Morocco 2015. Round trip.

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Steve

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I'm glad to read that you've made it home safe and sound, Robert. I'm eager to hear your stories and see the photos.

Welcome back,
Steve
 

deeker

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Likewise, I look forward to a more thorough report and of course, pictures to go along with it all.

Glad you are home safe and sound.
 

Robert OB 33/48

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Morocco 2015-11-10

Day one. Thursday the 8th of October.

We left the house after we had our last dinner at home for the following four weeks. As planned we left and headed towards Paris were we would meet our friends Torsten and Helga. This was not my plan, my plan was to meet them in Algeciras, but hey, plans change.

So after a several hours drive we met just under Paris. They were already there and slept. So we had to wake them. After we greeted eachother and set our alramclock at the same time we went to sleep.

Day two.

Getting up and after a coffee, and water for me, some bread, we headed south. I was drivng in front, as I am the slowest and had the trailer as well. So, down to Spain first. We managed to get into Spain on the Friday night and found a spot on a parking lot in Vitoria-Gazteiz. There we slept again. Until now we just drove and drove, just highway and nothing special came around. We wanted to be in Morocco as fast as possible.


Day three.

Again, highway, how boring. Unfortunally my car made it less boring by telling us that during a drivers change the water pump was broken. So, we had to stop and replace that piece. Luckely we had one spare with us, and just a very naughty bolt kept us from a very good record of replacing a water pump. 3,5 hours later we were on our way again. As we had lost so much time, we wouldn’t make it in time to go across to Africa the next day, so we decide to have a night at a campsite, have a good dinner, good sleep and breakfast. Then we could drive the Sunday towards Algericas and buy tickets and get on the ferry early on the Monday. Unfortunally the brand new starter motor made a hiccup during this repair stop, and the car wouldn’t start. Luckely we are very skilled and could push it very easely. That however would be a trick we would be able to perfect during this holiday to total perfection.


Day four.

The Sunday, an easy drive and again mainly very boring highway. But we got there reasonable on time, so we could buy our tickets, which proved to be much cheaper as thought and they came with all the custom documents we needed. That was a relief and a good thing. Also they give us the advice to park in the neighbourhood on a parking lot, were more campers and 4x4 cars would stay for the night. We settled for the night, had a Mac dinner and a good laugh, drink and talk until we thought it was time to go to sleep. Sleep was something that came slow, as the excitement of going across the street of Gibraltar to Africa was on the next day.
 
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Robert OB 33/48

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Day five. And day one in Morocco.

It is time to cross and experience the differences between Europe and Africa. First we headed towards the ferry. The ticket agent told us, drive to the ferry, don’t stop when people try to stop you at the port, just drive until you reach the barrier that is in front of the ferry. And that was a good advice. Several times they, strange people who wanted to sell us their tickets, custom papers and services, tried to stop us, but we were stubborn and drove on. At last we stopped at te barrier and the waiting began until we were allowed to go on board.

Going on board was fun as we had to drive backwards on the ferry. And with my little trailer, which you cant see in the mirrors, is that a slight problem. But that was solved quiet simple by the crew. We de-coupled it, they pushed it on the ferry and coupled it back on the car. Then we had a good suprise, Skai our dog was allowed on deck, so for the first time in his life he was experiencing a “channel” crossing on deck and not in the car in the belly of the ship. And I think he loved it much.


 
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Robert OB 33/48

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After our crossing of around one and a half hour, we came in Ceuta, the Spanish town in Africa. We got of the ferry and drove to the border. And then, for the first time in a very very long time, we found ourselves in the hustle of crossing a real border on the African continent. And this is, by far, the easiest one they say. It took us around two hours to get all things done. The car, the dog, we all had to be checked, rechecked and double checked. Luckily all the forms were ok and therefor everything went smooth. The only thing what you shouldn’t do is trying to make pictures of the border and the crossing. They don’t like it. As our friend Helga noticed. She got warned by a police officer. After crossing the border, they, Torsten and Helga, needed a insurance for Morocco. As their standard insurance doesn’t cover Morocco. We had no problem as our insurance does cover Morocco.

While we were waiting we experienced for the first time, and for the whole stay in Morocco, the worst encounter with kids who begged for food, clothes, money and smokes. And giving one something, (food) brought them all to our van. Luckily a soldier did send them away. But they went to the car of our friends and tried to drink their water. It is sad to see how poor these kids are. Their total existence is focussed on getting the basics in life, food, clothing, and money for a shelter in the night. And you cant give them things, because they will take everything, not because the are bad, or trying to steal, but just because they want to survive. This was a very shocking experience right at the start of our trip

After getting everything arranged with the insurance we headed to the first gas station to fill up our tank. Which we left pretty empty, because the petrol is way cheaper in Morocco as in Europe.

