One of my favorite places too. Only been once, did a 4 day backpacking trip in the back country. If you can get a permit and get out there for a day or so, do it. IMO some of the most amazing places out there are only accessible by foot or horseback.
Also, going to the sun road is worth braving the traffic. 2 lane road with traffic just creeping along, takes an hour to drive it. And it’s AWESOME. Amazing views.
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