DeBo3359
Rank II
Off-Road Ranger I
Already looking at reinforcing the frame and adding a receiver to the rear. Making a few changes to the front so I can add a storage box.
No Boundaries - New trailer by Forest River
- Thread starter jdxplor
- Start date
yeah, they got the frames made by Lippert and they look to be about 14ga. my 10.6 had a few welds where the wire feed must have had problems because the puddle stopped short of a full weld and there were some wire pieces still stuck to the weld. a little shoddy, but hopefully good enough to hold a while. i just take some angle and flat bar pieces with me along with some Tek5 screws should i need to make a field repair. not sure about a receiver in the rear...there aint too much back there to weld to. the corrugated plastic to protect the undercarriage was a bit weak for me, so I used some pop rivet threaded inserts every 16" and ran alum. angle with sheet metal. that way i can pull it and inspect ever so often. they used shot pins with washers to attach the plastic sheet and then the manual says to inspect the frame yearly....kind of hard to do with the pins.
sounds like you got it under wraps so im sure it will work fine, i was a bit upset seeing the shoddy work on a new camper, but so far its holding up ok. it was in my driveway during the cat 1 hurricane we got a few weeks ago and it didn't have any leaks after getting pounded by wind and rain, so thats a plus.
DeBo3359
Rank II
Off-Road Ranger I
I was thinking about running a square tube front to back to pick up the load on the rear receiver. I have a cheap little welder I can use. Maybe do a little more reinforcing at the same time. I like the idea of replacing the existing cover with sheet metal. Lol I’ve only had it 3 days and already planning on how to pull it apart.
DeBo3359
Rank II
Off-Road Ranger I
ha, yeah...i tore into mine right away and added a few things, fixed a few things, and then added solar panels and tongue box to house the MPPT charger, inverter and battery. i did a thread on here earlier where the wife got me to install snaps on the interior walls and she made pouches with snaps that can snap to the wall and be a lot of low profile storage. i put a pouch under the window on the door so i can just open the door and have flashlight, matches, etc right there without having to climb in the camper.
not sure how youd run tubing front to back...mine has a water tank and stuff in the way, plus the cross braces are pretty damn thin. i thought about doing some welding, but I'm afraid that the framing members are so thin that if there was some stress, the weld would tear the thin metal around it. i considered getting some 3/16" flatbar and welding it to the frame, about 10" long so that way I can get a good bit of surface area and then weld the new member to the thick flatbar. thats on the back burner now...but if i have to modify the frame, i def want to have a doubler plate to grab as much area as i can.
DeBo3359
Rank II
Off-Road Ranger I
Hey Grubworm, sounds like you have done some good mods. I was thinking of doing something about the cheap underbelly plastic sheet and shortening that long water hose for emptying the tank. Can you post some pictures of the sheet metal mod you did?
Here are a couple of pictures I have of mods I did so far on mine.
Sliding solar panels - 2x 100W under the tent
Tool box for battery, Ctek dc-dc charger, solar MPPT, powermon power monitor
Ceiling cargo net for bed mats when traveling
Legs for rear door
Roll out table 4x7 that hooks to side, added bike mounts
Velcro strips for cargo storage
Rear bolt on 2" hitch
Sliding solar panels - 2x 100W under the tent
Tool box for battery, Ctek dc-dc charger, solar MPPT, powermon power monitor
Ceiling cargo net for bed mats when traveling
Legs for rear door
Roll out table 4x7 that hooks to side, added bike mounts
Velcro strips for cargo storage
Rear bolt on 2" hitch
Attachments
Very cool...that's some great work! Obviously you're pretty skilled, so none of the little defects in manufacturing are going to be a big deal for you. Its a very capable little camper as is and you just took it up a few more levels. I don't have pics of the underbelly and I decided to redo some of what I had, but its been raining every day for a while, so I've been wood working in my shop instead. I'm using the rivet threaded inserts so I can use 1/4-20 machine screws and remove the panels when needs be. I sure didn't like the corrugated plastic sheet and using shot pins...now the frame is swiss cheese with all those holes. Have you used the rivet threaded inserts before? They are perfect for this application.
