Lug Extenders for Breaker

[Scarpa]

Hey all

Does anyone know where I can find these specific or similar Lug Extenders for the terminals to use for a breaker, identical to what's being done in this video?

DIY Fuse Relay Panel - Protect Your Rig!

Thanks in advance.

Cy

 

[M Rose]

Those are just battery cable eyelets. I wouldn’t get them as long as @Michael used because the longer they are the more of a chance something can short it out and the more heatshrink is needed to waterproof the terminal.

 

[Michael]

Those are just battery cable eyelets. I wouldn’t get them as long as @Michael used because the longer they are the more of a chance something can short it out and the more heatshrink is needed to waterproof the terminal.

And those ended up being bad products.

 

[M Rose]

And those ended up being bad products.

They didn’t look they they were that robust on the video. Did you end up going to a copper crimp/solder lug?

 

[Scarpa]

Right on, what would be a good under-the-hood solution for connecting up to the terminals on the breaker then? In theory, could I just put the breaker inside my custom fuse/relay box I'm making, or is that a bad idea with too much heat, etc?

I have until 7/25 to do my build, I have a '22 Outback Wilderness that I'm dropping ditch lights, a light bar, and a 50 Watt GMRS radio on, and I was going to power all those through a custom fuse/relay box ( Thanks @Michael for the video on how to do this ), and then I'm thinking instead of physical switches I might create a microcontroller with Bluetooth shield/module to a small touch screen or cell phone.

 

[M Rose]

Right on, what would be a good under-the-hood solution for connecting up to the terminals on the breaker then? In theory, could I just put the breaker inside my custom fuse/relay box I'm making, or is that a bad idea with too much heat, etc?

I have until 7/25 to do my build, I have a '22 Outback Wilderness that I'm dropping ditch lights, a light bar, and a 50 Watt GMRS radio on, and I was going to power all those through a custom fuse/relay box ( Thanks @Michael for the video on how to do this ), and then I'm thinking instead of physical switches I might create a microcontroller with Bluetooth shield/module to a small touch screen or cell phone.

I don’t know what your custom power distribution box looks like, or how it vents…. But a CIrcuit Breaker should not get hot (if it does you have too many accessories running through it).
As for what lugs to get… a good quality crimp and solder battery lug is the only way to go… again we don’t have enough information to point you in the right direction.
All of my auxiliary power is overkill. To start with I convert my starting battery to a 1000 CCA Marine AGM Deep cycle battery, run 00 gauge welding leads for my main battery cables with crimp and solder welding terminal 00-3/8” lugs for the battery side and what ever size stud determines the other terminal connector. For heat shrink I get the thickest heat shrink with waterproof that I can find (usually from the same welding supply store I bought the cables and lugs from). I don’t order any of my electrical parts off of the internet (accept for bulk relays and fuses) because WHEN something fails I want to be able to walk into any hardware or automotive parts store and get a replacement. Ordering specialty parts on the internet means that I may not find a replacement for trail repair.

Reputable brands for terminals- Napa Belden is my number 1 fallowed by Lincoln/Miller as a close second… their isn’t a third unless you count Anderson Power Poles. Which is what I have converted all my accessories such as Fridge, Comms, and Lights to.

 

[Scarpa]

I don’t know what your custom power distribution box looks like, or how it vents…. But a CIrcuit Breaker should not get hot (if it does you have too many accessories running through it).
As for what lugs to get… a good quality crimp and solder battery lug is the only way to go… again we don’t have enough information to point you in the right direction.
All of my auxiliary power is overkill. To start with I convert my starting battery to a 1000 CCA Marine AGM Deep cycle battery, run 00 gauge welding leads for my main battery cables with crimp and solder welding terminal 00-3/8” lugs for the battery side and what ever size stud determines the other terminal connector. For heat shrink I get the thickest heat shrink with waterproof that I can find (usually from the same welding supply store I bought the cables and lugs from). I don’t order any of my electrical parts off of the internet (accept for bulk relays and fuses) because WHEN something fails I want to be able to walk into any hardware or automotive parts store and get a replacement. Ordering specialty parts on the internet means that I may not find a replacement for trail repair.

Reputable brands for terminals- Napa Belden is my number 1 fallowed by Lincoln/Miller as a close second… their isn’t a third unless you count Anderson Power Poles. Which is what I have converted all my accessories such as Fridge, Comms, and Lights to.

I just have a large plastic box I'm putting relays and fuse box and bus in, and I am wanting to connect a cable from the battery to a breaker 100 amp, from that to the fuse panel,. I guess what Im asking is does it make sense to have a short 4AWG wire from the breaker to a few inches away to the fuse panel or not. Or perhaps it doesn't matter. That would tell me enough to decide If I need to find somewhere else to mount the circuit breaker

 

[M Rose]

I don’t know what your power needs are going to be, so I safely can’t answer your question… 4 gauge is absolutely the smallest gauge I would even consider running to the power box… my shortest run is 3” from my batter to my starter solenoid… factory used single ott battery cable, I upgraded to 00 welding cable… and personally I don’t run anything under 00 from my batter to my power distribution center because I don’t know what I may add later down the road.
Your circuit breaker needs to be the week point… what happens if you directly short the 4 gauge cable? Does the wire get warm before the breaker trips? How about adding a loaf 75% capacity of the breaker… does the 4 gauge cable get hot?