There we had again the fun to push the car to get it started. But the gas station was build on a slope, so we didn’t had to push very hard.

Then it was time to get to our first night camp on the campsite in Chefchouen. Around a 100 km away and it was a very nice road to travel. And of course we had our first encounter with Moroccan roads, mountain roads and slopes. And the worst part (very steep) was just in Chefchouen on the way to the campsite. But we had no problems getting there and the first hrdle was done. Did we know how big and steep the other hurdles would be.

The campsite was good in the eyes of the Moroccan people, we however needed to leave our European eyes at home and see everything through the eyes of the Moroccan people. Here I would like to explain a few things. IF you go across a border, not just a border, but into a different continent. You need to leave at home all your trusted standards and comfort zones. Because if you don’t, you will get in trouble with yourself. Being in Africa means, the way of life, the standard of life, and the culture is way different to the Europe an standard and way of life. First of all, you are in an African country. Secondly, you are in a Islamic country, how tolerant it is, it is still an Islamic country. Think of visiting some of the very religious people like the Amish in the USA. It is way different. Not better or worse, just different. Dont judge the people by your standards, don’t judge at all. And you will find lots of nice people on your way. I went to Morocco open minded, and with the thought, whatever you give is what you will receive. And it was true. We gave people our trust and friendliness, respect and kindness and found lots and lots of very nice, helpful people on our road.

However, not everybody who visits the African continent is ready for this. Not everyone goes there and accept the facts written above. And they experience a different way of having a journey there. Fear and caution are the things they need to conquer.

That evening we noticed something strange with our friends. They were the people who weren’t ready for Morocco, how badly, we would find out soon enough. And if you are in a different country, which is known for its food, you just don’t go on the first night and eat canned food. We wanted to go out and find places to eat. But no, we stayed on the campsite and ate pasta with lots of garlic mayonnaise and such things. OK, it was good, but hey, no Moroccan Food. However, I wanted to have meat, and wanted to grill some meat as well, so Frederique, Torsten and Helga did had a walk down into town. To get some water (bottled), meat for me, bread and other groceries. So, the such as I told was grilled beef and I ate Moroccan bread and drank my first Moroccan coke zero. Ok, I also did ate the pasta, as it was good, like I already said.

At last our first day in Morocco came to an end, and we had to go to sleep. We slept perfectly, they still had one eye open.



Day two ( I know it is day six as well, but now I will count the days we were in Morocco)

Goodmorning Morocco. What a good night sleep we had. And we had the plan of going into town to visit the medina and get some other stuff. So after a nice relaxing morning with a long an rich breakfast, we went down. Down is the correct word, as the campsite is located on the mountain side and the town is located in the valley. Soe we walked the “stairs” down and came in the Medina. There we found out the pro’s and contra’s of having a dog with us. The best pro is, you will have all the space you like to have. No one will come close to you. At least if you have Skai, our dog, with you. The contra is kids are afraid for him and he reacts on that by barking. And believe me, whole Chefchouen did knoiw Skai was in twon. Luckily he changed much during this holiday and he get easy going in the towns we visited.








The store across the shop of the leather craft man was jewelery and there is a nice story at the end with that.


After some walks we found a nice restaurant to get some lunch and here I ate some delicious sandwiches with beef and chicken. And Frederique did ate Tajin again. Which would be one of the main dishes for her. After lunch we walked again for some time and I found a leather craftman which was willing to make a new harnas for Skai. Just the way I liked it. So we mad measurements and decide how it needed to look and agreed a price. It would be ready by evening. Yes, you read it well, ready at the end of the day. So, after we went back up to the campsite, I drove back down after our dinner to the Medina by taxi and went to the Craft man and picked up the harnas. It was superb. Simple but just what I wanted. I payed and was a happy man.

And during my walks through the medina on my own, in the evening, i saw something different from daytime. As the women were more discrete with the choice of clothing and wearing scarves a lot, during the evening I did see more modern and ........ kind of clothing worn by the women. It was a significant fact.

Coming back to the campsite we “dressed” up Skai and he looked good with it. Then slowly it was time to enjoy the lights of the town in the valley and the stars above. It was good to be in Morocco. I for one thing loved it already very much.

