't care if someone took your DELORME Atlas & Gazetteer and used a yellow highlighter and highlighted the exact route in the book for you. Trails are sometimes not labeled on the trail, or you might not know exactly where you are on the trail (or paved road) according to the book and you'll miss your turn-off. So a big thanks to the folks who wrote the original article and posted their route.
2. Even with the GPS and the blue line and arrow, I would still sometimes miss a turn-off. Sometimes the app would have plenty of "overlays" so roads were marked, and you could see your surroundings on the map (in this case, on my phone). Other times, all you've got is a blue line and an arrow. The arrow is you. If the arrow leaves the blue line, you've missed a turn somewhere, so you have to back-up and adjust course. Happened way more than once.
It becomes a big deal when you've only got the blue line (no overlays showing), and you have to detour for whatever reason (say a fire or something). If no overlays are present, and you don't know exactly where you are (happened quite a few times), it is hard to reroute yourself to get back on the trail. I started stopping every time I came to an intersection and marked where I was in the map book. Sometimes the trail wasn't marked, but I would still mark it in the book if I thought I was right (usually I was).
3. The PCOR is a mixture of pavement, maintained gravel roads, not so maintained gravel roads (brush is overgrown and touching both sides of your vehicle), and not maintained dirt roads (4WD might be necessary). And it switches back-and-forth. Early on I aired down to 20 PSI and just kept them there. The tires are "E" rated tires, so I figured even on pavement 20 PSI would be ok. I just didn't feel like always airing up-and-down every time I went on or off pavement.
Ok... let's get down to business.
Day One: Sunday morning. I left Longview on Sunday morning, and didn't hit Hood River till 1130, and started south on 35. I was admiring the scenery, and missed my first turn-off. So I had to turn around and get back on track. Pretty view of Mt Hood, paved road turns to gravel, and eventually you're back on pavement. Then I came to my first fire detour. So I had to figure out where I was exactly (it gets too easy to get lazy and just follow the arrow on the map, and you don't know where you are), and how to get back on the route. Which I did. Soon I was in the jungle; both sides of the truck getting hit with branches (the picture is not the worst of it).
But it was fun. And I'm also thinking "I'm the only one out here in the middle of nowhere; if I get stuck or break down, I'm kinda screwed. Maybe doing this thing solo isn't the smartest thing I've done. But also not the dumbest thing either by a longshot, so I'll keep going". I spent my first night parked off the road in an area that had recently been logged (by Sisi Butte). But it was fine, and a beautiful sunny morning Monday morning.
Day Two: Monday morning. I got up, made a wonderful breakfast on the tailgate, and was back on the trail. Soon a forest ranger truck stopped me (extremely polite), and said there was a fire up ahead so I needed to go back the way I came. Fortunately I had crossed a paved road not too far back before shutting it down for the night, so I figured out where I was, where I thought I might be able to get back on the trail, and that's what I did. Eventually I ended up in Oak Ridge, where I filled up the tank, and ate dinner at this little tiny BBQ place. Huge portions of food for a very reasonable price.
South of Oak Ridge is Hills Creek Lake. I found a nice place to back the truck up by the lake before it got too dark. There were reports it was going to be windy that day/evening, and it was. But I slept well, and again woke up to a beautiful sunrise. Of course, you could smell the smoke from the fires. So far I had been staying one step ahead of the fires.
Day Three: Tuesday morning. I got up, made a wonderful breakfast, and started back on the trail. It was gravel around the lake, but it eventually became paved. As I'm driving down the paved road watching my phone to see when to turn off the pavement, a little blue Chevy is coming the other way. It stops, and a lady gets out of the car waving her arms wanting me to stop. So I did, and she asked if I had a chainsaw (which I did). Seems her little group were about 15 miles up the road, and with the windstorm that night a tree had fallen across the road and blocked them. So I went up and cut the tree for them, and then we all headed back, and I took my turn-off (which I had passed going on the way to the fallen tree). The chainsaw got a good bit of use that day. You could see there was a lot of tree debris in the road from the windstorm. And I guess it also helped the fires to move faster/farther. At one point I saw a bear cross the road, and then about 100 yards later a tree was down. That was probably the quickest I've ever cleared the road.
