Lift

[Jeepmedic46]

Right now I have a 4.5” rough country Short arm lift on my 2000 Jeep Cherokee. Should I think about changing it to a long arm set up. I’m hoping to do a trip with the Vermont Overland and I think I need to run a bigger tire. Right now I have 32” tires on the Jeep. How is the Rough Country lift? Is it a good lift. It came with the Jeep.

 

[joshjunior]

It's not terrible. They've come a long way from what they used to be. Here's the thing.. The higher you go on lift the more top heavy you become. Generally you wanna run the lowest amount of lift possible with the largest tire possible to keep a low cog. The long arm kit will help with travel etc. I'd wheel it like it is and adjust as needed. You should be able to tuck a 33. If it rubs at full stuff just add some bump stop.

 

[Jeepmedic46]

It's not terrible. They've come a long way from what they used to be. Here's the thing.. The higher you go on lift the more top heavy you become. Generally you wanna run the lowest amount of lift possible with the largest tire possible to keep a low cog. The long arm kit will help with travel etc. I'd wheel it like it is and adjust as needed. You should be able to tuck a 33. If it rubs at full stuff just add some bump stop.

Thank you, I don’t want the truck to become to tall. It does look like it will take a 33 tire now. On the Vermont Overland video it looks like 32s are to small. Even with the 32 should I change gears in my axles?

 

[Jeep backroads]

Get a few trips done before you make a bunch of changes. The Jeep Cherokee is really capable in stock form one of the best overlanding vehicles ever.

 

[Jeepmedic46]

That’s what I’ve heard and seen on you tube. Trying to find a overlanding group near me. I live on the NH line of Massachusetts.

 

[Jeepmedic46]

Well there a lot of us in your area, theres also a lot of creppy Ah(*&s in your area, so choose wisely.

I will thank you,

 

[Anak]

How is the Rough Country lift?

Well, is it working for you on pavement? Any issues at freeway speeds? Any harshness with speed bumps, driveways or pot holes? Your experience driving it will tell you more than we can tell you.

From my perspective the biggest issues with lifts have to do with their manners on pavement more than how they behave off road. A harsh ride or death wobble generally affects my quality of life more than does a percentage improvement in articulation.

Beyond the original design of the lift you also need to consider the condition of the joints. If this lift was just installed then it should all be in good condition, but if it has several tens of thousands of miles on it you need to be thinking about the bushings/rod ends/heim joints/etc.

Also note that with an XJ the track bar is probably the single most important (or at least prone to problem causing) component in your front suspension. If the previous owner has not already upgraded it to a double-shear mount then that should be your highest priority (yes, before bigger tires). And the next thing after that is the steering box spacer. Again, if the previous owner has not gotten rid of the weak factory spacer then you need to look into taking care of that. I think it is C-Rok who makes one of the better upgraded spacers/reinforcement plates that can be installed without welding. Core 4x4, SFR and Clayton all offer good options for track bar mounts. I think SFR may also have a steering box reinforcement plate.

 

[Smileyshaun]

Before you worry about more lift maybe think about
Lockers
Gears
Trimming
Winch
Lower t case gears
Undercarriage protection

 

[Jeepmedic46]

How is the Rough Country lift?

Well, is it working for you on pavement? Any issues at freeway speeds? Any harshness with speed bumps, driveways or pot holes? Your experience driving it will tell you more than we can tell you.

From my perspective the biggest issues with lifts have to do with their manners on pavement more than how they behave off road. A harsh ride or death wobble generally affects my quality of life more than does a percentage improvement in articulation.

Beyond the original design of the lift you also need to consider the condition of the joints. If this lift was just installed then it should all be in good condition, but if it has several tens of thousands of miles on it you need to be thinking about the bushings/rod ends/heim joints/etc.

Also note that with an XJ the track bar is probably the single most important (or at least prone to problem causing) component in your front suspension. If the previous owner has not already upgraded it to a double-shear mount then that should be your highest priority (yes, before bigger tires). And the next thing after that is the steering box spacer. Again, if the previous owner has not gotten rid of the weak factory spacer then you need to look into taking care of that. I think it is C-Rok who makes one of the better upgraded spacers/reinforcement plates that can be installed without welding. Core 4x4, SFR and Clayton all offer good options for track bar mounts. I think SFR may also have a steering box reinforcement plate.

