I thought I would share my DIY Maxtrax mounting solution. If you have an angle grinder, this will cost you ~$7 in hardware (not including a padlock). I'm sure this will work with other bed rail systems, but the dimensions might not be the same for the hardware.
Hardware:
(2) 5/8" Galvanized carriage bolts
(4) Galvanized nuts
(4) Fender washers
Instructions:
The bed rail slot is 1" tall, so you need to grind down some of the bolt heads on both sides for it to slide in. Make it line up with the square part of the stud so it will slide in the rail system correctly.
Next, figure out how long you want the stud to extend. I left room for an additional set if I ever get them. Make sure to account for the nut, and leave about 3/4" to drill a hole for a padlock. Thread a nut on, then cut the stud to length. Also, grind the last 3/4" or so of the stud flat so you can drill a hole. Do both sides unless you want to break some drill bits like me (the bit will catch the threads when it comes out and snap smaller bits). Use a punch to prevent the bit from walking when you start drilling. When you are done grinding, unthread the nut to remove any burs left from grinding.
The bolts can now go into the bed rail. I used the Maxtrax to eyeball where to tighten them down. I used one washer then a nut for each.
Now you need to grind down the last two washers so they fit the contour of the Maxtrax. I just eyeballed it until it fit.
Now put it all together.
Notes:
- I couldn't find any wing nuts that large, but I don't think they would work due to where the hole is at on the Maxtrax. I think the wings would hit the contours and not tighten down.
- The 5/8" carriage bolt was too large to fit through the holes in my Hi-Lift, but smaller sizes work. The square part of the stud on the smaller sizes doesn't fit as nicely. You could probably make this work for a Hi-Lift by grinding both sides down like I did for the padlock, because I was able to slide that part of these bolts through the holes in mine.
- I haven't heard any rattling, and I don't expect any due to the rigidity of the Maxtrax. If it becomes an issue, I might put some foam on the bed below.
Hardware:
(2) 5/8" Galvanized carriage bolts
(4) Galvanized nuts
(4) Fender washers
Instructions:
The bed rail slot is 1" tall, so you need to grind down some of the bolt heads on both sides for it to slide in. Make it line up with the square part of the stud so it will slide in the rail system correctly.
Next, figure out how long you want the stud to extend. I left room for an additional set if I ever get them. Make sure to account for the nut, and leave about 3/4" to drill a hole for a padlock. Thread a nut on, then cut the stud to length. Also, grind the last 3/4" or so of the stud flat so you can drill a hole. Do both sides unless you want to break some drill bits like me (the bit will catch the threads when it comes out and snap smaller bits). Use a punch to prevent the bit from walking when you start drilling. When you are done grinding, unthread the nut to remove any burs left from grinding.
The bolts can now go into the bed rail. I used the Maxtrax to eyeball where to tighten them down. I used one washer then a nut for each.
Now you need to grind down the last two washers so they fit the contour of the Maxtrax. I just eyeballed it until it fit.
Now put it all together.
Notes:
- I couldn't find any wing nuts that large, but I don't think they would work due to where the hole is at on the Maxtrax. I think the wings would hit the contours and not tighten down.
- The 5/8" carriage bolt was too large to fit through the holes in my Hi-Lift, but smaller sizes work. The square part of the stud on the smaller sizes doesn't fit as nicely. You could probably make this work for a Hi-Lift by grinding both sides down like I did for the padlock, because I was able to slide that part of these bolts through the holes in mine.
- I haven't heard any rattling, and I don't expect any due to the rigidity of the Maxtrax. If it becomes an issue, I might put some foam on the bed below.
