Need suggestions using Anderson plug

[Nikita]

Hi, I have an Anderson plug on my F150 and want to build a power station to mostly power my fridge (thinking Dual sides ARB 101 QT) Want to keep lithium battery or batteries topped off while driving and run fridge. I know I need and pure sine Inverter, one or two lithium batteries (thinking 100 AMP/HR) and a control to know battery levels etc. Want the battery to be able to charge and use in below freezing and over 100 temperature range and charge with anderson plug, generator and possibly solar.

Suggestions on make/model for:
fridge/freezer (ARB or Dometic I am thinking)
pure sine INverter (Min of 1000 Watt)
lithium batteries (100 AMP/HR??)
control center (show charging and levels)

That will hold up and work in:
Temperatures in subzero to 120 degrees

That will charge/run my fridge with:
Anderson plug while driving
Solar
Generator

All items bolted down in my covered F150 truck bed.

Any thoughts/ideas much appreciated!

 

[WTSMatt]

I’m currently building similar setup in bed of my F150. I have purchased the following:
2 100w Renogy solar panels
ICECO 60l dual zone
Alu-cab tilting fridge slide
Redarc 1225D controller
Redarc FK40 fuse
Renogy AGM battery
Renogy battery box

 

[ProtonDecay]

This is what works for me:

1) Battleborn 100ah - regular (don't need the heated one for the amount of cold we will experience) - $899 from Battleborn (free shipping)
2) Renogy 40A DC to DC Charger - $170 from Amazon - the 20A would have been fine for us.
3) Victron monitor (this was a waste - way overkill for my needs - much cheaper simple monitors available for <$20)
4) 12-way fuse block (again, overkill - a 6-way would have been fine for <$20)
5) A couple of Quick Charge 3.0 Cigarette Lighter Outlet Splitter, 12V USB Charger from Amazon $14 ea
6) A Box to put it all in that I made from scrap aluminum and rivets, some 4AWG and 6AWG cable (could have gone 6 and saved a couple lbs) and some scrap 16g wire, nuts/bolts. Figure another $100 if I bought all the bits plus a cheap toolbox to put it in.
7) 4AWG cable from the primary battery (100A fused, too much but its what I had laying around) to the DC-DC charger - Anderson connectors - that's probably overkill for the length of the run (maybe 15').
8) 6AWG cable from the DC-DC to the battery box - Anderson connectors - I sized this run at 5' to allow for removal from under the bed cover.


Remaining stuff on my list: DC to AC inverter - I don't really need this, so am being lazy about making, but I left room in the box, so.... 10AWG output line for my air compressor (using the clips for now) and conversion of my fridge from cigarette plug to Anderson


Anderson connectors are great, if a bit pricey. Just remember that they are different plug sizes for different cable sizes, and be careful to not mess up the crimping.


Other caveats - I know this is obvious, but remember that polarity matters in DC - hooking up the cigarette plugs wrong may result in it just not working or your device (vacuum cleaner, cough-cough) running in reverse! Fuse everything (at the primary, at the secondary, and on each device), especially stuff that can start a fire or arc weld your bits together!

The box fits (barely) under my retractable bed cover. We run a Dometic dual zone and a couple of BiPAP machines, plus general camp lighting and recharge of battery devices (phones, headlamps, etc.) - we could easily go for 3 nights before firing up the rig but rarely stay in one spot for more than 2 nights.

At this point I've kind of stopped even thinking about it other than to confirm that the DC-DC charger lights up when I start the truck. Here are a couple pics - let me know if you want more.

 

[Luinil Explorations]

What will you be powering with the 1000 watt inverter?

The Item you are missing is the DC to DC charger. I use this one, Kisae DMT1250. It can output up to 50 amps and includes a MPPT solar controller. The thing I like about it is that it has a sensing wire that tells it when the vehicle engine is running. If the vehicle is running the unit charges. If it not running then the unit turns off so there is no possibility of draining the house battery.

On a recent trip to southern I was running a 42 quart fridge and a small freezer. Both draw about 3.5 amps. The freezer ran almost continuously in the 80 to 90 degree weather. The 100 amp hour battery would start at 100% capacity when we got to camp around 4:00 pm. Seventeen hours later, 9:00 am, the lithium battery would be down to about 80% capacity.

