I don't think Hema sucks. It was updated on Dec 31st and I've been using it for about a year I think. I use it for other applications too, including trip planning, because it syncs with Hema Explorer Cloud (which is awesome) and even for hiking.
I have never used Gaia, but I will admit that it does look the same. The tracking feature is great, it tracks your elevation, speed and kilometres by minute basically. Using it with no connection is also great, just download the map section and be done with it.