New Member Looking to build in LR3

[jbullock78]

Same here, 4-500 for a hidden winch mount when a lucky 8 bumper is $800? If I ever get done paying for college and weddings I’ll replace the bumper, but until then this works great.

What did you use for mounting hardware? I just ordered the Universal Channel Winch Mount and was curious what was needed.
Thanks!
James

 

[m_lars]

What did you use for mounting hardware? I just ordered the Universal Channel Winch Mount and was curious what was needed.
Thanks!
James

Four 1/2” grade 8 bolts with heavy flat washers, I don’t recall the length though.

 

[jbullock78]

sweet just needed a place to start- I appreciate your input!
James

 

[Max Hawks]

Hi all,

I’ve been going into the backcountry for years under my own power. Now looking to extend deeper. I own an ‘07 LR3. Looking for advice on must haves and essential mods.

Cheers

Please keep us updated on the build. I have a 2009 which I plan to start converting into our family (kid/dog) camper. My first mod is to get a front runner roof rack and covert the air suspension to HD coils.
Good Luck!! They are awesome machines.

 

[m_lars]

Please keep us updated on the build. I have a 2009 which I plan to start converting into our family (kid/dog) camper. My first mod is to get a front runner roof rack and covert the air suspension to HD coils.
Good Luck!! They are awesome machines.

Why do you want to covert to coils? I researched this when I became frustrated that 2 aftermarket compressors failed one after the other. Then I figured out aftermarket compressors are junk. I my opinion you lose too much going to coils. With the EAS you get: great ride quality, ride height is adjustable, cross link articulation and (a very big one for me) self leveling. My LR3 is on ‘06 and it’s has required some work to keep it working, but it’s a good system if you keep it up. When I replaced my front struts they were dated 2006. Original 11 year old struts with 180k on them? That’s pretty impressive.

 

[Max Hawks]

Why do you want to covert to coils? I researched this when I became frustrated that 2 aftermarket compressors failed one after the other. Then I figured out aftermarket compressors are junk. I my opinion you lose too much going to coils. With the EAS you get: great ride quality, ride height is adjustable, cross link articulation and (a very big one for me) self leveling. My LR3 is on ‘06 and it’s has required some work to keep it working, but it’s a good system if you keep it up. When I replaced my front struts they were dated 2006. Original 11 year old struts with 180k on them? That’s pretty impressive.

Here are my thoughts. This is based on my old 2001 Series II and my wifes SUV. Keep
in my mind, my rig wont be my daily driver anymore. Based on the mileage 123k, the bags/compressor have not been replaced; the lines have not rusted... based on feedback from my local shop and blogs, the air suspension systems are very close to needing some type of service. In addition, I plan to put a lot of weight in it (kids, dogs, gear, cooler) which will place a strain on the bags. Since im close to that potential repair, I plan to install some old man emu HD units which will a) address my load requirements; b) avoid the bags deflating somewhere on a backroad. As you noted, Im willing to sacrifice the onroad/off-road ride quality for a system that has no electronics or motors.

 

[m_lars]

Here are my thoughts. This is based on my old 2001 Series II and my wifes SUV. Keep
in my mind, my rig wont be my daily driver anymore. Based on the mileage 123k, the bags/compressor have not been replaced; the lines have not rusted... based on feedback from my local shop and blogs, the air suspension systems are very close to needing some type of service. In addition, I plan to put a lot of weight in it (kids, dogs, gear, cooler) which will place a strain on the bags. Since im close to that potential repair, I plan to install some old man emu HD units which will a) address my load requirements; b) avoid the bags deflating somewhere on a backroad. As you noted, Im willing to sacrifice the onroad/off-road ride quality for a system that has no electronics or motors.

You could replace all the airbags and the compressor for a little more than the HD kit with the 2” lift. The lines are plastic and from all I can tell very robust. That leaves 3 air valves and 4 wheel sensors. It’s not a complicated system once you wrap your head around it and I t’s light years ahead of the EAS on the Disco II. You talk about loading it heavy and that’s one area the EAS shines. It’s always level, not matter what. Light load, heavy load doesn’t matter. Some may argue, but I think you’ll lose off-road ability putting stiff suspension coils. Stiffer coils are going to be even more resistant to compressing, while the EAS will actually try to mimic a solid axle by letting one wheel compress and letting the other droop. I hear you on the peace of mind simplicity, but for me it wasn’t worth the downsides. I’ve been in some pretty remote locations and it’s never left me stranded.

 

[Mike W]

Agreed, keep EAS. It's one of the best things about the L319 Land Rovers.

 

[Max Hawks]

Here are my thoughts. This is based on my old 2001 Series II and my wifes SUV. Keep
in my mind, my rig wont be my daily driver anymore. Based on the mileage 123k, the bags/compressor have not been replaced; the lines have not rusted... based on feedback from my local shop and blogs, the air suspension systems are very close to needing some type of service. In addition, I plan to put a lot of weight in it (kids, dogs, gear, cooler) which will place a strain on the bags. Since im close to that potential repair, I plan to install some old man emu HD units which will a) address my load requirements; b) avoid the bags deflating somewhere on a backroad. As you noted, Im willing to sacrifice the onroad/off-road ride quality for a system that has no electronics or motors.

