Leveling Kit and Towing - Should I Do It?

[rking.1688]

I have a 2018 Ford Explorer 4x4 that I am definitely wanting to put rear Timbren bump stops on. Having traded it in from my truck, I plan to tow quite a bit. I’ve already done so a few times and it’s handled minor loads well. It is rated to tow 5,000 pounds, but the Timbren stops will help reduce the squat on the read end.

I would also like to put a leveling kit on it when it’s time to change tires. I’m concerned that bringing the front end up will cause the rear squat to come back even with the bump stops on it. Should I do a leveling kit, or if I want to add height do a lift kit all the way around to prevent the towing issues?

 

[Lindenwood]

I have a 2018 Ford Explorer 4x4 that I am definitely wanting to put rear Timbren bump stops on. Having traded it in from my truck, I plan to tow quite a bit. I’ve already done so a few times and it’s handled minor loads well. It is rated to tow 5,000 pounds, but the Timbren stops will help reduce the squat on the read end.

I would also like to put a leveling kit on it when it’s time to change tires. I’m concerned that bringing the front end up will cause the rear squat to come back even with the bump stops on it. Should I do a leveling kit, or if I want to add height do a lift kit all the way around to prevent the towing issues?

To answer your question, Yes, it will squat if you "level" the front...

Utilitarian vehicles are specifically designed with rake so that when you utilize them for utility purposes, they don't squat down with your headlights blinding everyone.


[rant]
Leveled trucks are fine for show, but when I see a truck rated to carry 4 digits of weight and tow thousands of pounds, but leans back every time you throw a cooler in the back, I tend to just roll my eyes.

Leveling kits are the equivalent of a giant open exhaust on a 100-horsepower economy car. You are taking an intentionally-designed set of features meant to meet specific goals (i.e. handle loads or, for the economy car, be efficient and comfortable), and negating them. Every time I see a truck or SUV with a leveling kit I basically see the truck version of the wanna-be Fast and Furious cars of yesteryear. [/rant]

 

[rking.1688]

Great point, so dive deeper on this. Would I be better off to not do the Timbren bump stops and instead do the lift kit instead of a leveling kit? It would do a 2” rear lift and 1.25” front lift. So it levels it some, but not as much. It may help with my towing squat as well as ground clearance all around? Trying to learn what the best thing to do would be.

It is more costly for me to run stock suspension with 255/60R18’s with the bump stops than it would be to lift it and get 265/60R18’s. My main concern is weight/towing capacity and handling over ground clearance, so let’s keep that in mind.

 

[Lindenwood]

To be clear, even a mild lift will increase the chances of trailer sway or other handling issues with operating at high speeds or max GCWR.

That said, I select lifts based on intended loads. So yes, a mild lift (like the 1.25F and 2" rear--which actually sounds like it adds more rake...?) would basically keep the same relative suspension characteristics. The main caveat is it geometrically stiffens the anti-sway bars. This is actually good for towing and will make it more stable, but at the cost of a slightly rougher ride and less off-road articulation.

Of note, I lifted my Rav4 2" front and over 5" in the rear to account for my daily tools and rear-mounted accessories. I lifted my previous 4Runner ~2.5" front and ~3.5" rear for the same reason (it ended up settling at around 1.75"f and 2.25"r total lift, due to 600lb of armor, winch, tools, and gear).

 

[Billiebob]

Great point, so dive deeper on this. Would I be better off to not do the Timbren bump stops and instead do the lift kit instead of a leveling kit? It would do a 2” rear lift and 1.25” front lift. So it levels it some, but not as much. It may help with my towing squat as well as ground clearance all around? Trying to learn what the best thing to do would be.

It is more costly for me to run stock suspension with 255/60R18’s with the bump stops than it would be to lift it and get 265/60R18’s. My main concern is weight/towing capacity and handling over ground clearance, so let’s keep that in mind.

why do you want the lift ?
the previous rant is building in my head on this new topic.

if you want level plus capability, put in the leveling kit plus add air bags.

As the rant forms, you want to run 60 series rubber on a lifted 4x4.... and call it an overlander.
Maybe start with that 4" straight pipe

Linden, we should go for a beer.....
and before I get reported..... my apologizes for starting to rant

 

[rking.1688]

why do you want the lift ?
the previous rant is building in my head on this new topic.

if you want level plus capability, put in the leveling kit plus add air bags.

As the rant forms, you want to run 60 series rubber on a lifted 4x4.... and call it an overlander.
Maybe start with that 4" straight pipe

Linden, we should go for a beer.....
and before I get reported..... my apologizes for starting to rant

Pardon me for wanting to try and learn about how to improve the capability of my vehicle to enjoy a hobby. However, I have a feeling that the size tires underneath it means nothing. I see plenty of pictures of people using fully capable Subaru’s tackling some of the hardest trails out there. Sure, I could go dump $80K in a used Land Cruiser with a Dometic fridge and a Tembo Tusk and call myself an overlander from the mall lot. But that’s not what I chose.

Instead, I have a vehicle I bought to have room for my kids. I want to be able to safely haul a camper, and safely navigate down trails or service roads my vehicle is capable of. Yea, it’s not going to be sitting on 35’s and headed to Moab. But it sure as hell can go to southern Ohio or Upstate New York on some forest service roads and give my kids an adventure.

