Overbuilt 2010 Chevy Colorado

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Overmodified

Rank IV
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

1,116
Star, Idaho, USA
First Name
Jim
Last Name
Spencer
Member #

9198

Hey Folks,
Now that the Colorado is on the road I thought I'd put up a build thread for those who are looking into building a 1st gen Colorado.
We've been heavily into the rock crawling thing for many years and still love to run the hardcore trails in our Landcruiser. Lately I've been wanting to build a rig that can be driven long distances in comfort but still be capable of getting into the outback with no reliability issues.
The Colorado body style has always appealed to me and it's factory 5.3 V8 is a favorite of mine. Also, the Colorado is as narrow as a Jeep for navigating the tighter trails.
Another big factor in choosing this truck is the interior room. I'm a bulky 6'4 and am very comfortable in this truck, much more driver room than my 2015 JK.
Here's what I started with..IMG_1276.JPG
 

Overmodified

Rank IV
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

1,116
Star, Idaho, USA
First Name
Jim
Last Name
Spencer
Member #

9198

I basically replaced everything from the transmission out. The master plan went something like this:

Narrowed 14 bolt rear axle with ARB and factory disc brakes.
Custom built High Pinion Dana 44 front axle with ARB and 3/4 ton brakes.
Atlas II Transfer case with 3.8 low range.
Heavier rear leaf springs, sprung over to handle the extra weight.
12" ORI struts on the front
Nissan Exterra steering box with ram assist.
Rear bumper with tire carrier.
Hideaway Warn 9000# winch.
Rock sliders.
37" MT tires on Raceline beadlocks.
ARB Single compressor for the lockers
ARB Dual compressor for onboard air.
House battery and isolator.
Bed cover/tent rack
ARB Fridge slide and separate bed slide for drawer system.

And a bunch more little things that will never end..

This is how it sits today. Still a long list of things that I'm working on but the mechanics are all set.IMG_0708.jpg
 

Overmodified

Rank IV
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

1,116
Star, Idaho, USA
First Name
Jim
Last Name
Spencer
Member #

9198

I've had this Idea for a pull out side drawer for a while now. Finally got it off the drawing board.
Its a little too high for my wife to see into, but it's mainly going to be for recovery gear and other mechanical junk. She'll have her own drawer that pulls out from the bed..x.jpgy.jpg
 
Last edited:

reaver

Rank VI
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Explorer I

3,680
Caldwell, ID, USA
First Name
Brian
Last Name
McGahuey
Member #

23711

Ham/GMRS Callsign
GMRS WRMV941
Dude, that is a sexy 355. I'd love to hear more about the sas you did. I'm debating doing this to my 04 once it's paid off. This is precisely what I wanted to do to mine before buying my xterra.

This addresses the biggest weakness of this truck. The front differential is a major weak point on these things. The differential seals where the cv's going in fail pretty regularly when the truck is used off road. I've had to replace the front left seal on mine twice in a year. The abs sensors are a pain in the rear as well. I have to do my passenger side one this weekend. I did the drivers side last Friday.

That being said, I've got an 04 with the 3.5l in line 5 with 190k on it. Still runs great.
 

Overmodified

Rank IV
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

1,116
Star, Idaho, USA
First Name
Jim
Last Name
Spencer
Member #

9198

Dude, that is a sexy 355. I'd love to hear more about the sas you did. I'm debating doing this to my 04 once it's paid off. This is precisely what I wanted to do to mine before buying my xterra.

This addresses the biggest weakness of this truck. The front differential is a major weak point on these things. The differential seals where the cv's going in fail pretty regularly when the truck is used off road. I've had to replace the front left seal on mine twice in a year. The abs sensors are a pain in the rear as well. I have to do my passenger side one this weekend. I did the drivers side last Friday.

That being said, I've got an 04 with the 3.5l in line 5 with 190k on it. Still runs great.
Thanks!

If you're in Caldwell we may be neighbors one day. I know, just what you need is another Californian moving in..

For the SAS (Solid axle swap) I used (2) Dana 44 housings to make the passenger drop high pinion. You could eliminate all that by using a factory low pinion 44 from a full size Chevy truck.

I copied Jeep JK axle bracketry locations and used Metal Cloak JK long arms for the radius arms. The hard part was trying to get the truck as low as possible but still having the up travel I needed. Things get pretty tight with the upper radius arms and the frame at full stuff.

