Golden Eagle - 2005 Ford Excursion 4x4 V10 Gas

[kostkafex]

Our second kid arrived in April, and we got tired of dealing with the small back seat + 2 car seats in my 2018 GMC Canyon. So the search was on for a larger exploration/road trip vehicle. Then she said the magic words every Ford and large SUV enthusiast wants to hear, "What's the largest SUV we could buy?" So the search was on for a suitable Excursion. I wanted gas as I was tired of the diesel maintenance on my Canyon and not up for paying the "diesel tax", as a comparable diesel Excursion is a good 10-15K above a gas truck. We tend to have multiple trips to CA from AZ to visit family so the cargo capacity and interior room are both a premium, and we enjoy exploring Arizona backroads, forest roads, and whatnot. Once the boys are older I'm certain we'll get into actual wheeling, which isn't gonna happen in this rig.

This particular example is a 2005 Limited in Pueblo Gold over Medium Pebble Leather. This is the last year of production, and has merely 126k miles, and was a single-owner truck. I also really like "dust" colored vehicles so this fits all the bills. It is a 4x4 but with the non-LSD 3.73 so I'll need to remedy that in the future. Front captain chairs with 2nd and 3rd-row bench for 8 total passengers. Optioned with the rear-seat DVD entertainment package for all those Disney DVDs. The front suspension looks brand new and it drives nicely. I've already done a basic tune-up and interior clean-up.

The shortlist of plans are:

• Lighting - The OEM headlights are cloudy, so I plan to swap to the HD headlights (factory blackout) with an upgraded harness and bulbs. Then swap to LED fog lights (Diode Dynamics SS3 in the factory location).
• Visibility - Swap to 08+ towing mirrors, add an Android Auto-compatible head unit with front/rear cameras. These trucks have decent visibility but it's still massive, so cameras are a must.
• Capability - Shock upgrade and 33" all-terrain tires. It has nearly-new Michelin Defender LTX all-seasons, so I'll burn through those before diving into new tires. Not 100% sure on shocks, probably Bilstein 4600 or KYB Monomax (needs a 4" lift to use Bilstein 5100's, and the wife already thinks it sits high...)
• Performance - 5-star tunes for 87 with tow mode, remove choke-down y-pipe, straight-through muffler - The V10 is pretty potent as it sits, but a tune apparently really wakes it up and makes the trans operate a bit more efficiently. The factory y-pipe necks down significantly and is an easy fix for any muffler shop. Been watching a ton of Engine Masters on MTOD, and a straight-through produces the most power, and this thing too damn quiet.

 

[kostkafex]

Did about a 42-mile loop of dirt roads this past weekend, in an area just west of home called Camp Wood. Elevation ranges from 4500ft to 5900ft, so a good amount of climbing and descending. Mostly forest roads with a little bit of singletrack. The Excursion did fantastic, I'm really impressed with it being all stock and on all seasons. I realized that I didn't engage 4x4 high properly (needed to be rolling, not stopped) so it was in 2wd the entire time, which amazed me even more.

 

[kostkafex]

Installed a proper roof rack (the OEM one literally rubs the roof) using superstrut, as well as adding an awning. Cribbing on mb_01sc's notes from the ford-trucks.com forum.

I purchased everything from my local Home Depot and was able to put it all together in an hour or so for about $75 in materials. I also installed the NAPA Maxi Trac 8x8 Awning at the same time. Please remember to wear ear/eye/hand protection as you'll be working with sharp metal and power tools.

Parts:

• 1x 10' 14 gauge superstrut (half height, for the crossbars)
• 1x 2' 12 gauge superstrut (full height, for the risers)
• 1 pack 1/4” superstrut nuts (comes with 5 nuts, you only need 4)
• 1 pack 3/8" superstrut nuts (comes with 5 nuts, you only need 4)
• 4x 1/4"-20 1/2” bolts
• 4x 1/4" flat washers
• 4x 1/4" lock washers
• 4x 3/8"-16 1" bolts (longer needed if mounting the 14 gauge holes up)
• 8x 3/8" flat washer (4x for the crossrails to risers, 4 to make the 1/4 bolt surface larger)
• 4x 3/8" lock washers

Tools

• Angle grinder aka DeathWheel
• 4.5" Cutoff Wheel
• 4.5" Flap Disc
• Ruler/Tape measure
• Sharpie
• Pliers
• Socket set
• 13mm wrench (for awning)
• Moving blanket (to protect the roof when installing rails)

Steps:

1. Cut the 14-gauge into two 54" sections. You can see how the OEM rail compares to the 54" sections, and where step 2 needs to happen.
   
   
2. Section out the 3rd and 4th slots to form one long slot. This is due to the factory rack being 43" which doesn't line up with the superstrut slots.
   
   
3. Cut the 12-gauge superstrut into 4x 2" sections, centering a slot in each one.
4. Using your pliers, pull the springs off all the superstrut nuts.
   
   
5. If using the NAPA awning, drill out the 2nd hole from the long end of the L bracket with a 3/8" bit, as the bracket will engage the 3/8" bolts later.
   