 

[DMS1]

If you just want to run the fridge, run it from 12volts and you will NOT need an inverter. I would look into the Victron Orion DC to DC converter, they make quality equipment and wont break the bank compared to the redarc.

 

[SOLVEFUNCTION]

If you want the simple method, get something like the wagan tech lithium cube.

Save all the hassle, I would have gone this route.

 

[DMS1]

Suggestions on make/model for:
fridge/freezer (ARB or Dometic I am thinking)
pure sine INverter (Min of 1000 Watt)
lithium batteries (100 AMP/HR??)
control center (show charging and levels)

That will hold up and work in:
Temperatures in subzero to 120 degrees

Important Note, Most Lithium batteries cannot be charged when the temperature falls below 32 Degrees Fahrenheit. A Few manufacturers are now putting heating elements in their batteries to overcome this. If you buy a Lithium battery that does not have a heating element, you could either add one externally or make sure the battery has a low temperature cutoff or the DC to DC Charger or Solar Charger you purchase has the low temp cutoff built in.

 

[Nikita]

Thank you so much for all your suggestions. I am going to study them and see what will work best. This community is awesome!

 

[Nikita]

If you want the simple method, get something like the wagan tech lithium cube.

Save all the hassle, I would have gone this route.

Wow, just looked at the Wagan cube. Seems exactly what I need without all the hassle. Only thing its a preorder situation but maybe I will just use my yeti and ice until this becomes available for shipment. Cant thank you enough for the suggestion.

View attachment 199899View attachment 199900

This is what works for me:

1) Battleborn 100ah - regular (don't need the heated one for the amount of cold we will experience) - $899 from Battleborn (free shipping)
2) Renogy 40A DC to DC Charger - $170 from Amazon - the 20A would have been fine for us.
3) Victron monitor (this was a waste - way overkill for my needs - much cheaper simple monitors available for <$20)
4) 12-way fuse block (again, overkill - a 6-way would have been fine for <$20)
5) A couple of Quick Charge 3.0 Cigarette Lighter Outlet Splitter, 12V USB Charger from Amazon $14 ea
6) A Box to put it all in that I made from scrap aluminum and rivets, some 4AWG and 6AWG cable (could have gone 6 and saved a couple lbs) and some scrap 16g wire, nuts/bolts. Figure another $100 if I bought all the bits plus a cheap toolbox to put it in.
7) 4AWG cable from the primary battery (100A fused, too much but its what I had laying around) to the DC-DC charger - Anderson connectors - that's probably overkill for the length of the run (maybe 15').
8) 6AWG cable from the DC-DC to the battery box - Anderson connectors - I sized this run at 5' to allow for removal from under the bed cover.


Remaining stuff on my list: DC to AC inverter - I don't really need this, so am being lazy about making, but I left room in the box, so.... 10AWG output line for my air compressor (using the clips for now) and conversion of my fridge from cigarette plug to Anderson


Anderson connectors are great, if a bit pricey. Just remember that they are different plug sizes for different cable sizes, and be careful to not mess up the crimping.


Other caveats - I know this is obvious, but remember that polarity matters in DC - hooking up the cigarette plugs wrong may result in it just not working or your device (vacuum cleaner, cough-cough) running in reverse! Fuse everything (at the primary, at the secondary, and on each device), especially stuff that can start a fire or arc weld your bits together!

The box fits (barely) under my retractable bed cover. We run a Dometic dual zone and a couple of BiPAP machines, plus general camp lighting and recharge of battery devices (phones, headlamps, etc.) - we could easily go for 3 nights before firing up the rig but rarely stay in one spot for more than 2 nights.

At this point I've kind of stopped even thinking about it other than to confirm that the DC-DC charger lights up when I start the truck. Here are a couple pics - let me know if you want more.

