On-Board Welder.

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surfnturf

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Last weekend on the Fordyce Trail I lost steering to my left front wheel after shearing off two of the three studs holding the steering arm on to the knuckle. Luckily my buddy had a Premier Power Welder under the hood along the skills to use it. It turned out to be a 20 minute fix and we were back on the trail. Had we not had access to a welder, this could have been a catastrophic trip ender not to mention a huge hassle sourcing parts or extracting the jeep off of the trail.

Needles to say, I'm in the market for an onboard welder. After doing a lot of research online, it seems that the Premier Power Welder, LLC is the best option. Any of you have any other suggestions?IMG_0611.jpgIMG_0624.MOV.jpg
 

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This is what I got after a buddy saved my ass on the Mojave Road with one. @Mademan925
 
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BCMoto

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I am a onboard welder I just dont have a machine on board lol
 
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Road

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At Overland Expo East 2017, there was an excellent workshop put on by, if I recall correctly, one of the Land Rover team, on how to rig up an emergency stick welding unit from three 12v batteries, jumper cables, and welding rods.

Here's how one guy does it:

A single car battery lacks the juice to sustain a metal-melting arc between the tip of a welding rod and a piece of steel. (Zombies holding your supply hostage? Welding rods can be made from coat hangers, silica gel, lye, and paper.) So to build my welder, I wired three car batteries in series, then clamped a set of jumper cables between the negative lead of the first battery and a chunk of steel. With another set of cables, I linked the last battery’s positive lead to a welding rod.​
From this article:



Here's another article on similar, from Land Cruiser Owners Online: Emergency Welding Using Automotive Batteries

One of these days I'm gonna set this up and try it with the batteries I use. Great for remote repairs.

I can't afford the Premier Power Welder setup (and higher output alt than my 145amp) but it sure is a slick unit!
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izzywolf

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Hang on a sec. I'm a former welder and you guys are saying you can weld off the grid effectively without having a +200-pound generator
on hand? And what gauge is the part that needs to be fixed?

I can't be so helpful with what to buy, since I've only used Lincoln and Millers. I don't think it'll be worth it for an occasional repair.
 

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Hang on a sec. I'm a former welder and you guys are saying you can weld off the grid effectively without having a +200-pound generator
on hand? And what gauge is the part that needs to be fixed?

I can't be so helpful with what to buy, since I've only used Lincoln and Millers. I don't think it'll be worth it for an occasional repair.
all those big machines are is huge AC to DC power inverters… the model number denotes how many DC amps is being pushed out at max load… so yes just a couple of DC batteries wired up is all that is needed.

The military has been using the Primier Welders for years… great piece of kit…
 
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izzywolf

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all those big machines are is huge AC to DC power inverters… the model number denotes how many DC amps is being pushed out at max load… so yes just a couple of DC batteries wired up is all that is needed.

The military has been using the Primier Welders for years… great piece of kit…
Certainly true how simple welder are. There are literally no internal parts inside a welder.

But how do you adjust the amperage on these battery welders?
I assume that this functions as a stick welder.
 
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Road

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2 or more, 12v batteries wired in series and some arc welding sticks.
Yep, like I posted above, I learned with three 12v batts (I have two to start my diesel and two-deep cycles on top of that), jumper cables, the right rods and you can stick weld.

Hang on a sec. I'm a former welder and you guys are saying you can weld off the grid effectively without having a +200-pound generator
on hand? And what gauge is the part that needs to be fixed?

I can't be so helpful with what to buy, since I've only used Lincoln and Millers. I don't think it'll be worth it for an occasional repair.
For emergency repairs, you bet. You won't be laying down dimes, but you can sure weld up and repair an awful lot you might not of thought you could. I was impressed at how much the Land Rover guy could do. He had a couple pieces of 5/16" steel he was welding up.

Seeing this thread makes me eager to research it more as to which rods and try it myself. I'd much rather buy a halfway decent welder's helmet and carry it and some rods for the rare field emergency. Though the Premier Power Welder sure is nice, and allows you, evidently, to run other power tools like grinders.
.
 

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Yep, like I posted above, I learned with three 12v batts (I have two to start my diesel and two-deep cycles on top of that), jumper cables, the right rods and you can stick weld.



For emergency repairs, you bet. You won't be laying down dimes, but you can sure weld up and repair an awful lot you might not of thought you could. I was impressed at how much the Land Rover guy could do. He had a couple pieces of 5/16" steel he was welding up.

Seeing this thread makes me eager to research it more as to which rods and try it myself. I'd much rather buy a halfway decent welder's helmet and carry it and some rods for the rare field emergency. Though the Premier Power Welder sure is nice, and allows you, evidently, to run other power tools like grinders.
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Just get some cheap arc welding sticks from harbor freight or whatever your favorite hardware store is and a set or 2 of heavy jumper cables and give it a go. Its Just another bushcraft skill like using a rear wheel and a rope for a winch or wedging a log under your bumper and driving forward to jack up your vehicle. Been around since atleast ww2 since there is an army manual for field expedient bushcraft with this and much more in it
 
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jeepnjeff

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For those too cheap to buy a Premiere Power Welder, there's always the DIY Weldernator. Lots of information about that on the Internet.

Also, there's the ReadyWelder which is a wire-fed setup. You can run it in conjunction with the PPW or off batteries. Some have used the ReadyWelder with their CO2 OBA, too.
 

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Some years ago, I was building alternator welding systems for people. All the way through the early 2000's I used it more often then you would imagine. As time went on and the vehicles got better, I didn't use it as much. My cruiser is the first vehicle in decades that I didn't install one.