 

[Boort]

Does anyone know where I can find these specific or similar Lug Extenders for the terminals to use for a breaker, identical to what's being done in this video?
DIY Fuse Relay Panel - Protect Your Rig!

@Scarpa

Based on the comments It sounds like you are looking to connect the battery to your circuit breaker then to your Aux box. If you can't find the parts you need I suggest calling the team at Power Trays. (303) 647-4848 They can either sell you custom made cables or possibly point you in the direction to get the components that you need. Here is the link to the custom cables:

Custom Length Battery Cables

All battery cables are made in house with high quality, USA Made welding cable. Fine strand welding cable is superior to typical automotive battery cable due to its high amperage capacity and flexibility. Each cable comes wrapped in a braided expandable sleeving to protect from abrasions...

www.powertrays.com

They have been helpful when I stopped by their shop to discuss my plans for my rig. And I'll probably be going with one of their dual battery setups when I get to that point in my build.

Regards,
Boort

 

[Scarpa]

@Scarpa

Based on the comments It sounds like you are looking to connect the battery to your circuit breaker then to your Aux box. If you can't find the parts you need I suggest calling the team at Power Trays. (303) 647-4848 They can either sell you custom made cables or possibly point you in the direction to get the components that you need. Here is the link to the custom cables:

Custom Length Battery Cables

All battery cables are made in house with high quality, USA Made welding cable. Fine strand welding cable is superior to typical automotive battery cable due to its high amperage capacity and flexibility. Each cable comes wrapped in a braided expandable sleeving to protect from abrasions...

www.powertrays.com

They have been helpful when I stopped by their shop to discuss my plans for my rig. And I'll probably be going with one of their dual battery setups when I get to that point in my build.

Regards,
Boort

Thank you much, and yes your assumption is correct, I'm wanting to go from the car's battery to the 100 amp breaker to the aux box (fuse/relays). Im wiring Rigid ditch lights and a 50 watt GMRS radio to the aux box.

 

[M Rose]

Thank you much, and yes your assumption is correct, I'm wanting to go from the car's battery to the 100 amp breaker to the aux box (fuse/relays). Im wiring Rigid ditch lights and a 50 watt GMRS radio to the aux box.

GMRS needs to go straight to the battery…
Or to the auxiliary fuse box… your rigid lights don’t play well with radios…

 

[Scarpa]

GMRS needs to go straight to the battery…
Or to the auxiliary fuse box… your rigid lights don’t play well with radios…

So basically just run it to the battery straight up with an inline fuse? Just I should keep it off the same aux fuse box I'm building now for accessories because the lights and radio dont mix well you are saying? I was hoping to build the exact same aux box from this video

 

[Scarpa]

If it helps for context on what Im trying to wire...

Midland GMRS Radio
Rigid D series SS Pro Driving Ditch Lights

 

[M Rose]

So basically just run it to the battery straight up with an inline fuse? Just I should keep it off the same aux fuse box I'm building now for accessories because the lights and radio dont mix well you are saying? I was hoping to build the exact same aux box from this video

Communication gear always runs fused straight to the battery… the battery acts as an RF Filter. And yes LED lights are RF Generators.

 

[Scarpa]

Communication gear always runs fused straight to the battery… the battery acts as an RF Filter. And yes LED lights are RF Generators.

Should I not be worried about a parasitic draw from the radio when the engine is off?

 

[Boort]

Should I not be worried about a parasitic draw from the radio when the engine is off?

If you are worried about that draw you could put a relay inline that is triggered by the ignition switch. However your car would need to be running or in ACC mode to use the Radio. Looking at the power cord on the Midland site I see only 2 hookups so you may want to ask their tech support if you need to keep it always powered to save your stored memory and settings. (I hope not but best to ask.)

Boort

 

[M Rose]

Should I not be worried about a parasitic draw from the radio when the engine is off?

It took me a week for drain my battery down completely with the radio accidentally left on. If you make sure to turn it off, there is no draw.

 

[Scarpa]

Good to hear, thanks for the help. Now just a matter of finding a spot on this batterie's positive terminal to drop a cable to. Subaru already has a mess with 5 million things attached and a sensor for the alternator charging on the negative terminal to consider. Fun times...

 

[M Rose]

Good to hear, thanks for the help. Now just a matter of finding a spot on this batterie's positive terminal to drop a cable to. Subaru already has a mess with 5 million things attached and a sensor for the alternator charging on the negative terminal to consider. Fun times...

Ground to the frame, not the battery.
Add your positive accessory leads to the bolt I have circled in the picture below.

 

[Scarpa]

Yeah, grounding to the frame is the plan, what Subaru told me was that even if I do that, the smart charging for the alternator, the load will still get accounted for. Just in case though, I bought a wireless monitoring device for the battery; last thing I want to do is hit the road for 3 weeks here soon and be in the middle of nowhere with a dead battery.