I appreciate the feedback. I’ll do some more research on the replacement air parts and run a comparison on cost, value.. what did you do about using a larger sidewall tire, such as a 32”. Do you have Johnson rods?

 

[Mike W]

I appreciate the feedback. I’ll do some more research on the replacement air parts and run a comparison on cost, value.. what did you do about using a larger sidewall tire, such as a 32”. Do you have Johnson rods?

I run 265/65R18 which is not quite 32". A size that will still barely fit in the spare wheel area if you need and the size at which you barely need to modify anything.

I say, emphatically, No... don't buy rods. now hear me out...

1. Rods do NOT give you more clearance for tires or tire size. The tire has to turn lock to lock and articulate up and down without rubbing on anything. Rods change the AT REST height of the suspension only.
2. Rods DO give you more clearance under your vehicle off road, BUT you can use the stock off road height function or bump it up more with a GAP IID tool, which you should have if you really off road an L319. (The GAP tool lets you bypass bad sensors, manually inflate bags, diagnose and reset computer issues, and much more.)
3. You can get bump stop extensions and use rods, but the bump stops are usually not what you rub first. So the rods don't actually help much... Usually you rub on the frame horns (more of an LR4 problem) or the fender wells in front or near wire harnesses. You also kinda ruin the ride when you pump up the bags a lot. I run mine as close to stock height as the trail would allow .. for comfort. They also put more strain on tie rod ends, CV joins and put your camber angles out a bit, the steering gets a little more touchy.
4. Johnson rods specifically (and to some degree the other sellers) spread false information and make you think you need them to handle larger tires, totally ignoring the reality of EAS. I find them to be dishonest people and products.

Now the real reason 99% of people buy them.... for looks.. not logic. If you have to buy them, just get them from someone a little more honest. Lucky8 or someone else.

I run mine stock pretty much all the time. If I am somewhere a little nutty like the Ozarks Rally, ill bump it up with my IID tool by 20-40mm and try to use normal height. If I rub, I'll hit the off road height button.

A vehicle that can do all the amazing things this one does, at stock suspension height with amazing ride quality should be more appreciated. It's a magic carpet.

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

Here are my thoughts. This is based on my old 2001 Series II and my wifes SUV. Keep
in my mind, my rig wont be my daily driver anymore. Based on the mileage 123k, the bags/compressor have not been replaced; the lines have not rusted... based on feedback from my local shop and blogs, the air suspension systems are very close to needing some type of service. In addition, I plan to put a lot of weight in it (kids, dogs, gear, cooler) which will place a strain on the bags. Since im close to that potential repair, I plan to install some old man emu HD units which will a) address my load requirements; b) avoid the bags deflating somewhere on a backroad. As you noted, Im willing to sacrifice the onroad/off-road ride quality for a system that has no electronics or motors.

I have coil springs on my 2000 LRD2 and it's the best riding car (considering the 100" wheel base) of any car I've owned short of my old Lincoln. I say fix it once with coils and forget it the rest of it's life. I recently added the 2' spacer lifts under my stock OEM springs and very happy with the ride and height. I also added 1" wheel spacers for a better stance and tire clearance. I'm putting on the 265/75R/16" and only had to trim the front Valance to avoid interference. It will be better when I install my off road bumper though.

 

[m_lars]

I appreciate the feedback. I’ll do some more research on the replacement air parts and run a comparison on cost, value.. what did you do about using a larger sidewall tire, such as a 32”. Do you have Johnson rods?

I’m not sure who this one was directed at. If it was me, I run 265/70/18 Cooper S/T Maxx. According to Cooper they’re 32.87” overall diameter. I have about an 1”-1 1/4” of height added via the Gap tool and had it aligned at that height. I had to flatten the pinch seam in the rear wheel wells and re-route the rear heater lines for 33’s. The added height was mostly for looks (didn’t care for the tires tucked in the wheel well like a low rider look) but it is still an inch more ground clearance plus the added height from the tires. It’s a setup I’m really happy with.

I have coil springs on my 2000 LRD2 and it's the best riding car (considering the 100" wheel base) of any car I've owned short of my old Lincoln. I say fix it once with coils and forget it the rest of it's life.

Keep in mind your D2 is solid axle which has the added benefit off road of being solid axle. It, of course, responds very differently to obstacles than the 4 wheel independent suspension of the LR3. We had an ‘04 D2 as the family truckster. While I was very surprised at the ride comfort, the LR3 EAS far surpasses it in ride comfort and handling. I get the appeal of the coils and forget about it philosophy, but it’s really not that problematic of a system. Plus shocks need to be replaced wether they have coil springs or air springs.

The GAP tool lets you bypass bad sensors

Where is this ability found? I did not know it had this functionality.

 

[Mike W]

Where is this ability found? I did not know it had this functionality.

Put eas in build mode and it will stop auto adjusting, then manually change the inflation.

 

[m_lars]

Put eas in build mode and it will stop auto adjusting, then manually change the inflation.

Ah, not bypass a bad sensor per se, but bypassing the whole system. Makes sense.