 

[Lindenwood]

I dont have an issue with lifting a tow vehicle in principle. Obviously, if you lift it 12" I'd use caution towing max loads at full highway speeds. But, there is nothing wrong with wanting a multi-purpose tow rig.

But, leveling kits in particular remove lots of functionality, versus an actual lift that adds height to both the front and rear.

 

[Shakes355]

The nature of Timbrens pretty much allows for a fixed load height (they only compress so much) Depending on the install specifics for your suspension design, it should be possible to shim/space them higher/lower. If you want to level the front, the rear will still squat that fixed amount (most likely below "level").

As stated, "leveling" is mostly aesthetic. Tire clearance being secondary (and many times also aesthetic). If clearing rubber is your actual goal, find the minimum height increase needed in the front for your intended tire size first. If you only need an inch then it's easy to pop in a rear spring spacer and be on your way.

If you need 1.5-2, then you have a decision to make:
1) Add a rear lift and space your timbrens to the desired clearance. (Essentially allowing the rear to sag the same distance as without a lift)
2) Add a lift and AirBag helpers (for load leveling capabilities)
3) Add stiffer springs (and potentially a smaller lift spacer). The Higher spring rate will ride harsher unloaded, but not sag as much when towing. You can add timbrens as well if you find you still need them.

When I lifted my half ton, I "leveled" the front up 2.5" but instead of just adding a block/add-a-leaf in the rear (equipped with leaf springs) I installed a 2500hd leaf pack, Sumo Springs (similar to timbrens) and only needed a 1/2 block. Now when I haul, the rear sags less than half of what it did, and doesn't look utterly ridiculous even with close to max payload.

 

[Billiebob]

Pardon me for wanting to try and learn about how to improve the capability of my vehicle to enjoy a hobby. However, I have a feeling that the size tires underneath it means nothing. I see plenty of pictures of people using fully capable Subaru’s tackling some of the hardest trails out there. Sure, I could go dump $80K in a used Land Cruiser with a Dometic fridge and a Tembo Tusk and call myself an overlander from the mall lot. But that’s not what I chose.

Instead, I have a vehicle I bought to have room for my kids. I want to be able to safely haul a camper, and safely navigate down trails or service roads my vehicle is capable of. Yea, it’s not going to be sitting on 35’s and headed to Moab. But it sure as hell can go to southern Ohio or Upstate New York on some forest service roads and give my kids an adventure.

So you missed the fact I apologized for being distracted by previous rant. And missed the "level it and install air bags to keep it level loaded".

Sorry for being an idiot, I get sucked in way to easy by other guys with a sense of humour, apologies.

On the rubber thing, short side walls are a street thing, tall sidewalls increase compliance making the ride smoother off road. they flex better when following ruts making the ride smoother off road, they let you air down when you make the mistake of driving onto something soft and unforgiving. 60 series tires are for road cars, not off roaders, look at 75/80/85 series rubber if you are on forestry roads.

And I stand by, we should all go for a beer. The internet sucks.

With everything you have posted so far, don't bother with a lift, it will take away more than it will add to what you say you want to do.

 

[rking.1688]

So you missed the fact I apologized for being distracted by previous rant. And missed the "level it and install air bags to keep it level loaded".

Sorry for being an idiot, I get sucked in way to easy by other guys with a sense of humour, apologies.

On the rubber thing, short side walls are a street thing, tall sidewalls increase compliance making the ride smoother off road. they flex better when following ruts making the ride smoother off road, they let you air down when you make the mistake of driving onto something soft and unforgiving. 60 series tires are for road cars, not off roaders, look at 75/80/85 series rubber if you are on forestry roads.

And I stand by, we should all go for a beer. The internet sucks.

With everything you have posted so far, don't bother with a lift, it will take away more than it will add to what you say you want to do.

I guess I owe you an apology as well as I took it wrong. Every time I have ever tried to ask for advice in the hobby I get told my vehicle is incapable of being a true overland rig. I realize the boundaries of the vehicle and don’t plan on passing them.

That being said, running stock rims and suspension leave me with limited options. Stock I run 245/60R18’s. My other options include 265/60R18’s or 235/65R18’s. I was opting for the 265’s as it gives me a higher load rating, more tire options and a decent section width. The 235’s narrow up but do add some height. But as far as good A/T tires, it looks like Falken or Toyo are the only ones to make any.

 

[rking.1688]

I dont have an issue with lifting a tow vehicle in principle. Obviously, if you lift it 12" I'd use caution towing max loads at full highway speeds. But, there is nothing wrong with wanting a multi-purpose tow rig.

But, leveling kits in particular remove lots of functionality, versus an actual lift that adds height to both the front and rear.

Thank you for the advice. I’m definitely leaning away from the kit all together. I think I’m better off with quality tires, improving the front bumper ground clearance and weight handling as planned.

 

[RideFlyDiveJeep]

Overlanding doesn't mean that you have to go off road, more self sufficient or off the grid. "It doesn't matter what you drive", or ride (motorcycles). Ask anyone that has lifted a vehicle, so much changes and there is always some performance lost as a price for function or vanity. When I start towing I will check the squat from my fully loaded squaredrop and decide on airbags or not to support the added weight on the hitch. @rking.1688 Start a build thread and let us know how it goes.

 

[USStrongman]

Not discussed here - air bags. Especially for the rear. Adjustability to bring the rear height back to its correct height providing balance back to the chassis.