Up to this point, I was thinking any ol' vehicle could do this route. And then I was following the route (the arrow on the blue line) when suddenly I was off the route. Did they really want me to take that gnarly dirt road I just passed on the left? Yup. I thought "this is crazy", but when did that ever stop me. So I put it into 4WD high range first gear, and ambled through it. Totally an unmaintained road. Ups and downs; side to side. My truck made easy work of it because the trail was dry (and my truck is awesome), but if it had been wet or muddy it would have been more of a challenge. You would definitely need a high-clearance vehicle for this stretch (it went on for quite a while). And I had to pull the chainsaw out at least twice for fallen trees in order to keep going forward. So this was the 4% I was talking about earlier where 4WD and high clearance is needed.
So eventually it ended at pavement, and soon I found myself at the entrance to Crater Lake. It was later-mid afternoon, and I was thinking "Do I really want to do the Crater Lake thing, or just keep going?". And I thought "You're here, do this". So I went into the park, and drove around Crater Lake. Very pretty, but I think (in hindsight) I could have saved myself an hour and a half (or more) by just going to the first overlook, taken a picture, and then turned around and headed back. Oh well; I've done Crater Lake. You can't go down to the water, and some will argue with me, but once you've seen the lake, it pretty much looks the same from no matter where you look at it.
So as I was leaving Crater Lake heading north on the North Entrance Road, it was getting late. And I was getting low on gas (at about 1/3 of a tank, but I also had 5 gallons in a jug in the back of the truck), and I could also see smoke in the distance. So I went to Diamond Lake and got gas (17 gallons for my 26 gallon gas tank), and decided to stop for the night along Diamond Lake at the "Broken Arrow" campground. It was getting dark by now, so dinner consisted of a spaghetti with meat sauce MRE (actually pretty good) eaten via headlamp. I did my usual rearranging of gear (some stuff moves from the back of the truck to the cab) and bedded down for the night. Was thinking about what I was going to make for breakfast in the morning. I was a little concerned about the fires, but I figured if something were to happen, the campground host/hostess would come bang on my truck and tell me we had to evacuate.
So at 0030 they came and banged on my truck and told me I had to leave. Now. The fire was advancing on our position. So the chainsaw and AR got moved from the cab to the back of the truck, I put my crocs on (didn't take the time to put my shoes and socks on), and headed out. I could see the sky was red in the not-too-far-distance as I was leaving. When she told me we had to leave, I asked her what direction were they sending folks, and she said "Head to Bend". There were already people who had been north of Diamond Lake that had already evacuated. So I took 138 east to 97, and headed north on 97 towards Bend along with a bunch of other folks.
Not too long after getting on 97 northbound I came to a rest area, and pulled in to regroup. It was 0130, I'm wearing crocs, my tires are still at 20 PSI, and it is cold out. So I aired the tires back up to 32 PSI, put on real shoes and socks, put on my hoodie, and thought about my next move. The fire was heading south. The PCOR was wanting me to keep going south if I were to finish it. I could crash in the rest area parking lot, and see what tomorrow would bring. But I had a feeling a lot of the roads were going to be blocked or closed due to the fires if I went back, and I'd be having to do a lot of dodging and detours and bypassing to try and salvage what little I had left of the PCOR (which the last part is paved, but I didn't know how much if any gravel roads I had left before the final paved portion).
I had been dodging the fires since I started this trip, but they were catching up with me. Sadly, I figured it was time to go home. I got about 3/4 of the way through the state/PCOR Oregon Portion before having to turn back north and head home.
I stayed on 97 north till I got to 58, and took 58 west to Eugene and I-5, and then north on I-5 (bypassed Portland on 205) to Longview, WA (home). My phone kept sending me alerts about fires and park closers and such as I was on 58, and you could smell the smoke. I got home just after 0600 (Wednesday morning). Slept (I was out) from 0700 - 1130, then got up and started unpacking and cleaning gear, putting it out to dry, and washed the truck.
Today: Thursday. Finished putting away (now cleaned & dried) gear where it belongs. Other than mild superficial trail pinstriping, no vehicle damage. Ok; I lied. I did break a center cap on one of my wheels when I got too close to a tree I had cut that had fallen across the road (I was in a rush because of the bear sighting - and yes I had bear spray on me). But I had a spare at home, so we're good.
So I enjoyed the trip. It would have been more fun with other participants, but if you always wait for everything to be perfect you'll never go anywhere. But I wouldn't recommend doing this PCOR solo. If something - anything had happened (to me or the truck) that stopped forward progress, some of those roads I don't know when the last time someone had traveled them. I mean, you were usually in the middle of nowhere. And most of the time it seemed I didn't have cell coverage.
That's my adventure. You missed a good one. Please let me know if you have any questions.