High output/ high amp alternators

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LowCountryBound

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....So today was the first time in 212,000 miles my Land Cruiser put me on the side of the road... turns out the alternator gave up! I’m thinking since I have to replace it anyway should I go ahead with a high output/ high amp alternator for a bit more... considering I’m adding more and more electric gadgets and a fridge and well stuff. Any one have any experience in this area? Any thoughts?
 

Road

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Road

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I see that you are off grid a lot does it help with charging your extras?
Oh and thanks BTW that was good info too!
.

Well, I have the trailer with me most of the time with solar and dual deep cycles of its own, so use that more than the van for USB and 12v needs around camp. When in camp, and even when towing actually, I let the trailer batteries keep my van's 12v fridge running through a Noco 12v Extension. When away from the trailer I plug the fridge into the van's 12v.

Though yes, the higher-output alternator helps a lot, though an alternator itself is not going to power your extras when sitting. It will charge the batteries and power the 12v system while running.

I'd think about adding a deep cycle to the mix, isolating it from your starting battery when the vehicle is not running so your fridge and other extras don't run down your starting battery. There are wayyyyy too many ways--some simple, many far too complex--to isolate them from each other. The simplest is just a battery isolator switch, which depends on you to remember to switch back and forth to either connect or disconnect from your starting battery.

My 145 alternator is going to come in especially handy to help charge--when underway--about 100ah of deep cycles as house batteries to the van when I add them. That would be much harder to do well with a much lower output alternator.

And you're welcome!
 

Billiebob

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Factory battery/alternator is built for factory loads. Add load add battery/alternator. It is that simple.
The extra load you already added might be a factor in the demise of your current alternator.

There is an engineered solution. No need to shoot craps.
 

MOAK

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Good words from Road there.. I’ve a Landcruiser as well, a solar set up, a house battery, a manual isolator switch, a fridge, a small freezer, a 12v shower pump and a power inverter to run our 110v water pump. When my alternator dropped down to charging only 12-12.5 volts it was time for a new one. If I didn’t have a solar array and depended upon the alternator as the sole charging system I would have invested in the kit necessary to retrofit an higher amp alternator. As things are, I replaced the old alternator with the stock replacement. If you have an 80 series, new alternators are not available, so be careful to purchase an expensive rebuild, better yet, rebuild shops are the best way to go. I have my old one on the shelf and it’s headed to the rebuild shop. Good luck !
 

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If you install a higher than stock output alternator, you will, at a minimum, need to upgrade the lead that goes from the alternator to your system. I run a Power Bastards through upgraded cable and an appropriate rated ANL fuse.
 
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LowCountryBound

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Thanks all! I’ve been looking into the dual battery setups and thinking hard about going that way, I went ahead and bought a booster(jump starter) for a just in case. I have solar for my Goal Zero etc. I was wondering about if I would have to upgrade any other wiring. Looks like I may need to. Well what’s another project right!!!
 
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Many newer vehicles have a 150 amp +/- alt, most of these are controlled by the ECM/BCM. Research the compatibility of a higher output unit before buying. I found with my GM product I was better off with a larger battery, stock was a H6 with 750 CCA to a H8 with 1K CCA.
 

ThundahBeagle

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Many newer vehicles have a 150 amp +/- alt, most of these are controlled by the ECM/BCM. Research the compatibility of a higher output unit before buying. I found with my GM product I was better off with a larger battery, stock was a H6 with 750 CCA to a H8 with 1K CCA.
I dont think I will need to buy a higher output alt. These 2014 GMC's ome with a tray ready for a second battery - a series 48, I beleive. Need some battery cables, an isolating relay plugged into a switch fused location in the engine bay block. An accessory block like the one on top of the starter battery, so I can connect lights and comms there. Maybe a sensor. I think that it.

There are a couple or three good tutorials, one of which is on this site using a Toyota 4Runner, a couple others on the Chevy Trucks forums, and some guy named Andy from upstate NY.

Cant wait to do mine, but I have a few "must-do's" to take care of first. I've been doing my 100,000 mile service piecemeal. Did the trans fluid, plugs and wires, took the step of doing the coolant. What I have left are transaxle and brake fluid changes and probably new serpentine and accessory belts. I'll get to it after I do those.
 

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If your going to search out something in a higher output, look for Hairpin alternators. Hairpin is a newish way to wind the coils inside.

Your standard alternator has three sets of windings and the hairpin has six to eight. What this means is more output with less heat and the most important part, a huge amount of power at idle.

The problem with getting your stock alternator design to put out more power is, it raises the RPM range where you start to make power. To overcome this, you run a smaller pulley to speed up your alternator. In the case of my TJ, I went from stock 80 amp(?) to 160 by just swapping out the internal windings. Even with the smaller pulley I didn't make power until about 800 RPM ( I idled at 650 ish). I got max output ay 2500 RPM and about 100 amp at 1500. I ran a throttle control to keep the rpm's at 1500 when winching. Some of the standard wound custom "high output" alternators out there wont make max power until 3500 rpm.

Unfortunately no one makes one for my Cruiser so I bought one from a Sequoia to adapt in when I get back from my next trip. The Sequoia can come with a 150 standard, will put out about 30 at idle and max at 2k with a smaller pulley. I picked up a Hairpin 250 amp the other day to add in. With the smaller pulley, it should put out 100-125 at idle and max at 1500 rpm. The only time the higher output will come in handy is winching. Other than that it will be running accessories at idle better.

Most vehicles today have higher output alternators stock and there's really no need to upgrade from that unless you start really modding. The average low battery draws around 40 amp (ish). If your car came with an 80 amp (my Cruiser) your fine with a couple of accessories and the car. You will be pulling about 50-60 amps total. Add in a second battery and your pushing the alternator hard, if the batteries are both low. As long as the alternator doesn't overheat your fine with the lower output. I added a solar panel to keep me topped off when im not driving. This has been my norm up until now.

Now, I have 2 batteries in my Cruiser and 1 in my trailer, a 50 qt fridge in the trailer and a 25 qt in the Cruiser. Think worse case in the 150 amp and up range. At night add in HID lights and I don't have a happy alternator heading home if I let my batteries run low. I have solar on both but, I camp all year round. Clouds, forest shade...means no help there.

Quite a few years ago, I had a small side business building custom high output alternators for people. Finding the higher output parts wasn't easy but I found someone to buy from that wasn't asking a huge amount of money for the parts. My average small case alternator put out around 150amp and my larger 250. I would spend fifty to eighty dollars in parts to upgrade your alternator and charge around 150-180 depending on what I paid for parts using your alternator. The aftermarket cost for the same thing was 400-700 dollars.

The hairpin design wasn't out yet so I made due. My supplier passed away and I was never able to find a supplier to sell me the parts at a reasonable rate. About eight or 10 years ago, I started seeing the hairpin design come out. The parts appear to be very popular with the custom guys and almost all the custom alternators are hairpin now. Again, cant find a supplier for the parts. It would be nice to start building again.
 
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