Our trip was really on its way, and there is way more to tell. More pictures to show, and I cant even imagine how much video footage we have. That will come in time as well.
For now, I will write more soon.
 
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Robert OB 33/48

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Day three.

After a lazy breakfast and just breaking up camp easy and lazy, we headed out for Fez. One of the Kings Cities in Morocco. And we agreed that we would visit the second biggest dam in Africa. At least, that is what they claim. I didn’t measure it, because I wasn’t allowed to, or take pictures or come near, but it is big.





The road there was fairly good, even for European standards, so, I was a bit disappointed. (which would be corrected very soon) but we had some dirt tracks and some gorgeous views. That was something we all liked.



As we arrived at the dam and we came close, there was a military post and they told us very polite that coming closer of taking pictures was forbidden. So, we drove on, and a mile away we still could make our pictures. It just looks much smaller on them.

We drove through little villages, really little villages and mountains. As we are in the Atlas mountains, it isn’t a surprise. When we reached the City of Fez, a strange smell came towards us and I was wondering what that smell was. Just turning a bend I knew it, the smell was extreme and all the hides of sheep, cows and such were hanging next to the road. The wool of sheep lies there like mountains, and people lived and work in there. It was awfull but very interesting.

It just happened we took that road straight through the heart of the area where the animals are killed, skinned and the hides are prepped for further production in the city.

Fez is the center of leather in Morocco. Well, we did find the right place.

We drove around Fez, well some parts towards the campsite Diamant Vert. A combination between camping an Bungalow park. Very nice and it was ok for us.

We set up camp for two nights again, and we found out, the restaurant had Wi-fi. So I took the opportunity to find some information about the following days of travel. In the meantime a guide had visit our camp and Frederique, Helga and Torsten would go the next day with him into Fez and visit the medina and such. I would stay at camp with Skai (our dog) and would check the car.

That evening we enjoyed a nice and warm Fez, with good food and talks. As the trip was long that day we went to bed fairly early.
 

Robert OB 33/48

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Day four.

When we got up that day, we would split up for the day, Torsten, Helga and Frederique went with Wafi, the guide to Fez and I stayed at camp just to take care of the car. I checked, oil, water, brakes, tyres and such and found everything in good order. I cleaned up the van, took the bedding out and let the sleeping bags and pillows have a good dry in the sun and some fresh air.

In the meantime they went into the medina to the place where the hides were painted, and produced to raw materials and from there into the leather shops where craft man would turn then into shoes, bags and more. They visit a carpetstore where they could see how delicate these oriental carpets are and that they still are made on very primitive weaving looms. It was very impressive.













A pottery was visited and it was amazing how people could make beautiful things with just their hands. At last they visited a Pharmacy and got explained how Moroccan cure their sick with mostly herbs and such. They found the medina a amazing place to be, with very narrow streets and so much to see. Too much impressions made them really tired.

After they came home, some friends we know from Holland came to visit us. They are Moroccan people and they live in the Netherlands. They had their holiday with family and they visited us just for fun. They brought fur apples, Dades, Oranges and such. Just as a little gift. So we had enough fruit for the rest of the holiday. We talk with hand and feet, in dutch, French and English with them and the family they brought along. Luckily we had some gifts for them with us. An still we felt ashamed about the quantity of gifts they brought.




At last we went to bed and had pleasant dreams about the next day were we would go further south and would go and find our first pistes. Doomsday came closer and closer.
 
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Robert OB 33/48

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Day five.

Early and bright the day is, and we are going from Fes further south. This time not by the main roads, but more and more by the so called pistes. Pistes are Gravel or unpaved roads in more or less road form. So we are on our way and the roads are still nice, but now and then we find some Pistes on our way. First thing I did find was something on left which made me wonder what it is. It looks like a river going into a canyon, and after some talk over the radio we are going left and into the land beside the road. We drive all the way up to the edge, at least the edge we thought there is. But no, it wasn’t an edge as we thought, it was a kind of canyon and we could drive down. Torsten desides to drive a bit further down, which is good, as I cant turn easily with the trailer. But he comes back and says, nothing real to see. Just a village. Ok, so, I look at our map and check he terrain and deside to drive in a different angle back to the main road. This is fun, it is a real dirt track we are doing and at a sudden point we are facing a small kind of canyon. So, we stop and think about how we can cross it.




