Overland Rig: Build it or Buy it?

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AaronP

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To the op...This is right in my wheelhouse. Ive had one of each. A 2007 Jku rubicon and a 2012 jku sport. Buy a sport. Regear it the first day. Frankenlift it based on your overland needs.


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Lindenwood

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Jay
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To the op...This is right in my wheelhouse. Ive had one of each. A 2007 Jku rubicon and a 2012 jku sport. Buy a sport. Regear it the first day. Frankenlift it based on your overland needs.


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Interesting!

For my own edification, could you elaborate on your experiences and knowledge that drive this pretty direct assertion?

Thanks! :)
 

AaronP

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Clemmons, NC
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Sorry, not meant to sound so dogmatic about it. I just can't stress that it all depends on your intended uses, cost and most importantly the fun had adding your own needs specific modifications.

A JKU RUBI is a drive-off-the-lot AWESOME vehicle. I easily put 5K miles on it off-road. I only sold mine because I went through a divorce at the time after owning it for a 2 years. If I remember I paid $38-ish for a manual NEW in Nov.2006. I ended up putting on a 2" lift, 33's, steel bumper and a roof rack. It's legit out of the box.

Once I was ready to get another Off-Road Vehicle I shopped hard and got a 2012 SPORT that was 6 months old with 11K miles on it. I paid $24K for it. It was an automatic that had all the power options except remote start, touchscreen and leather. So there's a difference of $14K-ish. My build evolved as I tried various lifts, pulled them off, then sold them to other Jeepers, and tried different brands. The great thing about shopping a Jeep is the aftermarket choices are great and installing a lift is really easy compared to other vehicle brands.

My final suspension / gear build was this:
35's that really measured 34", 4.56 Gears, Truetrac rear, Teraflex 2.5" springs (front), OME HD 2.5" springs (rear), JKS control arms, Grade 8 upgrade, JKS Quick Discos, Rancho RS9000 Shocks. I may be forgetting something?

The amount spent is less and I had the fun of adding what I wanted based on my needs. I never had issues with D30, the lockers I barely used on the RUBI before (I actually like the truetrac better for my type), and the ride on the SPORT was WAY smoother and nicer than the RUBI.

That's my experience in a nutshell for JKUs. Everybody's story is different, better or worse than mine...

A
 

Lindenwood

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,779
New Mexico
First Name
Jay
Last Name
M
Member #

2636

Sorry, not meant to sound so dogmatic about it. I just can't stress that it all depends on your intended uses, cost and most importantly the fun had adding your own needs specific modifications.

A JKU RUBI is a drive-off-the-lot AWESOME vehicle. I easily put 5K miles on it off-road. I only sold mine because I went through a divorce at the time after owning it for a 2 years. If I remember I paid $38-ish for a manual NEW in Nov.2006. I ended up putting on a 2" lift, 33's, steel bumper and a roof rack. It's legit out of the box.

Once I was ready to get another Off-Road Vehicle I shopped hard and got a 2012 SPORT that was 6 months old with 11K miles on it. I paid $24K for it. It was an automatic that had all the power options except remote start, touchscreen and leather. So there's a difference of $14K-ish. My build evolved as I tried various lifts, pulled them off, then sold them to other Jeepers, and tried different brands. The great thing about shopping a Jeep is the aftermarket choices are great and installing a lift is really easy compared to other vehicle brands.

My final suspension / gear build was this:
35's that really measured 34", 4.56 Gears, Truetrac rear, Teraflex 2.5" springs (front), OME HD 2.5" springs (rear), JKS control arms, Grade 8 upgrade, JKS Quick Discos, Rancho RS9000 Shocks. I may be forgetting something?

The amount spent is less and I had the fun of adding what I wanted based on my needs. I never had issues with D30, the lockers I barely used on the RUBI before (I actually like the truetrac better for my type), and the ride on the SPORT was WAY smoother and nicer than the RUBI.

That's my experience in a nutshell for JKUs. Everybody's story is different, better or worse than mine...

A
Thank you! Great info!

Btw, I am planning on Truetracs front and rear for mg 4Runner, as well!
 

PuraVida

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Caleb
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Austin
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So I think, if I may jump into this conversation, that that question is really subjective....
What's the purpose of the rig?
Is it going to be a DD?
What trails do you want to run? Beach, rock, forrest?
The point I am trying to make is the factory "modified" rigs wether Jeep, Toyota, Ford, Chevy or any others are purpose built for something as well as having good on road manners. The ford Raptor is for prerunning the Baja as an example and running 80mph down the highway. The Rubicon is built take some rough back country fire road and the like and still cruise the highway.
Now I do not know about the other brands enough to say on them, but on the debate of the Rubicon vs the sport or Sahara, I just debated this when buying our "new" 2010 JKU. We went for the Rubicon for a few reasons
I wanted a "base" vehicle that could go to those back woods roads as is. I have had rear lockers in a few of my new vehicles and love the ability to lock them in and go. So I knew I wanted lockers. If I had got a non Rubicon I could add lockers you are looking at an easy $1,000 for the rear since I can install them myself. To upgrade to the 4.10 ratios that are perfect for my goals is another $1200ish bucks for the gears. Now to lock the front you can but the d30 is weaker and since I am wanting a "overland" rig (roof rack, bumpers, winch, camping gear...interpretation... lots of weight) it would be smart to run the d44 in the front. New? As much as you want to spend... Used on CL around $1,000 to $1,200.
Next reason was resale, while we don't have any plans on selling our new rig the NADA accounts for the Rubicon and not for the $3-3,500 you have in axle upgrades. That sidelines to the next point, insurance; they will pay for those Rubicon "upgrades". (Once my rig is built up I do plan on getting my insurance to value it with all the added hardware).
Next point, factory reliability. It works and you can put 200,000 miles on it. I'm not afraid of road side repairs but my wife does drive 5-1/2 hrs one way back home about once a month for family and work, most of the time by herself with our two girls.
Now if I was going to throw everything under the jeep away be II wanted d60's and long arm suspension and all of that? Oh I would by the sport, why pay for what you are going to "throw away" (sale on CL)?
Also argument changes completely if you are asking about a 20-30+ year old rig... Anyway that's just my .02¢

Caleb
 
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