The biggest issue with converting an alternator is the alternator output and the rectifier design. If you find documentation on how to make one, I hope they mention "avalanche diodes". Rectifiers with this design need to be changed to a "non avalanche". The output is controlled by rpm, the stick starts cold and takes some practice to get it going. With a 100 amp alt, I can melt 1/4 plate if I'm not watching. I've built them using everything from 80 amp to 150 amp alternators. The best over all being around 100. The higher you go, the harder it is to dial it down for thinner metals. For the pro welders out there, the closed circuit voltage is around 30 volts. My preferred rod is 6011 due to the fact the current ends up being a bit high.
I also played around with battery welding and found out a few things, some the hard way. First NEVER use jumper cables. I have watched the heat from the connection melt the lead post on the battery. You want clamps. You can use jumper cables if you really need to but watch the connections. I have seen this several times over the years. Next, two batteries in series is way more controllable. With three the current is way too high and melts things easily. If you want to lay a nice bead on 1/2 inch or thicker then go to three. Before I started making alternator welders I used batteries. This would be from late 70's through mid 80's? My rod here was 6010, 6013 or if it was clean 7018.

Nice add on for either of these is a spool gun. I never added one on but I have seen and used them on alternator welders as well as battery welders. I think the battery welder was three batteries. With the flux core i thought the current was high and would have liked to try two batteries.
 

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I have a Readywelder 10000-CS Mig welder. It works very well with just two car batteries. It comes with all the connections needed. Fortunately, I haven't had to use it. The one time I did I hadn't bought one yet. I almost used it once on a friend's truck but somebody else whipped theirs out before I got mine out. LOL

 

surfnturf

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I have a Readywelder 10000-CS Mig welder. It works very well with just two car batteries. It comes with all the connections needed. Fortunately, I haven't had to use it. The one time I did I hadn't bought one yet. I almost used it once on a friend's truck but somebody else whipped theirs out before I got mine out. LOL

Yes... I'm considering the Readywelder. I also like what I'm seeing with the Shop Now (karnagewelder.com) . I like that the Karnage Welder is fully self contained and can operate without the need to pull and stack batteries.
 
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Yes... I'm considering the Readywelder. I also like what I'm seeing with the Shop Now (karnagewelder.com) . I like that the Karnage Welder is fully self contained and can operate without the need to pull and stack batteries.
That looks like a nice unit. Self-contained is a really nice feature. I would have trouble deciding between the two. I have never seen the Karnagewelder in person though.

I do like that the Readywelder is a spool gun instead of a standard wire feed mig. I can also hook it up to my welder in Constand Voltage mode and use it as a spool gun. If you are solo you can use your car battery and a lithium jump start battery with the Readywelder. Just don't use all your battery power up. LOL Really no worries with that just doing a quick trail repair if the batteries are in good shape.

 

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I just finished building one. Here's the thread DIY Welder. I added a speed control to and this thread made me do a final update. Overall it works very well. Welding with a spool gun and shield wire takes a slightly diffrent technique than regular mig.
I can also build alternator welders. It takes a bit more skill. Your required to remove the alternators voltage regulator and change it to an external type. If your alternator is computer controlled its much easier. My TJ only required me to tie into the computer control wire. All of my older vehicles required me to move the regulator.
Then there's the two battery and arc rod type. This is the simplest. I did this before I started building alternator welders. The big issue here is, you have uncontrolled current. A bit hot for 1/4 metal , too hot for thinner.

The difference between them.

Alternator welders you can buy have two diffrent designs. The type I made worked well but require a bit of automotive skill to build and is like this one Premier. The second type I cant remember the name but is very expensive to buy and works as well as my welding machines.
The basic design I made puts down some real nice beads. The output is controlled by engine rpm. I used a lever and cable mounted to my control box, under the hood. Most of my welding was done about 1500 rpm. Starting the arc is a bit tricky because unlike a welding machine, an alternator doesn't put out power, it has to be drawn from it. You have to drag the rod quickly to start the arc. It took a while to get the technique right. Until you do, you ruin a few rods sticking them to the metal.

Spool gun. Spool gun takes up a little more room then the alternator welder. The requirement is a dual battery system. The one I just made is similar to this one. Ready Welder. There's another one out there (Karnage welder). This is a welder and a case with a 24 volt lithium battery installed. Self powered. I haven't seen it in person but it looks nice if you have the room for it. Looking at the web sites. As far as I can tell neither of these has a wire speed control like mine. Its not really needed but the weld comes out nicer.

Battery welder. Simple, takes up less room but the current is a bit much. I used this type for a couple of years. Everyone will tell you to run it with three batteries. Don't, the output is way too high and two works better for field welding.

The only reason I didn't build an alternator welder on my cruiser is I converted it to a high output 6 phase. I produce 150 amps at idle, 275 at 1500 rpm. That's way too much for most metal's your field welding.
If you want, I can draw out a diagram for any of the ones I've built.
 
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This thread made me go update my spool gun welder. The pictures now include a speed controller.
 

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found this discussion via google. I'm looking to replace the alternator on my ford van with a high power one (so it has enough output at idle to run an inverter for computers and power tools), and want to see if I can shoehorn in welding capability as well. I've been looking at 350-400A alternators that can produce up to 250A or so at idle (I don't expect to use that much, but I figure it's better to have higher capacity and run it at partial load than to strain things running them close to max)

but some of the comments above are making it sound like having too much power available makes the welding option impractical. Is there anyone who has made a control circuit that will manage the alternator output rather than the simple approach of just tieing it to 12v and adjusting the rpm?