Thank you for the detailed reply. I like your system

View attachment 199899View attachment 199900

This is what works for me:

1) Battleborn 100ah - regular (don't need the heated one for the amount of cold we will experience) - $899 from Battleborn (free shipping)
2) Renogy 40A DC to DC Charger - $170 from Amazon - the 20A would have been fine for us.
3) Victron monitor (this was a waste - way overkill for my needs - much cheaper simple monitors available for <$20)
4) 12-way fuse block (again, overkill - a 6-way would have been fine for <$20)
5) A couple of Quick Charge 3.0 Cigarette Lighter Outlet Splitter, 12V USB Charger from Amazon $14 ea
6) A Box to put it all in that I made from scrap aluminum and rivets, some 4AWG and 6AWG cable (could have gone 6 and saved a couple lbs) and some scrap 16g wire, nuts/bolts. Figure another $100 if I bought all the bits plus a cheap toolbox to put it in.
7) 4AWG cable from the primary battery (100A fused, too much but its what I had laying around) to the DC-DC charger - Anderson connectors - that's probably overkill for the length of the run (maybe 15').
8) 6AWG cable from the DC-DC to the battery box - Anderson connectors - I sized this run at 5' to allow for removal from under the bed cover.


Remaining stuff on my list: DC to AC inverter - I don't really need this, so am being lazy about making, but I left room in the box, so.... 10AWG output line for my air compressor (using the clips for now) and conversion of my fridge from cigarette plug to Anderson


Anderson connectors are great, if a bit pricey. Just remember that they are different plug sizes for different cable sizes, and be careful to not mess up the crimping.


Other caveats - I know this is obvious, but remember that polarity matters in DC - hooking up the cigarette plugs wrong may result in it just not working or your device (vacuum cleaner, cough-cough) running in reverse! Fuse everything (at the primary, at the secondary, and on each device), especially stuff that can start a fire or arc weld your bits together!

The box fits (barely) under my retractable bed cover. We run a Dometic dual zone and a couple of BiPAP machines, plus general camp lighting and recharge of battery devices (phones, headlamps, etc.) - we could easily go for 3 nights before firing up the rig but rarely stay in one spot for more than 2 nights.

At this point I've kind of stopped even thinking about it other than to confirm that the DC-DC charger lights up when I start the truck. Here are a couple pics - let me know if you want more.

Thank you so much for the detailed reply and pics! Your system looks awesome. I am in a holding pattern because the tonneau cover i ordered came in with bent rails (bak revolver) and they are closed today due to holiday. If I dont get the bed cover worked out I will have to wait till the end of summer not going to chance having all this in an uncovered truck bed. Guess I should have started this build like 2 months ago. Looks like another summer of yeti and ice.

 

[Oliveman]

1st Post: Almost done with solar charger project in back of Colorado hard shell. Over the last few weeks I built a compartment to house and I installed: Cutting Edge Overland Solar Charger with 100AH Lithium, and Redarc BCDC with 3 Anderson in/out plus, DC plug, USB and solar charge input. Purchased 100 W portable and 15" extension, 1500 Watt Sine Wave inverter and AC Lithium quick charge for shore power. This week all the main wiring 4 gauge, in line main 100 amp fuse, cable protectors and crimper / heat shrink arrive for final install. Two week away from 18 day off grid overland trip to Montana begins.

 

[Oliveman]

Important Note, Most Lithium batteries cannot be charged when the temperature falls below 32 Degrees Fahrenheit. A Few manufacturers are now putting heating elements in their batteries to overcome this. If you buy a Lithium battery that does not have a heating element, you could either add one externally or make sure the battery has a low temperature cutoff or the DC to DC Charger or Solar Charger you purchase has the low temp cutoff built in.

View attachment 199899View attachment 199900

This is what works for me:

1) Battleborn 100ah - regular (don't need the heated one for the amount of cold we will experience) - $899 from Battleborn (free shipping)
2) Renogy 40A DC to DC Charger - $170 from Amazon - the 20A would have been fine for us.
3) Victron monitor (this was a waste - way overkill for my needs - much cheaper simple monitors available for <$20)
4) 12-way fuse block (again, overkill - a 6-way would have been fine for <$20)
5) A couple of Quick Charge 3.0 Cigarette Lighter Outlet Splitter, 12V USB Charger from Amazon $14 ea
6) A Box to put it all in that I made from scrap aluminum and rivets, some 4AWG and 6AWG cable (could have gone 6 and saved a couple lbs) and some scrap 16g wire, nuts/bolts. Figure another $100 if I bought all the bits plus a cheap toolbox to put it in.
7) 4AWG cable from the primary battery (100A fused, too much but its what I had laying around) to the DC-DC charger - Anderson connectors - that's probably overkill for the length of the run (maybe 15').
8) 6AWG cable from the DC-DC to the battery box - Anderson connectors - I sized this run at 5' to allow for removal from under the bed cover.