I was considering using 1" pipe flanges fastened to the rear door and then just thread in the pipe legs when I need them. I like having the extra area with the rear door as a deck. How did you rig up the side where the sliding table can hook? I haven't penetrated the exterior walls yet, but I would guess that you added a flat bar or something with a good bit of surface area to it to support the weight.
I really like your work. I'll attach a pic, but you can see where I went with a larger tongue tool box and of course that jammed me up on room for the LP tank. I'm short by 2", so I'll just make a mount and offset the tank from behind the jack.
As far a defects go, I have had mine out for a few moderate off-road trips and have not had much issues. My first trip I did have some inside stuff rattle loose. I later found out they sold me the trailer with 70psi in the tires. Forest River sent out a bulletin warning not to fill past 45psi (around there). I will air down more if it gets really rocky.
I have not used the rivet threaded inserts but I think that is a great idea. I will be looking into that.
The door legs were simple, I used 2" pvc for the legs. I bolted a threaded end cap to the door ( you need to cut off the square end). The legs spin on in 5 seconds. Because the door is secure to the trailer the only force is downward so it easily supports my weight. I like using it as a table or just to keep critters out when the door is open to air things out.
The gear table sits on the wheel well. I original drilled a hole in bothe the table and wheel well and dropped a pin to stop movement. This was a bit cumbersome, so I added a 1" board to the back (like a frame). This falls nicely into the space between the wheel well and the wall. The legs are just pvc pipe. I have now used two sizes of pipe, one inside the other with several holes drilled so I can adjust the height. I did not built this table to dance on but is has supported the weight of a black bear that jumped on it the first night we set it up.
My LP tank did have to get moved forward. I used the original carrier but no longer have it below the frame. It now sits flush on top of the frame and is right against the lift. You might get away with the same.
I have not used the rivet threaded inserts but I think that is a great idea. I will be looking into that.
The door legs were simple, I used 2" pvc for the legs. I bolted a threaded end cap to the door ( you need to cut off the square end). The legs spin on in 5 seconds. Because the door is secure to the trailer the only force is downward so it easily supports my weight. I like using it as a table or just to keep critters out when the door is open to air things out.
The gear table sits on the wheel well. I original drilled a hole in bothe the table and wheel well and dropped a pin to stop movement. This was a bit cumbersome, so I added a 1" board to the back (like a frame). This falls nicely into the space between the wheel well and the wall. The legs are just pvc pipe. I have now used two sizes of pipe, one inside the other with several holes drilled so I can adjust the height. I did not built this table to dance on but is has supported the weight of a black bear that jumped on it the first night we set it up.
My LP tank did have to get moved forward. I used the original carrier but no longer have it below the frame. It now sits flush on top of the frame and is right against the lift. You might get away with the same.
I picked up a 10.6 a couple days ago and just saw this forum and you all have done some awesome work!! I can’t take any credit but here’s a picture of the added storage box the previous owner added, you can take off the plastic container and flip the metal base to become more of a tray with tie down holds. I’m thinking about flipping it into a tray and strapping down a small generator, any thoughts...both on if that’s smart and also recommend the generator with enough power for the A/C unit? I live in Oklahoma but travel all around the SW and Arkansas so A/C is needed a lot and we stay fairly primitive. You can see he added an additional door above the cooler/stove that goes right into the storage spot in the cab, no water leaks from spraying it with a hose. He also added a telescoping ladder to the back which is not only used for getting on the top, but also used as the same concept for holding the ramp up when folded in and has a ratchet strap to the bumper so with the right angle outward and downward pressure it won’t collapse.
Also, I’ve seen some posts about dirtbike size and I have a 2018 KTM 350 EXC stock height and bars and it fits just fine. It was much more easy getting it in and out than I thought. Granted, I’m only 5’9” but thought having to get the bike up and in while crouching would be a pain, not bad.