And here I have to confess a thing. Iam a very fast thinker and therefore I see mostly the quickest way to go across. Torsten thinks slower and looks more, so he sees the smoother way to come across. I think I need to learn that way too. (wish I had done that a bit sooner)

But we come to the other side with no harm done and continue our way. At a certain point we find the main road again and are heading further south towards Midelt. As we are not going all the way to Midelt we turned on the real big (which is a point of view) higher ranked way fairly soon of back to the lowest ranked roads we can find. And we are driving really into the inner country. Traveling through little villages, or just a group of houses. We drive more and more dirt roads and we have some minor river crossings and one which is bigger. After a while, we found a spot to camp. It would be our first wild campsite this journey and little did we know, it was our last as well.

After we set up camp, there was a little tension, as Torsten had found a nice campsite up the hill, but unfortunally I couldn’t make it up there. And I now thinking, it was the first thing in a row of events that ruined my clutch. So, I was pissed that he didn’t considered my lack of power and the trailer, and he thought I just couldn’t drive and do things stupid. Maybe we both were wrong. I have no clue. And we never know. As we set up camp he complained about all kind of things, about visibility, about the roads, he didn’t want to raise his roof, and he just wanted to be able to drive away as fast as possible in case of danger. And there I had a different idea. It was a great spot, it was safe. Lots of people came by, waving and having fun. They know are there, so, in case of somthing goes wrong, we know they will come by again and can help. Torsten and Helga feared the people, they think all are rapers, thieves and robbers. I think they are all nice people, working hard and are very friendly.

This differences in thoughts made the evening a bit strange. And as we went to bed, I slept like a baby.
 

Robert OB 33/48

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Day six Part one

Waking up I felt good, we had a good night sleep, at least I had. Frederique slept a bit less, but still well. But Torsten and Helga didn’t sleap well at all. They had been listening to all the noises and were very tired. And so they were a bit pissed of to me for picking that spot.

As during setting up breakfast those workers came back and waved and had great fun during their trip to work, I waved back and ha a laugh. Then it happened. The last car stopped and called Torsten, They had a big pile of French bread and offered one to Torsten. He accepted it and wanted to pay for it. But no, they didn’t want to have money, it was a gift. It was the way they are, sharing little they have with total strangers.

Torsten stood there as the drove on, and his face showed how ashamed he was about not trusting these kinde and generous people, thinking bad about them and had judged them without any reason. It had to be a sign about the things to come. I didn’t see it coming, because I trust people. Maybe too much.

Part two will follow soon.
 

Robert OB 33/48

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Well, after our breakfast we hit the road again and that was more and more a challenge. The road was from dirt road to bad tarmac road, to bad dirt road to ..... road gone. And Road gone was really road gone.



It turned out, we heard later, that the road was tumbled into the river bedding two years ago due an earthquake or such. Anyway, no way to go except into the river bedding. We thought it would be a few hundered metres, but it turned out, it was around twenty kilometres. And here we found temporary nemesis. As we crossed some water, went over lots of rocks, we found more and more trouble going forward.As the starter motor stopped working, on the wrong moment, we had to be towed. Not because we couldn’t manage, but just because the car didn’t want to start. So that was the first time a rope was connected to my car.





The second time, I had made a mistake and drove through a water hole and got stuck. Second rope thing. Then we drove and drove and unfortunally, the third time I got stuck was the final one. With a snap, grind and such noices the clutch went. And from there on, we got towed for the next 90 kilometres till Imilchil. The Unimog towed us and we were bound just to follow. We went up to 2200 metres and down again, up and down again. The brakes were blistering hot on the way down, and I feared at some points we would drive into the Unimog as we thought the brakes were gone.


At last, just before dark, we arrived and we could get out. Parked the car and went for dinner. Then we went to bed, dead tired. Adventure they say, Adventure I say now, sound and safe at home.


Day seven.

The next day our saviours went on their trip and so did our friends Torsten and Helga. So, we stood there, and were all alone. That felt really stupid.





But, we had called in the insurance, they were working on it, we had Mamma Malika, she, a Morroccan woman, was the angel we needed at that moment. She provide us with food, drinks, help phonecalls and without her, we would have had more trouble.

Druing the day we heard that the next day a truck would come to pick us up. And he would bring us to Beni Mellal. So, now it was just waiting and enjoying the view we had. We used the day to relax, rest and talk to Mammy Malika. Her story I will write in a different part.

We got food and shelter by her and she didn’t want money for it. We couldn’t accept that, but it was a struggle to accept her the money. We won.

But most of all. We won a dear person in Morocco. A very dear person.
 

Robert OB 33/48

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Here the first video. I start with the worst part of the journey. When I just f$%%^^d up.
more to come soon.
 
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