Lifting a WJ is certainly an adventure. Working mine to a 3" lift a little at a time, just about to finish it off with EMO HD springs for a 3 inch lift. Just a couple notes after reading the thread-
With a budget boost I am running 4.6 deg castor with no death wobble and a happy front pinion angle.
The rear upper spacer for the upper control arm (wishbone) is to keep the ball joint from maxing out on full droop. I highly recommend it. I have been tearing through ball joints and have a core 4x4 wishbone with johnny joint ready to put in. Did it for the adjustability, but all I really need is the spacer.
An adjustable track bar is a must to recenter the front axle. Most track bars out there do not have the right bushings. I ran a JKS but the polyurethane bushings wore extremely fast and always had play, even with a fresh set of hard bushings and 9/16 inch hardware upgrade. The track bar is the most common suspect for death wobble.
Switched to a trail forged adjustable track bar. Johnny Joint on one side and their "better bushing" on the other, with 9/16 hardware. No play, and no signs of wear yet. Highly recommend.
Had no death wobble for years, it was loosie goosie and flexed like crazy, with everything wore out. I finally had an original dried out factory bushing disintegrate so I switched from stock control arms to core 4x4 adjustable arms. Then the fun began. Had to replace all rod ends, replace track bar, and play with caster angle. DW showed up once more after all that, and tracked it down to a blown right front shock that had trouble rebounding. Since then I have had a few momentary wheel shakes like it wanted to death wobble when I have had the front suspension unload and then suddenly load on landing (think driving over whoopdy doos a little too fast). There is some interesting geometry that shows up when you get the track bar arcing below level and only arcing to the negative. So I am flirting with needing to add a drop pitman arm and track bar drop bracket.
FYI I chose 3 inch lift to keep as many stock parts as I could, not so much to stay short arm, I almost went 3 inch long arm. But- if I break out in the wild I can put in a junkyard or parts store stock suspension arm or drive line to make it home. The IRO 4" long arm is the flex king, but at that point stock drivelines get iffy and so on. Budget boost, 3", 3 1/2 inch, 4 inch- doesn't make a difference for tire size. Limited to about a 245/75-16 or 265/70-16 (both about 30.6 inches) unless you start cutting sheetmetal or penalize your flex with way to much bumpstop extension.
That said, I am going with 265/75-16 (31.7 inches) here shortly on Wrangler 16 inch steelies and will set the axle positions for the best stuffed centering I can with 2 1/2 inch bumpstop extensions in the front and 2" in the back. Then it is sawzall and sledge hammer time as required. (bumper trim, fog light removal, washer bottle relocate already done).
WJ's are certainly an adventure in patience.
@MrWilsonWJ, You could sell the dimensioned plans for the rear seat delete and save us all some time trying to copy it! very nice.