   
6. If using the NAPA awning, loosely install the L bracket to the awning with the provided hardware.
7. Preassemble the 12-gauge 2" risers with the following hardware: 1/4-20 1/2" bolt, 1/4" lock washer, 1/4" flat washer, 3/8" flat washer. I felt the 3/8" washer was needed to ensure adequate contact with the rail.
   
   
8. Slide each riser/hardware into the OEM rails, ensure the superstrut nut is sideways to have adequate contact with the OEM rail, you can see how it's oriented in the pictures. Position the risers on the rail as you see fit and final tighten. Note that the riser width, with the U facing towards the front/back of the truck, fits the OEM rails like it was designed to.
   
   
9. Put a moving blanket down between the rails to avoid scratches, then put each cross rail into place.
   
   
10. Secure each cross rail with the 3/8" bolt, 3/8" lock washer, 3/8" flat washer, and 3/8" superstrut nut. Ensure the superstrut nut is positioned with the serrations upward. Note, if you wish to install the cross rails in the opposite orientation, longer bolts are required.
    
    
11. Once all cross rails have been installed, measure your distance between the rails, and set the hardware on the awning to the same distance. Awning hardware should be finger-tight for minor adjustments.
12. Slide the awning into the cross rail. It's surprisingly a nice fit and will support itself as you install the hardware. I flipped the included hardware over for the second bolt to the cross rail, and will most likely be trimming the hardware down.
    
    
13. Step back and admire your handy work
    

I'm curious how wind noise will be and how the cheap awning will stand up to the Arizona sun, so I'll report back after the first outing.

 

[kostkafex]

Did a test run of the awning at the local watering hole. It unpacks/repacks pretty easily and fits the size of the truck quite well (it's an 8'x8' awning for reference). Best of all, the wifey approves!

 

[kostkafex]

Re-routed the vent tubes for the differentials and transfer case to the engine bay and behind the taillight, respectively. Factory vents mount to the frame which is pretty low IMHO. The loop is for extra protection from water, kinda like a reverse p-trap on a sink. Also replaced the front bump stops as the factory ones were crumbling.

 

[Bellair]

New to the app and discussions. I started getting into over-landing a couple months ago when I picked up a 01 excursion 7.3l. I love the thing. I have only just started my camp kitchen project for it. So it’s not even close to being ready for camping yet. It’s also my daily driver so my main mods have been to improve those aspects of it.

 

[Bellair]

Installed a proper roof rack (the OEM one literally rubs the roof) using superstrut, as well as adding an awning. Cribbing on mb_01sc's notes from the ford-trucks.com forum.

I purchased everything from my local Home Depot and was able to put it all together in an hour or so for about $75 in materials. I also installed the NAPA Maxi Trac 8x8 Awning at the same time. Please remember to wear ear/eye/hand protection as you'll be working with sharp metal and power tools.

Parts:

• 1x 10' 14 gauge superstrut (half height, for the crossbars)
• 1x 2' 12 gauge superstrut (full height, for the risers)
• 1 pack 1/4” superstrut nuts (comes with 5 nuts, you only need 4)
• 1 pack 3/8" superstrut nuts (comes with 5 nuts, you only need 4)
• 4x 1/4"-20 1/2” bolts
• 4x 1/4" flat washers
• 4x 1/4" lock washers
• 4x 3/8"-16 1" bolts (longer needed if mounting the 14 gauge holes up)
• 8x 3/8" flat washer (4x for the crossrails to risers, 4 to make the 1/4 bolt surface larger)
• 4x 3/8" lock washers

Tools

• Angle grinder aka DeathWheel
• 4.5" Cutoff Wheel
• 4.5" Flap Disc
• Ruler/Tape measure
• Sharpie
• Pliers
• Socket set
• 13mm wrench (for awning)
• Moving blanket (to protect the roof when installing rails)

Steps:

1. Cut the 14-gauge into two 54" sections. You can see how the OEM rail compares to the 54" sections, and where step 2 needs to happen.
   View attachment 201620
   
2. Section out the 3rd and 4th slots to form one long slot. This is due to the factory rack being 43" which doesn't line up with the superstrut slots.
   View attachment 201622
   
3. Cut the 12-gauge superstrut into 4x 2" sections, centering a slot in each one.
4. Using your pliers, pull the springs off all the superstrut nuts.
   View attachment 201612
   
5. If using the NAPA awning, drill out the 2nd hole from the long end of the L bracket with a 3/8" bit, as the bracket will engage the 3/8" bolts later.
   View attachment 201610
   
6. If using the NAPA awning, loosely install the L bracket to the awning with the provided hardware.
7. Preassemble the 12-gauge 2" risers with the following hardware: 1/4-20 1/2" bolt, 1/4" lock washer, 1/4" flat washer, 3/8" flat washer. I felt the 3/8" washer was needed to ensure adequate contact with the rail.
   View attachment 201621
   
8. Slide each riser/hardware into the OEM rails, ensure the superstrut nut is sideways to have adequate contact with the OEM rail, you can see how it's oriented in the pictures. Position the risers on the rail as you see fit and final tighten. Note that the riser width, with the U facing towards the front/back of the truck, fits the OEM rails like it was designed to.
   View attachment 201616View attachment 201615
   