Remaining stuff on my list: DC to AC inverter - I don't really need this, so am being lazy about making, but I left room in the box, so.... 10AWG output line for my air compressor (using the clips for now) and conversion of my fridge from cigarette plug to Anderson


Anderson connectors are great, if a bit pricey. Just remember that they are different plug sizes for different cable sizes, and be careful to not mess up the crimping.


Other caveats - I know this is obvious, but remember that polarity matters in DC - hooking up the cigarette plugs wrong may result in it just not working or your device (vacuum cleaner, cough-cough) running in reverse! Fuse everything (at the primary, at the secondary, and on each device), especially stuff that can start a fire or arc weld your bits together!

The box fits (barely) under my retractable bed cover. We run a Dometic dual zone and a couple of BiPAP machines, plus general camp lighting and recharge of battery devices (phones, headlamps, etc.) - we could easily go for 3 nights before firing up the rig but rarely stay in one spot for more than 2 nights.

At this point I've kind of stopped even thinking about it other than to confirm that the DC-DC charger lights up when I start the truck. Here are a couple pics - let me know if you want more.

Just finishing my install. Question, are all anderson plugs the same? My set up is based on a cutting edge Overland solar charger set up $700. With 100 ah lithium. $500. The overland has 3 Anderson input out puts but the buyer must supply there own Anderson for their particular needs. Are they all compatible. I ordered 3 WARN Anderson kits from Amazon but I need to set this all up this weekend and I need to know what is coming will work. These guys at Cutting Edge.com don't provide user manuals as I think for liability issues. Its like buy it and figure it out

 

[rtexpeditions]

Just finishing my install. Question, are all anderson plugs the same? My set up is based on a cutting edge Overland solar charger set up $700. With 100 ah lithium. $500. The overland has 3 Anderson input out puts but the buyer must supply there own Anderson for their particular needs. Are they all compatible. I ordered 3 WARN Anderson kits from Amazon but I need to set this all up this weekend and I need to know what is coming will work. These guys at Cutting Edge.com don't provide user manuals as I think for liability issues. Its like buy it and figure it out

To answer your question regarding Anderson connectors being the same. No, they are not but if your Overland Solar Charger has the connectors installed you need to stick to that size and color (probably SB50 Gray).
The connectors vary by physical size for maximum Amp rating although 15-45 amp only changes the cable/lug size and not the housing, so they will connect.
The connector housings are also colour-coded and keyed so that they will only connect to the same connector (red to red, yellow to yellow, etc.) except the black and gray SB50 will connect together.
The color code is only advisory.
I set up my batteries, fridge and 12v power points in a semi-removable module (I can unbolt it from the vehicle). I used Black for main-battery alternator in, red for solar in (commonly used) and yellow for auxiliary battery out (a pseudo standard) to connect to my 2 way radios etc. That way the wrong cable cannot be connected.

 

[Oliveman]

Doing same here. Running the cables to the bed this weekend

 

[Oliveman]

Just finishing my install. Question, are all anderson plugs the same? My set up is based on a cutting edge Overland solar charger set up $700. With 100 ah lithium. $500. The overland has 3 Anderson input out puts but the buyer must supply there own Anderson for their particular needs. Are they all compatible. I ordered 3 WARN Anderson kits from Amazon but I need to set this all up this weekend and I need to know what is coming will work. These guys at Cutting Edge.com don't provide user manuals as I think for liability issues. Its like buy it and figure it out

To answer your question regarding Anderson connectors being the same. No, they are not but if your Overland Solar Charger has the connectors installed you need to stick to that size and color (probably SB50 Gray).
The connectors vary by physical size for maximum Amp rating although 15-45 amp only changes the cable/lug size and not the housing, so they will connect.
The connector housings are also colour-coded and keyed so that they will only connect to the same connector (red to red, yellow to yellow, etc.) except the black and grey SB50 will connect together.
The color code is only advisory.
I set up my batteries, fridge and 12v power points in a semi-removable module (I can unbolt it from the vehicle). I used Black for main-battery alternator in, red for solar in (commonly used) and yellow for auxiliary battery out (a pseudo standard) to connect to my 2 way radios etc.

