Iceco JP50 portable freezer issues when charging with DC power

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Antx227

Rank 0

Contributor II

68
Bay Area, CA, USA
First Name
Anthony
Last Name
Song
Setup:

Iceco JP50 Pro

Bluetti Elite 100 (1,024wh)

Renogy 200 watt solar panel

Hi everyone! I purchased these three items for a camping trip I just returned from over the weekend. I used the JP50 as a freezer and pre-cooled it at home to 0°F using AC power, which worked perfectly. It was packed with food and placed it in the insulated cover before loading it into my truck bed. It was then connected directly to my vehicle’s cigarette lighter socket.

After a non-stop two-hour drive, I arrived at my destination and noticed the freezer temperature had risen to 23°F, despite being set to MAX and the battery protection set to "L". The outside temperature was around 85°F, and the unit remained covered and insulated.

Assuming the issue might be with the car’s DC power, I switched the JP50 over to my power station—but the results were the same. Throughout the day, the temperature fluctuated between 19°F and 23°F while running on DC.

The following day, the performance didn’t improve. I was getting around 150 watts from my solar panels, but by the second morning, the Iceco had completely shut off.

This is the response from Iceco:
"Please note that the refrigerator can cool under AC (alternating current), but exhibits poor cooling under DC (direct current). The root cause is the different power supply capabilities, which prevent the compressor or refrigeration system from operating at full power. The AC power supply (household 220V) has sufficient power, the compressor can run at full speed, and the refrigerant circulation is fast. However, DC power sources (such as car 12V/24V) have low voltage and limited current, causing the compressor power to be "downshifted" and resulting in a significant decrease in cooling efficiency."

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I was really excited about this setup and even hyped it up to my friends—only to end up embarrassed when it didn’t work as expected. I’ve invested over $1,200 into this setup and can’t even get it to function properly. Am I doing something wrong? If there’s any other info I can provide to help troubleshoot, please let me know. Thank you so much in advance—I'm new to this and just trying to figure it all out.
 

smritte

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,827
Ontario California
First Name
Scott
Last Name
SMR
Member #

8846

Ham/GMRS Callsign
KO6BI
The first step in diagnoses is eliminate possibilities. You never just assume anything. Prove everything. What you cant prove you diagnose.

You proved the ac part worked and that also proves the fridge. You need to prove the DC part now.

The next part is going to be measuring current flow on DC. You also need to measure voltage at the unit on DC while its running. By doing this you see if there is a connection issue or a power issue. Its also possible the DC part of the fridge has an issue. I don't care how new it is, eliminate it by testing. Flawed new items is why there's warranties on things.

Without those numbers, any "advice" or "opinion" is just guessing and speculation.
I can say this, I have two fridges and both draw a ton of power when I use them as freezers. I have a dedicated high amp feed to them with no voltage loss at low temp.


"DC power sources (such as car 12V/24V) have low voltage and limited current, causing the compressor power to be "downshifted" and resulting in a significant decrease in cooling efficiency."

This is why they said this. Remember, the company gets complaints when people try to run these off a cig lighter socket. Supply them with hard data.