9. Put a moving blanket down between the rails to avoid scratches, then put each cross rail into place.
   View attachment 201619
   
10. Secure each cross rail with the 3/8" bolt, 3/8" lock washer, 3/8" flat washer, and 3/8" superstrut nut. Ensure the superstrut nut is positioned with the serrations upward. Note, if you wish to install the cross rails in the opposite orientation, longer bolts are required.
    View attachment 201623View attachment 201614
    
11. Once all cross rails have been installed, measure your distance between the rails, and set the hardware on the awning to the same distance. Awning hardware should be finger-tight for minor adjustments.
12. Slide the awning into the cross rail. It's surprisingly a nice fit and will support itself as you install the hardware. I flipped the included hardware over for the second bolt to the cross rail, and will most likely be trimming the hardware down.
    View attachment 201613View attachment 201617View attachment 201617
    
13. Step back and admire your handy work
    View attachment 201613

I'm curious how wind noise will be and how the cheap awning will stand up to the Arizona sun, so I'll report back after the first outing.

View attachment 201611

Why not use something like makerbeam or t track? They are aluminum and less prone to rust vs the Kindorf, They would be a little weaker but it would also have a lower profile?

 

[Bellair]

New to the app and discussions. I started getting into over-landing a couple months ago when I picked up a 01 excursion 7.3l. I love the thing. I have only just started my camp kitchen project for it. So it’s not even close to being ready for camping yet. It’s also my daily driver so my main mods have been to improve those aspects of it.

Took this shot this morning of the first mod I did. They are rock crawling wheel well led lights. I replaced the factory door lights with one each.

 

[kostkafex]

Why not use something like makerbeam or t track? They are aluminum and less prone to rust vs the Kindorf, They would be a little weaker but it would also have a lower profile?

Made with what was easily on hand. Not terribly worried about rust up here in the high desert of AZ. The total cost for the rack was under $70. Lower profile was not completely the goal as the awning has to clear the doors and curve of the roof.

 

[kostkafex]

Took this shot this morning of the first mod I did. They are rock crawling wheel well led lights. I replaced the factory door lights with one each.

FYI you can (and should) start your own thread to detail your build by clicking the "Post Thread" button at the top of the Full Sized Rigs forum. I'd like to keep this thread dedicated to my rig, thanks.

 

[Bellair]

Why not use something like makerbeam or t track? They are aluminum and less prone to rust vs the Kindorf, They would be a little weaker but it would also have a lower profile?

Made with what was easily on hand. Not terribly worried about rust up here in the high desert of AZ. The total cost for the rack was under $70. Lower profile was not completely the goal as the awning has to clear the doors and curve of the roof.

Ah ok. I’m in NY rust is always in my mind.

 

[Bellair]

Took this shot this morning of the first mod I did. They are rock crawling wheel well led lights. I replaced the factory door lights with one each.

FYI you can (and should) start your own thread to detail your build by clicking the "Post Thread" button at the top of the Full Sized Rigs forum. I'd like to keep this thread dedicated to my rig, thanks.

 

[Bellair]

Took this shot this morning of the first mod I did. They are rock crawling wheel well led lights. I replaced the factory door lights with one each.

FYI you can (and should) start your own thread to detail your build by clicking the "Post Thread" button at the top of the Full Sized Rigs forum. I'd like to keep this thread dedicated to my rig, thanks.

Ok good idea thanks

 

[kostkafex]

Noticed the hatch open height really bothered me, especially in the driveway, which has a bit of angle to it. After doing some research, it turns out Ford installed different open length struts based on RWD (high) vs 4X4 (low), and you can just swap to get the hatch open height you want. I went with Strong Arm 4139's and am very impressed. Height is at a better livable spot and the struts open the hatch with authority. Before/after shot below:

 

[kostkafex]

My parents and brother came into town for Labor Day weekend. We drove the Thumb Butte Loop, featuring my favorite vista, Sunset Point.

My dad smelled coolant at one point. We inspected the truck back home and sure enough, the upper plastic end tank is cracking. Replacement ordered:

The parents also brought me these, which I will most likely pay someone to put on, the install is a PITA

 

[kostkafex]

Blacked out the inner mesh of the factory grille, which was a tan plastic. Subtle, but looks better to me!

Attempted to install the new radiator, realized the top mount pin was broken in shipping... after we installed it! They are sending a new one.

 

[kostkafex]

New wheels and tires! General Grabber ATX in 285/75R16 and factory 5-spoke wheels painted matte grey

 

[KAIONE]

This is a dream build for me, I’ll be watching for sure, best of luck and can’t wait to see this already great build!

 

[kostkafex]

Ran Mount Union here in Prescott with a few buddies from the Overland Discord Channel. Ten miles of off-pavement fun. Weather was quite cold and windy, we saw snow up on the mountain for a lot of the run. Truck and new tires did fantastic. High-speed video below.

 

[kostkafex]

A still from @overlanddc's video of a little puddle we got to cross. Looks like I'm officially putting headlights on the top priority list!