The ones that came on unit were black. I ordered red. I best get online and order black or gray

 

[Oliveman]

Just finishing my install. Question, are all anderson plugs the same? My set up is based on a cutting edge Overland solar charger set up $700. With 100 ah lithium. $500. The overland has 3 Anderson input out puts but the buyer must supply there own Anderson for their particular needs. Are they all compatible. I ordered 3 WARN Anderson kits from Amazon but I need to set this all up this weekend and I need to know what is coming will work. These guys at Cutting Edge.com don't provide user manuals as I think for liability issues. Its like buy it and figure it out

To answer your question regarding Anderson connectors being the same. No, they are not but if your Overland Solar Charger has the connectors installed you need to stick to that size and color (probably SB50 Gray).
The connectors vary by physical size for maximum Amp rating although 15-45 amp only changes the cable/lug size and not the housing, so they will connect.
The connector housings are also colour-coded and keyed so that they will only connect to the same connector (red to red, yellow to yellow, etc.) except the black and grey SB50 will connect together.
The color code is only advisory.
I set up my batteries, fridge and 12v power points in a semi-removable module (I can unbolt it from the vehicle). I used Black for main-battery alternator in, red for solar in (commonly used) and yellow for auxiliary battery out (a pseudo standard) to connect to my 2 way radios etc.

Thank you, you just made my signing up for this forum well worth it

 

[MegaBug]

Anderson plugs are great, especially for high current applications. As others have said, there are different sizes for different loads and the colours are keyed differently to segregate currents. I've run a 6 awg wire from my main battery (through a fuse and relay) to an Anderson connector under the rear bumper. This usually takes a plug from the BCDC on my trailer. I have a also replaced the plug on my air compressor with Anderson so when airing up I can just plug it into the under bumper connection.
Something I wasn't aware of when setting this up was that Anderson also makes weatherproof boots for their connectors. These work extremely well in keeping the gunge out of this exposed location.

 

[ProtonDecay]

View attachment 199899View attachment 199900

This is what works for me:

1) Battleborn 100ah - regular (don't need the heated one for the amount of cold we will experience) - $899 from Battleborn (free shipping)
2) Renogy 40A DC to DC Charger - $170 from Amazon - the 20A would have been fine for us.
3) Victron monitor (this was a waste - way overkill for my needs - much cheaper simple monitors available for <$20)
4) 12-way fuse block (again, overkill - a 6-way would have been fine for <$20)
5) A couple of Quick Charge 3.0 Cigarette Lighter Outlet Splitter, 12V USB Charger from Amazon $14 ea
6) A Box to put it all in that I made from scrap aluminum and rivets, some 4AWG and 6AWG cable (could have gone 6 and saved a couple lbs) and some scrap 16g wire, nuts/bolts. Figure another $100 if I bought all the bits plus a cheap toolbox to put it in.
7) 4AWG cable from the primary battery (100A fused, too much but its what I had laying around) to the DC-DC charger - Anderson connectors - that's probably overkill for the length of the run (maybe 15').
8) 6AWG cable from the DC-DC to the battery box - Anderson connectors - I sized this run at 5' to allow for removal from under the bed cover.


Remaining stuff on my list: DC to AC inverter - I don't really need this, so am being lazy about making, but I left room in the box, so.... 10AWG output line for my air compressor (using the clips for now) and conversion of my fridge from cigarette plug to Anderson


Anderson connectors are great, if a bit pricey. Just remember that they are different plug sizes for different cable sizes, and be careful to not mess up the crimping.


Other caveats - I know this is obvious, but remember that polarity matters in DC - hooking up the cigarette plugs wrong may result in it just not working or your device (vacuum cleaner, cough-cough) running in reverse! Fuse everything (at the primary, at the secondary, and on each device), especially stuff that can start a fire or arc weld your bits together!

The box fits (barely) under my retractable bed cover. We run a Dometic dual zone and a couple of BiPAP machines, plus general camp lighting and recharge of battery devices (phones, headlamps, etc.) - we could easily go for 3 nights before firing up the rig but rarely stay in one spot for more than 2 nights.

At this point I've kind of stopped even thinking about it other than to confirm that the DC-DC charger lights up when I start the truck. Here are a couple pics - let me know if you want more.

I should note that the Renogy unit failed shortly after I posted this and I replaced with a 40A Redarc unit. Rock solid ever since and we beat it pretty good.