Jeep tires and rims on the trailer

[Mil T]

I'm building a trailer now. I have a dexter torsion axle. I am putting elec brakes on it. I am using my 17 inch Jeep wheels and tires that I took off when I put my 35's on. I am using an adaptor for 5 on 5 - 1.5 inches thick with a large hub hole. Yes they will not be hubcentric like the jeep wheels are made but I'm not worried that it is Lug carrying as the trailer should not be much more than 1500 lbs and the lugs are rated for much more that this.
Here is what I'm using.

2 Wheel Spacers Adapters 5x5 To 5x5 1.5" - 5x127 To 5x127 - Jeep JK 1/2" Stud | eBay

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I measured to know that I needed 1.5 inchs to set my wheel where I want it.
There are so many different adaptors you shouldn't have a problem finding what you need. If you need to widen the fender then do so but I don't think you'll need to. Good luck.

 

[m_lars]

I agree, same rims all around, maybe just change the whole axle out. Price it. It might be reasonable then you can sell the Lippert thing complete with rims and tires. Adapters tend to be outrageously priced. Changing the entire axle is a seamless solution.

Only if the wheels you want to use will fit over the trailer hub, which in the OP’s case they don’t.

 

[DeBo3359]

I haven’t Purchased the wheels and tires yet. I’m going to make sure that the hub adapter will work before I spend the money on wheels and tires. I have a buyer for the trailer wheels and tires. But I need to figure out if I can make everything work first. I found a company that will make and adapter to fit. But it’s a little steep.

 

[Mil T]

You don't need custom made adaptors. I guess I'm a little confused now. If you haven't bought wheels and tires yet then just buy the right wheel that will fit over the hub. You can also buy with different off sets to fit the axle. I"m not seeing a problem any longer now that you said you are buying new wheels and tires. No adaptor necessary.

 

[DeBo3359]

I would like to change the axel, but it would void the warranty. The trailer was purchased 5 months ago, and the warranty is 3 years. Any excuse to not warranty a problem and I understand they’ve had a few in the past.

 

[DeBo3359]

The wheels are going to be the same as the ones on my Jeep they just need to fit on the trailer. I want to be able to take the spare off the Jeep and put it on the trailer and if I’m in the middle of nowhere and had two trashed tired I can pull one off the trailer and still get out.

 

[Mil T]

I don't know why you need a new axle. You can either buy the adaptors that you need or new wheels and tires. With the adaptors you use your jeep wheels and tires on the trailer and you are able to interchange like you want to do with the spares etc. That is also what I am doing. The adaptors will stay on the axle hub and all you do is change the wheel and tire when you need to.
The adaptors are really the cheapest way to go.

 

[DeBo3359]

I think so too! I’m trying to prep for a long trip and trying to cover all the bases.

 

[DeBo3359]

Hey Guys! I have and update! I ordered a set of adapters to fit the 6 lug hubs on the NoBo and the 5 lug pattern for the Jeep. Did the install yesterday and fit my spare wheel from the Jeep on the trailer. Picked up 5 wheels and tires from a 2018 Jeep Wrangler and put two of them on the trailer. That gives me 2 extra spares to use on ether the trailer or the Jeep.

 

[DeBo3359]

 

[DeBo3359]

 

[Wildland1093]

That looks awesome! I have a NOBO 10.6 and may have to do this. Thanks for sharing.

 

[kwill]

Hey, you're missing a couple of lug nuts! I need to go the other way, i.e. adapters for Toyota wheels but it will throw them too far out from the fenders.

 

[Billiebob]

check with the manufacturer they might have hob options to fit your wheel and you might need to widen/narrow the track, any good machine/truck/spring shop should be able to do that. I'm doing the same thing this spring, going from 15 to 16 rims and I'll need to widen the axle 5" to make up fot the different offset. My local truck shop can do it in an hour, thankfully my truck/trailer have the same bolt pattern.

If push comes to shove.... just get a new axle built.

Push came to shove and I ordered a new 3500# axle with the track I needed, $207.00 CDN. Cheaper in USD, likely cheaper than spacers.

 

[m_lars]

Push came to shove and I ordered a new 3500# axle with the track I needed, $207.00 CDN. Cheaper in USD, likely cheaper than spacers.

It depends on the hub bore diameter of your chosen rim. If you are trying to use interchangeable rims on trailer and truck (like the OP or me), most truck rims have too small of a center bore to fit over trailer hubs. Hence the need for spacers even if the bolt pattern is right.

 

[Billiebob]

Only if the wheels you want to use will for the trailer hub, which in the OP’s case they don’t.

If you are building an axle.... match the bolt pattern, you are using factory rims, the hub/lug centric thing does not matter.
Pick the correct lug bolts to match the rim, either tapered for steel or shouldered for a mag.

 

[m_lars]

If you are building an axle.... match the freaking bolt pattern, you are using factory rims, the hub/lug centric thing does not matter.
Pick the correct lug bolts to match the rim, either tapered for steel or shouldered for a mag.
Not rocket science.

View attachment 141948

Which “factory” are your wheels coming out of? A trailer factory or an automotive factory?

 

[DeBo3359]

Hey, you're missing a couple of lug nuts! I need to go the other way, i.e. adapters for Toyota wheels but it will throw them too far out from the fenders.

 

[DeBo3359]

The 2 piece adapter is about 2” thick, but also the back space on the wheel could be different from the current wheel on the trailer. With the 2” I only have about 1/2” of space between the trailer and the tire.

 

[m_lars]

If you are building an axle.... match the freaking bolt pattern, you are using factory rims, the hub/lug centric thing does not matter.
Pick the correct lug bolts to match the rim, either tapered for steel or shouldered for a mag.
Not rocket science.

View attachment 141948

You didn't answer my previous question, so I will lay this out for you really simple. OK, eh?

It may not be rocket science, but it is science. A 66mm peg (trailer hub) will not fit through a 48mm hole (my wheel).

My Land Rover has a center hub bore of 72.6mm. The lip on the Land Rover hub is 19mm tall. The wheel has a 72.6mm bore that's about 38mm deep, then it narrows to 48mm where the center cap snaps in.

I just measured a 3500k axle a tractor supply. The hub center bore diameter was 66mm and was about 65mm tall. So the 66mm hub needs to protrude THROUGH the 48mm hole in the wheel 28mm so that the two mounting surfaces will meet. How will that fit? The answer is, it doesn't.

I needed about 75mm of spacers to get my wheel mounting face to be able to touch the hub mounting face without interference from the hub OR my bearing buddy.

Two OTHER caveats that throw a wrench into your statement...
1) find me a hub with 5 x 120 bolt pattern AND M14x1.5 studs
2) if you are using mag style lug nuts (which my Rover does) it is CRITICAL to have a hub centric mounting surface because there are no cones to self-center the wheel. is it close? Yes. Is there play? Yes.

Yes, it is possible that you might have a factory truck wheel with a center bore that fits over the trailer center bore (Chevy Silverado comes to mind), but that is not always the case. It was not the case for me or @DeBo3359