The lift isn’t that old. He recently did some work on the tie rods. Truck does need a alignment. No death wobble. Will check to see if it has a steering box spacer.

 

[Jeepmedic46]

Before you worry about more lift maybe think about
Lockers
Gears
Trimming
Winch
Lower t case gears
Undercarriage protection

I have to put undercarriage protection on. Not sure what gears to put in. I was thinking 4:56 if it was 33” tires. Eventually better axles. Currently has the Dana 35 in the rear. Winch is on top of the list. Jeep does have a bumper winch on it. Going to put a rear bumper that will hold a high lift jack and 2 cans of fuel and of course the spare tire.

 

[Anak]

The lift isn’t that old. He recently did some work on the tie rods. Truck does need a alignment. No death wobble. Will check to see if it has a steering box spacer.

It certainly has a steering box spacer. The question is whether it is the factory one (weak, prone to breaking) or an aftermarket one. The factory one is a pot metal thing that may not be readily visible. An aftermarket one will be a steel plate with spacers welded to it, and if it is a good one it will extend a few inches down the "frame" and catch an extra hole through the "frame" rail. Note that the aftermarket ones will move the steering box farther away from the "frame" and this will change the position of the steering wheel. What this means is that if you are going to install a spacer you want to do it before an alignment, not after. Not that recentering the steering wheel is difficult, but if an alignment is in your future you might as well do things in the easiest order rather than have to perform one detail task twice.

 

[Smileyshaun]

Not sure what year yours is but a 98-99 xj front diff is a high pinion ,big axle joint , non vacuum disconnect and is a great swap . In the rear you can do a ford 8.8 out of a explorer ( not the ranger one it has smaller axle shafts ) . With those you could comfortably be locked at both ends on 33s and as long as you don’t drive like you stole it should last for years .

 

[Smileyshaun]

With some trimming and reworking of the inner fender wells 33s will fit no problem , honestly you could trim and drop to 3.5” of lift , it would ride and drive better . 4.5” is pushing the limits of a short arm suspension and can cause it to ride harsh and increase bump steer . Now this is all just my experience and opinion so take it with a grain of salt .

 

[Jeepmedic46]

With some trimming and reworking of the inner fender wells 33s will fit no problem , honestly you could trim and drop to 3.5” of lift , it would ride and drive better . 4.5” is pushing the limits of a short arm suspension and can cause it to ride harsh and increase bump steer . Now this is all just my experience and opinion so take it with a grain of salt .

Eventually going to go to a long arm suspension of the rough country.

 

[Jeepmedic46]

Not sure what year yours is but a 98-99 xj front diff is a high pinion ,big axle joint , non vacuum disconnect and is a great swap . In the rear you can do a ford 8.8 out of a explorer ( not the ranger one it has smaller axle shafts ) . With those you could comfortably be locked at both ends on 33s and as long as you don’t drive like you stole it should last for years .

It is a 2000. Thinking about a 8.8 axle. Trying to figure gears. 4:10 or 4:56.

 

[Smileyshaun]

If memory serves me right if you can find an explore with the tow package I think they come with 410 gears that would save you a bit of coin

 

[Smileyshaun]

Here’s my thought on it for tens if you can find an 88 would be a lot cheaper and then you could Nearly afford yourself a set 4:1 gears for your transfer case. If you’re going to long arm it tells me you’re going to want to do much more technical trails and the extra gearing from the transfer case will take you a lot further than the extra little bit of gearing by going with a 4.56

 

[Jeepmedic46]

Here’s my thought on it for tens if you can find an 88 would be a lot cheaper and then you could Nearly afford yourself a set 4:1 gears for your transfer case. If you’re going to long arm it tells me you’re going to want to do much more technical trails and the extra gearing from the transfer case will take you a lot further than the extra little bit of gearing by going with a 4.56

Not looking to do technical trails. I read that the long arm lift was easier on the truck. Do you think I should go with 4:56?

 

[Anak]

Not sure what year yours is but a 98-99 xj front diff is a high pinion ,big axle joint , non vacuum disconnect and is a great swap .

You can actually go all the way down to '96 to get that front axle.

 

[Smileyshaun]

You can actually go all the way down to '96 to get that front axle.

Your right I was thinking about the best motor years not the axles , my bad