Also, I’ve seen some posts about dirtbike size and I have a 2018 KTM 350 EXC stock height and bars and it fits just fine. It was much more easy getting it in and out than I thought. Granted, I’m only 5’9” but thought having to get the bike up and in while crouching would be a pain, not bad.
Very cool. I like the door above the stove slide out, I guess it accesses the storage area inside pretty well? We store clothes and towels. etc up there in ours and being able to open the door and grab some towels without going in is pretty sweet. The rack over the LP tank is nice. I see the power jack was removed and a side mounted hand wind replaced it. Good move. The power jack is more of a pain and very unnecessary for such a light unit...after seeing this, I am DEFINITELY swapping mine. I bought a 30amp twist lock and put a 6" pigtail on it with a male 120v plug on the other end. Now I can run a regular extension cord to the unit and plug into the pigtail. I find a 120v 20a recepticle is plenty for the a/c. and easier to find a regular outlet if youre not at a campsite with 30a plugs. You have a very fun and very capable camper!
The wife and I just started going to Arkansas and love it! Even bought kayaks specifically to go up there. Where do yall go? We are looking at a trip to Buffalo River next month. Hoping to find some good spots there.
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Yep, goes directly to that storage area and almost seems that’s how it should have been built with easy access at least from one side to that storage area. He complained about the jack as well and said this one was much better to deal with, it’s a little short but I’ve since put a block under haha. I just got in the 120v 20a adapter to run to the house and that’s much better, just not too generator savy to know which would be best to run the A/C while we’re off grid. He did add a second battery and has them synced so that’ll give me a little more 12v run time. I’m also very interested to see that bottom side material switched out to something more durable, I’m not much of a handyman but I know people who would help me out there.
My wife and I also just purchased some kayaks a couple months ago and have been taking them out around here, but planning to get them to Arkansas soon! There’s plenty of places that with two vehicles you can drop off and pick up miles down to make a whole day or even overnight float trip, just need to look into it more. I’m usually either on the bike or rock climbing so I stay around Eureka Springs & Mulberry (NW Arkansas) for a short trip with some fun forest roads and a little climbing place called Fern just north of Mulberry. Most favorite area is over by Jasper, that’s where you’ll want to go with the kayaks onto the Buffalo and also has some great climbing around those parts as well, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is popular to visit and has more than just climbing.
A few photos of the other additions. Quick question though, I have the installed permanent roof rails (seen in photos) , which model of crossbar fits into those so I can use the supplied rhino rack kayak mount? Previous owner had an entire full covered rhino rack for his RTT but kept that so just I’m just needing the crossbars to attach my kayak. Thanks in advanced.
Off-Road Ranger I
My wife and I have been looking at the No Bo's for a while now. Thinking we MAY trade out little 20ft tow behind in on one, but have yet to take the plunge. We are actually looking for more of a support platform for out F-150/Skamper combo then additions living space, but then again.... (this, of course, is why we haven't gotten one, we still don't know what we want.)
Thanks for the info...I was checking out the Jasper area on google and that definitely sounds like a great area. The wife had some friends that liked Eureka Springs, so I'm sure we'll head up there too.
You mentioned running a/c on a genny. I bought this one at Harbor Freight and used it a good bit at the house when storms knock out power...I tried running the a/c on the NoBo and it ran great for a while testing it in my driveway. I haven't used the genny on a trip yet, but I might take it along if I find a nice spot that doesn't have power. It was around $400 and seems very well built and doesnt need the oil/gas mix.
Very cool!!
There are several of the crossbars that will fit the Rhino rails...I think mine are the Aero crossbars. I ordered some Rhino stuff from etrailer.com. I needed some of the threaded square nuts that slide in the slots and I bolted aluminium angle to them and made my own solar panel mounts. I think Thule and other brand bars will fit as well.
mine came with these bars and kayak rack, i added the aluminium angle mounts for a low profile way to have solar panels on top and still use the crossbars for gear. also have the bat-wing awning mounted to the bars