Of course, you'll have to fabricate a custom cross member for the radius arms and t case support. I think that's why most folks go with leaf springs for the SAS on these trucks.

There's a guy on Pirate 4x4 that built a really nice Colorado and kept it IFS by using 3/4 ton truck axles and a custom built center section. If I did it again I would investigate that option since he's running 38's with a lot less lift and its holding up to his LS V8.

I'm trying to keep the Stabilitrack alive with ABS but so far I haven't been able to find a wheel sensor to fit with my rotor set up. THOR parts made an ABS kit for a standard Chevy truck axle that would make it easier than what I'm doing.

Let me know if you need any specific details.

Here's the front axle in mock up:

IMG_0318.jpgIMG_0225.jpg
 
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reaver

Rank VI
Member

Explorer I

3,680
Caldwell, ID, USA
First Name
Brian
Last Name
McGahuey
Member #

23711

Ham/GMRS Callsign
GMRS WRMV941
Thanks!

If you're in Caldwell we may be neighbors one day. I know, just what you need is another Californian moving in..

For the SAS (Solid axle swap) I used (2) Dana 44 housings to make the passenger drop high pinion. You could eliminate all that by using a factory low pinion 44 from a full size Chevy truck.

I copied Jeep JK axle bracketry locations and used Metal Cloak JK long arms for the radius arms. The hard part was trying to get the truck as low as possible but still having the up travel I needed. Things get pretty tight with the upper radius arms and the frame at full stuff.

Of course, you'll have to fabricate a custom cross member for the radius arms and t case support. I think that's why most folks go with leaf springs for the SAS on these trucks.

There's a guy on Pirate 4x4 that built a really nice Colorado and kept it IFS by using 3/4 ton truck axles and a custom built center section. If I did it again I would investigate that option since he's running 38's with a lot less lift and its holding up to his LS V8.

I'm trying to keep the Stabilitrack alive with ABS but so far I haven't been able to find a wheel sensor to fit with my rotor set up. THOR parts made an ABS kit for a standard Chevy truck axle that would make it easier than what I'm doing.

Let me know if you need any specific details.

Here's the front axle in mock up:

View attachment 140797View attachment 140798
Thanks for all the info!

I moved here from Seattle several years ago, so I'm a transplant as well.

Not counting the cost of the truck, what would you say this build cost you? I've got a buddy who's done a bunch of sas builds (not on a 355 though) who'd love the challenge and loves fabricating stuff.
 

Overmodified

Rank IV
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

1,116
Star, Idaho, USA
First Name
Jim
Last Name
Spencer
Member #

9198

Thanks Guys!

It took me about a year and a half to get it to where it is now. I wasn't in a hurry, but there was a lot of time spent on design and mock up since I wanted to make a rig that drove safely on the highway but would still be able to run the Rubicon comfortably. It could definitely be built more quickly and for a lot less $$ than the way I went.

As far as the cost goes, I'm in the drivetrain about $20k. This doesn't include the bumper, winch, sliders or any bed cover, compressor or tent stuff. Again, I was looking for maximum strength and longevity so I spent money on "Overbuilding" most items.
Some things that you could do to save about half the cost:

Run the stock transfer case $3200
Non beadlock wheels $1200
Eliminate ram assist $650
Standard axle shafts instead of chromoly $1200
Use low pinion front axle and 1/2 ton brakes $500+ (depending of fab skills)
Use a less expensive front spring. Leafs would probably save $1500.
Use stock rear axle with factory gov lock $2500

Keep in mind that my calculations don't include labor. I'd guess I have about 300 hrs in fab time plus shop supplies that you would need to think about depending on how much you can do yourself. I was fortunate enough to be able to do everything but build the driveshafts and set up the axle gears in house, so that saved quite a bit.

Yes, I have a $40k glorified S10. But here's another way to look at it. Before I started this truck I built a new Jeep Rubicon to basically the same specs but without the V8. Started with a $40k base vehicle and added another $15k worth of lift, wheels, tires, gears, axles trusses, bumpers ect. It was a nice rig, but I personally wasn't comfortable driving it long distances and it didn't have the LS V-8. Sure, I could spend another $25k+ to get a hemi swap, but that would put me at $90k and still have electric lockers with stock axles and T-case.
So really I saved myself $50k by building this truck. See how I did that? That is true male logic right there..(Don't let my wife see this post)
 
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